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goose89

Leadcore leader question

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How long of a leader are most using on Minnesota lakes. I understand 100-150' mono leaders are used in gin clear Great Lakes situations. But in typical Minnesota lake (Secchi 3-6') how long a leader / what type of line are most using.

I first went with 50' of 10#XT, but didn't like the lack of feel with that set-up. I've now got 50' 10/4 Fireline leaders, and like the feel.

Next question is, say I'm running 4 colors of lead at "x" mph and "z" ft down, with 50' 4/10 leader. Do you look at a depth curve for given lure at 50' and add it to "z" for total depth?? Not much is said in most articles.

Alot of different opinions on leader lengths and materials.

I'm thinking of going with a 30' Flouro leader this year (clear and low-stretch). Any input / experiences appreciated in advance.

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I keep my leads relatively short. 8-10 feet of mono or floro seems to work well. This allows the lure to run naturally and you avoid some of the excessive dive issues and can stick to the 5 feet per color rule. Running a 5o foot lead I would calculate the dive curve for the lure with 50 feet out and add the depth with the 4 colors of leadcore like you said.

Tunrevir~

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I agree with tunrevir, I just use a 10 foot leader of either Flouro if the water is clear but if the water is dirty I will switch to 10/4 Smoke.

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I used to run short leaders, like 10-15 feet. But in the last few years I've changed to running longer leaders, 50-60 feet for clear lakes. It took me a long time to make this switch but I think it works in clear water.

I use flourocarbon for most of my leaders. The flouro is invisible of course, and has almost as good of feel as fireline.

Tunrevir has it right for the depth calcs, figure out the dive curve for the 50-60 feet of leader, and add 5 feet for every color of lead.

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I agree with all that the leader should be shortened overall, but one thing that was not mentioned was speed. Since you will be putting out more core than before, remember that leadcore is speed sensitive and the slower you go the more it will sink, requiring less core out, and vice versa for the faster you go. 4' out per 1' sink would work for 2 mph and about 10' per 1' sink at 3 mph (all for #18 leadcore). Just some things to also keep in mind when trolling.

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I like to run a longer leader, 50' or more. I don't like feeding line by hand, a long leader provides some good drag to get it rolling quicker.

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HOW DO YOU GUYS MOSTLY TIE YOUR LEADCORE TO YOUR LEADERS? A BLOOD KNOT? OR MAYBE A SMALL SWIVEL? I HAVE NEVER USED A BLOOD KNOT BUT I DO HAVE THE INSTRUCTIONS AT HOME.

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What kind of line do you use for a backer? would it be the same as the leader? Like 10lb fireline for leader and backer? And what size of leadcore is appropriate? Does larger lb test lead dive deeper?

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I use a small Spro swivel 30# test and secure that to my leadcore with an improved cinch knot. Next is the easy part. I pre-tie numerous leaders and attach a #2 snap to one end and on the other end I tie a loop knot. I use crystal Fireline-14# test. To secure the snap I use a double palomar knot and I run the loop twice before tightening. As for storage use an old line spool, tape one snap end of the leader to the spool and wind it on, now while the loopknot is exposed take your next leader with the snap end and attach to the loop continue this process with as many leaders as you like. I have never had one of these leaders fail at the knot. Good luck.

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The core I use is Redicore, which already had a backer connected to it. I believe it's mono, then the core is attached to that. I always use Gamma #10 line as my leader because of the unforgiving no-stretch characteristics of the core itself. I think of the somewhat stretchy copolymer as a cushion in a sense. Also, I must add to watch your drag settings on your reel. I learned the hard way when I was first starting out using core. Keep the drag just tight enough to not allow line to go out, but still able to set the hook when the fish strikes. Takes some fine tuning, but well worth the effort. And no, as the diameter of the leadcore gets bigger, it does not dive faster, it will actually dive less. Think of it in the same terms as mono when trolling. 10# test will dive deeper than 20# test will with the same amount of line out. Smaller diameters cut deeper and faster than a larger diameter will because of water resistance factors.

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I use 27# test lead core and Pline CFX 12# for my leader material.Im usually using a 15ft leader fastened with two way swivel.For me the heavier line works great,If I hit bottom and snag,its the crankbait that is lost and not the line that is broken.Ive never had an issue with the short leaders affecting the bite clear water or not.The majority of the diving curves on cranks trolled with lead is all about speed.If you use both shallow runners or deep divers you have to figure out the diving curves for each based on the speed you troll them.After youve figured that stuff out then you can deal with what to do on turns that you make and sudden shifts in depth.Slovene makes an excellent point about the drag settings.I use linecounter reels that have a clicker and loosen the drag until just the clicker is keeping the line from slipping,if I turn to fast or go faster than usual the clicker lets me know.

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high five,

Question...... Do you leave a loop on the end of the lead core and then snap into that loop with the swivel from the leader? I may have missed it.

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Sorry for the late reply but I was out of town. Attach the leadcore directly to the swivel. Strip out about 5 inches of lead and secure to the swivel with an improved clinch knot. Hope this helps.

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I can't do the swivel thing, yet. Something about reeling them through line guides under tension make me uneasy. I've had good luck with a Willis (mono) or Double Willis (Fireline) knot for connecting lead to leader. Good luck.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
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    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
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