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About Dragonsm

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    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family

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    Sioux Falls, SD

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  1. Ended up hitting the 5,000 mile mark from the last oil change over the weekend and decided it was a good time to change it. (Oil monitor was showing 27% left) Visited the local ford garage on Saturday morning and all day long...vehicles stacked in the oil lube lane with an average wait of 3 hours. Decided to tackle the project myself and other than realizing after I pulled the drain plug that my current oil pan holds somewhere between 9-10 quarts and trying to weasel it out from under the truck without spilling the 8 or so quarts...it wasn't to bad. The oil filter threw me for a loop. Much eas
  2. Airjer- Thanks for the response. In the last truck it was some sort of semi-synthetic (10w20)...and I believe that is what the factory motorcraft oil is. From what I read a bit more (as I find time) the onboard oil monitor system adjusts to driving style, towing, speed...etc....I'll keep an eye on it along with the actual mileage and follow the schedule as it is still under warranty.....focus on that 5,000 mile mark (trust the dealer I got the truck at as my family goes back 20+ years with them and the owners are neighbors of my parents) Thanks! Steve
  3. A couple of weeks ago, I traded in my 02 F150 on a low mileage 13 F150 with the 5.0. Despite all the interior upgrades, the truck is night and day difference from my old one. One thing I looked at in the manual was the oil change schedule. Manual says to use the oil monitor system (7500-10000 miles), the dealer I bought it from said 5-6000 miles and a local dealer when I stopped in with my wife's car stated every 3000 miles. For those that have this pickup, what do you do? My 02, I ran about 3500-4000 between changes while monitoring the oil level. This one, I'd think I'd at least be able to g
  4. Going off memory here, but it looks almost like a hose clamp strapped on the horizontal shaft in front of the motor...(where it pivots/tilts) I want to say it was on the left side while sitting in the boat looking back on the motor and you will need a short screwdriver to remove the mounting screw. The original piece that came with the motor were plastic and broke. If you do an internet search you will find plenty of stories and solutions...etc It may not be the culprit, but it is a common issue with the original part. Good Luck and hopefully that is what it is.
  5. When I purchased my boat a year ago, there was a small crack on the side of my counsel underneath the windshield...strictly cosmetic and can not get any bigger where it is at. I hardly even notice or see it...however the guy I bought it from (dealer) said he had a contact in Sioux Falls that welds plastic if I did want it fixed and might only run 100-150. Granted...Sioux Falls is a bit of a drive for you, but I would think there is someone up there in the Cities that also doesn't that kind of plastic welding stuff. Worth a check
  6. Sorry to hear about your motor....hopefully it turns out to be something small and inexpensive. If you don't mind, I'd be interested in knowing what the repair shop ends up finding out the issue is as it may be something I would possibly encounter in the future. Good Luck! Also, if your trim gauge ever stops working/reading correct trim....just hit me up....I ran into that issue with the motor shortly after I got it and after pulling my hair out over it...was finally able to track down the issue to the motor being a simple trim tab ring....original one was plastic...new one is metal (about
  7. Initially when I pulled the first plug in my motor, it was black with carbon. The others shared about the same look. If this is your first Yamaha product, from everything I have learned so far with an outboard and also a snowmobile of theirs....they LOVE NGK sparkplugs - LFR6A-11 for the F115. If you didn't get a manual with your boat, it can be easily had online in PDF format which will give you all the information. Steve
  8. I have the same year motor on a 17 1/2 superhawk and ran into similar issues last spring when I bought it. Prior owners left me with a full tank of old fuel and when I initially ran it, it had some hesitation and max RPM's were only about 5,000. Besides changing out the prop (went with the 17 pitch Yamaha OEM white Alum prop) I also changed all the plugs, and cleaned out the fuel filter mounted on the motor. Along with a half tank of fresh fuel, and some Yamaha ring free, the motor really woke up for me and now I am hitting 6,000 rpms. Night and day difference. The above stuff is pretty
  9. A few years back ran into this issue in our old house. After pulling the release on the garage door opener, ended up finding out I had a busted hinge (top hinge) on one side of the door that was binding with enough resistance to trip the garage door opener. Take a close look at all the hinges. Just ran into a busted hinge last weekend on the new house. While closing the door I heard a "click" that sounded weird and upon close inspection found it was partially cracked through. Proceeded to check all the rest of the hinges. Steve
  10. They are pretty easy (for the most part) to install and I have installed my own in the past two homes. In my first home, I installed the cheaper version (Honeywell HE220) that takes the flow thru air from the return air duct and in my current home installed the Honeywell HE360. (this model has an electric fan that pulls air in from the room eliminating the need for pulling air from the return air duct) Of the two I installed, I definitely like/prefer the HE360 and the directions I received with it walked me through it pretty good. Toughest part of the install was mounting/wiring an outlet f
  11. Well...a little update I did look at the invoice and it was rear 02 sensors that were replaced. None the less, the truck won't make it to this weekend to be looked at by an untrained eye. On my way into work this morning, the service engine soon light came back on and I gave them a call as I was driving. Dropping it back off around noonish today to give them today/tomorrow and at the very most Saturday to get it corrected. alright....here goes...."you were right" LOL Thanks again and I'll let you know what I find out. Steve
  12. Appreciate the heads up! Not sure if this local shop is good or not myself as it is the first time I have used it. Since relocating to SD (with no prior ties), thankfully I haven't ran into many repair issues, but they came recommended from neighbors. When I saw the 5 or 6 page list of potential causes for the codes, there was no way I was going to attempt with my mechanical (or lack their of) skills especially after what both Airjer and my cousin mentioned to me. You can bet if I pop a code, it'll be back at the same shop...(though I'll be cordial about it at first)......I do hope I have
  13. Airjer, I was hoping to get a response from you...and your response was about what I was expecting...(though not hoping for) I had talked to a relative of mine who is also a mechanic up around the grand forks area and he had given me the same initial thought due to the age of the motor along with the change in the temp. I did hear back from the local shop. They did hook it up on the smoke machine and thankfully didn't find any leaks. Ended up being the rear two O2 sensors that didn't work. Upon removal of the one, the threads rusted out so they need to weld in a new insert.
  14. Yesterday morning after letting the truck warm up, on my drive into work, service engine soon light came on...but I didn't notice much of a change to the engine. The light came on as I was decelerating on a downward incline to a stoplight. Reset the computer at work disconnecting the battery and figure I'd see if I could set the code off again.....nothing. Thought maybe it was due to the extreme change in cold weather? Again, this morning the truck popped the light again in the same exact spot as yesterday. The codes that I grabbed were P0171 and P0174. Truck has about 155,XXX miles on i
  15. If you are replacing the auger belt and the other one hasn't been changed, they aren't to expensive and just as easy to change them both. The friction disc RebelSS isn't to bad to change either if you ever get to that point.....unless of course the rims of your snowblower are seized onto the axle. Been down that road once, and I try and make it a habit each year to remove the rims from the axle and slap a little grease on the axle and rim so if I ever run into a friction disc issue or needing to change a tire on a rim (Yep, battled that one too with the seized rims) I don't have to fight it n
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