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Iron Cowboy

2003 Yamaha 90 question

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I bought a new to me boat with a 2003 Yam 90 2-stroke. can anyone familiar with this unit tell me if it has a choke or primer? guy that sold it said he just turns it over for a few seconds,stops, trys again and it fires right up. it did work but im thinking there has top be a better process. is there an auto primer or choke on the inside somewhere? cant find a choke knob anywhere. any help is appreciated.

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I have this same motor, and no it isn't fuel injected. The fuel line coming going into the motor should have a primer bulb on it. Make sure you squeeze it untill it is hard everytime you head out on the lake. Once the motor has started, you shouldn't have to do it again. As for the choke, on mine (and most I imagine), you have to push the key in as you turn it. It won't go in a long ways, but you press it in as you crank it over. With mine, I only have to crank for maybe 3 seconds and it starts right up. After the first start, it starts even easier.

If you want more info, I went to Yamaha HSOforum and downloaded the owner's manual. That way if I have more questions, I just refer back to the manual.

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great, thanks faster! one more thing, do you give it some throttle with the little "throttle only" lever that sits there to use when not in gear or leave it be?

also if its not to much trouble how do you winterize it? I know about the lower unit and that but my old I.O I ran rv antifreeze thru with a cuff and hose till it came out the back discharge, I'm guessing this is the same? thanks again.

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ooopsie, forgot about the choke being on the key. Has it been that long already that I forgot how to run the boat? lol

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Which 2003 90 HP? 2 Stroke or 4 Stroke?

The 2 Stroke has a keyswitch operated choke.

The 4 stroke has a thermostatically controlled choke - it only chokes it when the temp sensor says it can.

You can use the throttle only lever... that'll help it start a bit sooner than just cranking and choking, if applicable.

As far as how to winterize, check out this thread: Winterizing

marine_man

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do you give it some throttle with the little "throttle only" lever that sits there to use when not in gear or leave it be? also if its not to much trouble how do you winterize it? I know about the lower unit and that but my old I.O I ran rv antifreeze thru with a cuff and hose till it came out the back discharge, I'm guessing this is the same? thanks again.

Yes, at first start I try to get the RPMs up a bit to get it warmed up and cleaned out. after the first time, it isn't such a big deal. As for winterizing, I just change the lower unit, and then fog the carbs until it almost dies, then pull the plugs and fog each cylinder. That's all I do and I haven't had any problems yet. I don't do anything with antifreeze. During the winter, always store the motor in the lower position and water should drain out.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Couple things to keep in mind. Various wheels will require varying torque settings and it should be ON the wheel, or in the owners manual. If you are in a shop make a point of TELLING them what torque settings you want used on your tires/wheels. And of course big difference if you have steel or cast aluminum wheels.  Years back, believe it or no, some Dodge trucks would tighten turning LEFT and then on the other side they would tighten turning RIGHT!  You need not ask me how I know this but it all took place in the middle of the Yukon Territory.
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    • those things are poorly equipped to deal with a MN winter.   
    • I have them periodically.   They look like the world's biggest rat.    And they poop all over my low platform feeder.   
    • Long standing problem.   I recall breaking a 3/4 craftsman socket trying to get a tire off a 68 vw in the 70's.   I don't know if retorqueing them upon returning from the tire shop is good enough or not.  
    • Thanks guys, it would all be during day light and only a couple miles the rest in the ditch. Good idea wanderer on the reflectors. No damage would be done so I think it would be alright.
    • If the sled is not doing any damage to the groomed trail (which I can't imagine it would) and if you are towing it in a safe matter, I doubt that anybody would even care. 
    •   Um, isn't that the reason for using a Torque stick so that the lugs are Not "over torqued" just by the wrench?    
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