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About Selmer

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    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  1. Part of the reason I was a bit confused is that the neutral safety switch is not included in this wiring diagram for my motor that I found online. http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/60.jpg
  2. I would be the only one operating the motor - I frequently have visitors as well as my wife and two daughters (9&11) fishing with me. It was a very easy fix - I learned a LOT about my motor in the process - I also learned that I really need to own a service manual for my motor. I can fix 90% of the problems that arise with cars and small engines, I just haven't ever had to work on a marine engine before. And when it comes to electrical? I can chase it down with a test light, but beyond that I'm not real good.
  3. Turns out the cable end wasn't busted - just popped out of the hole in the shift lever it needed to be in. All hooked up and back in business!!!
  4. Okay, now I'm in business. This is the neutral safety switch - the cable that trips it is busted off. Do I replace the cable or bypass the switch, thus permitting it to start in gear? Opinions welcome. Bypassing it would take me about 30 seconds, replacing the cable looks like a PITA, but is it then unsafe to operate?
  5. Thanks to everyone who has helped with this. My first thought about the key switch being out is simply wrong. I hooked up the test light, I have power into and out of the switch. I tracked the hot wire out of the key switch to find out where it goes cold. I have located it - it's a very small switch on the port side of the engine mounted to the "wall" in front of the carburetors. Here are some photos - can anyone tell me what this is? When I turn the key and push the small button in on the side of this switch my starter kicks in like jackrabbit and turns over the motor, so I assume this switch is the problem. And it doesn't matter which position the transmission is in - it turns over when I push this button in. Thanks for the help! Switch pictures It mounts on the inside of this wall where you see the two empty holes on the upper left side of the wall.
  6. Replaced cable end - didn't fix it. I'm working now, but will try a few test light suggestions to eliminate what's going on. I need to check the transmission safety switch as well as try jumping around the starter solenoid to try to diagnose this...otherwise I found a dealer in a town I have to go to on Thursday that has my ignition that we can just plug in and find out if his works.
  7. So...where can I order the switch with wiring harness attached for this motor? I've looked on the web and the options are mind-boggling... I may give iboats.com a call tomorrow.
  8. I talked to a small engine mech friend and he told me to check the ohms on the positive side of the starter with the battery disconnected, which doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but I'm not great with wiring - mechanical, sure, wiring, not so much. In the process of disconnecting the battery I discovered that my positive cable had major corrosion - end loop snapped off in my hand very easily. I'm headed to get a new loop connection now and I'll hook it up and check things out again. I'm very suspicious of the switch - it has a lot of resistance in turning and is "mushy" - not snapping between positions positively like I expect and am used to.
  9. Well, no obvious signs of corrosion or busted wires on the switch. I'm learning that Mercury must sell lots of its parts as OEM only deals - the switch is obviously intended to come out as one package and plug into the wiring harness connected to the rest of the starter and motor setup - which is good, because I hate wiring stuff in. Now I just have to find a switch to try out and see if that is the problem...
  10. It's a tiller steer, key switch is on the wall of the stern compartment where my gas tank fits in. I'm looking for the same ignition switch, but not finding one online, just haven't looked in the right place yet. Because of the way it was acting up when I took it out of storage the switch is suspect for sure. I'm going to pull it after I take my daughters to school and see if there is any corrosion I can clean up or any obvious signs of the switch going bad.
  11. Oh - a couple of other thoughts. I don't get a "click" of any sort out of the starter motor. Is there a solenoid between the ignition and the starter that could have gone bad? The gear isn't popping up from the starter to engage, but I'm not sure if the starter on an outboard is wired and functions the same as on a car. The battery is good - brand new Interstate deep cycle that I bought less than a month ago, voltage readout on the sonar is good and the power tilt/trim has plenty of power to run the motor up and down - it's not the battery.
  12. I bought this motor used on a Lund last year - starts and runs like a top. When I got it out of storage this spring, everything was working fine, started up right away. I've had it out several times this spring and the only anomaly I noticed is that I got a high pitched alarm that I only ever heard before when starting the motor, then when I let off the key it would go away, kind of like the buzzer on a car ignition. This spring I had to carefully nudge the key back toward "off" to make the high pitch go away. Now - current problem. I took it for a short weekend to NE SD. Everything worked fine, still had to nudge key backward toward "off" to eliminate the high pitch. Then, as I was coming to the launch for the final time I had to stop and try one more spot near the launch. When I went to fire it up again, nothing. No alarm. No starter engagement. The only thing the key would do is choke the motor when I pushed on it, but from what I can see that is a mechanical connection rather than an electric one. I took the covers off the motor and got out the emergency starter rope, placed the key in "run" position and it fired up like a top and ran in fine. I can still start and run the motor fine with the starter rope, but I obviously want to fix this. Where do I start? I'm a pretty decent wrench monkey, but have very little experience with diagnosing outboard motor issues. If I can figure out what is going on, I'm sure I can repair it, but I need some help. What do you think? My first thought was that the starter motor had "stuck" brushes. Tapped it with the dead blow hammer, spun the motor with the nut on top of the starter - it spins free, but still wouldn't fire with the key. My next thought is the safety switch on the transmission, but before this event when I had the motor in gear and tried to start it I would still have the buzzer from the ignition switch. So my last thought is that my ignition switch is shot, but I don't know how to test that. Thanks for the help! Selmer
  13. Selmer

    Venison Ham (smoked)

    A MUCH less expensive option for the same result is as follows. This is our basic dry cure for meat recipe: 5 lb. Morton Tenderquick 2 c. brown sugar 2 T garlic powder (1 T for bacon) 2 T onion powder (1 T for bacon) ½ c. black pepper (1/4 c for bacon) Combine and mix thoroughly. Use for dry rubbing meat to cure for smoking. Keeps almost indefinitely. For slab bacon, thoroughly rub cure into meat, leaving some on the outside after a good rubbing. Cure in sealed Ziplocs for 50-72 hours (depending on the thickness of the belly), turning over the bags morning, noon, and night. Thinner cuts need less cure than thick cuts, 60 hours is usually about perfect, thicker bellies go 68-72 hours, especially if the belly comes from an heirloom hog with thick bellies. Rinse and soak in clear water for 30 minutes. Dust with brown sugar before smoking and smoke on low heat (200, give or take 20 degrees) for 3-6 hours. For cured venison, split roasts into sections no more than 3 inches thick. Rub thoroughly, leaving some cure on the outside. Seal in Ziploc, allow to cure for 6 days, turning twice per day. Rinse and soak in cold water for 45 minutes. Smoke on 7th day with hardwood for 4-6 hours at 225 degrees to cook to rare/medium rare. I’ve used hickory, apple, plum, and cherry with good results. Curing longer doesn’t hurt anything, just rinse well. I haven't used a glaze on the venison, but after seeing those pics, I'm going to next time I do the venison! We slice it thin on an old commercial slicer and package for cold meat sandwiches. The in-laws use it for the dried beef/cream cheese/dill pickle appetizers.
  14. Selmer

    beagles for pheasants/grouse.

    Keep a beeper on him and give it a run. If he's a hunter, he'll run and run and run. Could be a unique hunting partner!
  15. Selmer

    Over-harvest bust on Lac Qui Parle yesterday

    The boat in the background is not theirs - they were fishing from shore.