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About bassn1

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    HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 04/21/1961

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  1. You need to shake or stir that bottle to get it mixed. Are you using the microwave to heat it? The plastic looks like milk before it's heated. Then it will turn into a clear jell, then a clear liquid.It needs to pour like thin pancake surup. The best temp is between 275-300. You can use a candy thermometer to get the temp.Stir every 30 seconds or so to keep it mixed while your heating it. You'll get some good pours before it starts to cool. Then just zap it in the micro for 20-30 seconds and start pouring again. Use a PYREX cup. Anything else will tend to explode in the micro or in your hand when you touch it.
  2. Nice work,I really like the photo-finish. I haven't attempted a swim bait yet but it is on my "to do" list. See ya on the TU site.
  3. Check out Jans Netcraft or Barlows Tackle. They have everything you need.They even have a few "how to's" for lure making. As for wire sizes for bass I use .031-.035 for 1/4 - 3/8oz heads and .041 for 1/2-1oz heads. You can make your own frames by pounding a few nails in your workbench and bending the wire around the nails.
  4. I took notes from both sites and I plan on practicing on a few wood dowels before I attempt to ruin a good crank blank. As soon as I get some down time on the "truck project" I'll be hard at it.
  5. I found green pumkin at Sportsmans Warehouse and at Fleet Farm. If your going to use spray paint (rattle can), make sure it's an apliance enamel.If you use any other spray, topcoat it with epoxy. Most paint will react with plastic and you'll have a gooey mess.
  6. Use powder paint by CS coatings, you can buy it in any everyware. If you really want to get creative, get an airbrush and topcoat with epoxy. Both meathods work and last forever. In this part of the country you'll lose the jig to a toothy critter before the jig even chips !!
  7. Took these last weekend at my friends farm in N.Dakota. So much history just laying around the fields.
  8. bassn1

    Am I crazy?

    I wouldn't mind bustin' my way out to open water but......... my lake is froze over shore to shore!!!!
  9. It would be interesting to see if the "eyes" like them bass colors over the traditional Rap colors. Rodmaker, giving out contact info is for sponsors.
  10. Weight may or may not be needed Depending on what type of wood/plastic is used. I myself would use some type of ballast toward the back of the bait for a nose up attitude. Ballast also makes the bait land "hooks down". Once you build your bait, try wrapping lead core solder or just lead around the hooks to see if you need weight or not. Once you know the correct ammount, drill and add this to the belly, seal and paint.For a muskie bait I would also use a "thru-wire" design, less chance for the tow and screw eyes to pull out.
  11. Rodmaker I haven't tried to do repaints but I don't think it would be to hard. The only thing about a repaint is if the new finish/paint is thicker or heavier it could effect the original action. Are the baits plastic or wood? Is the wood cracked or waterlogged? Is the paint comming off from hook rash? Sometimes your ugliest, beat up, faded , chiped paint lures catch the most fish just because the lure has the right action.
  12. I started pouring plastics and lead lures a few years back (learned the molding process). A friend of mine kicked my butt on Le Homme Du in tourney's for years with his secret crankbait. They stopped making that crank and when he was down to his last one he asked me if I could make one for him. I never made one before so I did a little research and found a HSOforum or two that explained how. I made him 3 just for giving up the "secret". Long story short, He wants 6 more! It's alot of fun and it keeps me busy out in the shop in the winter. I'm still learning and trying to improve with everyone I make. I don't make Raps because it's easier just to buy one and get the real thing. Word of caution for anyone wanting to make there own....It's addicting!!
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