Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
finspat

Putting electric start on my Outboard.

6 posts in this topic

Ok, heres the skinny

I bought this tiller 20 horse outboard (Johnson)

In 1989, still runs like a charm.

I have taken care of this motor.

I hate to sell it and get another motor

you never know what you may get.

So I have been told I could put a starter on it

and I am good to go.

Do I have to put an alternator on as well?

So my friends what do you think.

The reason for electric start is my shoulder get really sore

from pulling the #^&*##@ Rope.

Has any one done this before or did they

just buy another motor?

like to hear your thoughts

Fins

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't have to put a stator and rectifier on it, but you will have to charge your battery after every or every other outing, depending on how many times you start your motor.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Marin_man

Is it a big hassle to put the stator and rectifier on it?

Whats the cost to make my motor electric start?

Not really into lugging my battery around either.

Thanks for the quik response

much appriciated

Fins

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If my memory serves me correctly, you're looking at about $450 for the kit. Then you still need cables, harness, battery, stator, rectifier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Mercury has electric start and no alternator. I bought an onboard charger and just plug it in after every trip. Not sure about installing the starter though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Thanks to Ufatz, I didn't have to make a wasted trip to my mailbox today...
    • YES, they DO shut down if not enough oxygen. Been dealing with that one for almost 15  years of teaching this. They DO NOT have a CO shutoff, that's what I'm trying to hammer into peoples heads. That's what all thermocouples do, shut the gas valve.  A thermocouple is a safety device for some gas appliances. One end of the thermocouple is heated by a pilot flame, and the other end is connected to a gas valve. As long as the pilot light stays lit, the thermocouple holds the gas valve open and lets gas flow to the main burner of the appliance. The sensor on the end of the thermocouple is heated by the flame of the pilot light. The heat generated is converted into micro volts of electricity. This Electricity is enough to open a tiny magnet in the gas valve, and allow the gas to flow. If the pilot light was to blow out, then the sensor on the Thermocouple cools, and then closes the gas valve to the burner. This ensures that when the pilot flame goes out, Gas cannot escape from the pilot. It is automatically shut down.  That's how it works....if there isn't enough O to support the pilot, you might as well hang it up. They've been petitioned to remove their "low oxygen shut off" from their labeling. Best they did was re-word it. 
    • I believe the v-fronts help, but there is always the vacuum on the flat back-end.  I have had both am always surprised by what I'd call the rear drag.
    • Do buddy heaters even have a low oxygen / CO shut off?  My understanding is they have a thermocouple that kills the gas flow if it's not lit, but it will burn as long as there is a pilot light and enough O2 for combustion, which is probably less O2 than what it would take to make you feel like dump.  And even if O2 levels are high, CO can still be off the chart.   Do people get a lot of alarms going off?  Seems like there is going to be CO in my porty just from the buddy heater going even if the conc is well below a danger level.  I figured those things were calibrated for use in places like your house which should be right at about 0ppm, unless it's right next to the furnace.   In a related story, my MIL was house sitting for a friend when the CO detector went off.  She opened some windows and went outside but started getting a headache, naseous, light headed, weak, dizzy, all sorts of symptoms.  Called 911.  Fire department rolled out, ambulance sent.... And the detector was alarming because the battery was almost dead.  CO levels were at 0ppm.    
    • I'll wait patiently on memorial day, veteran's day, the 4th of July, 9/11, Xmas, new years, labor day, or any of the other federally recognized holidays for you to throw up another post with no point.
    • Thinking about building a new Fish House.   Does a "V" Front really make that big of a difference in towing?   Campers aren't "V" front so just wondering. I think I could utilize space a lot better with a regular square front.
    • Did you ever weigh the house?
    • Thanks for the reminder.  The trash goes to the road tonight for tomorrow's pick up.  I'll drag it down the driveway on my way to the lake.    
    • Had to bring the wife back last night anyway but a 3 day run woulda been nice.  I got to play with and feed our granddaughter, get ice gear thawed out and recharge batteries, making lunch and gonna head out for the evening bite.   I have a dream!
    • Thanks Rebelss. You just can't emphasize the importance of a C/O alarm especially with the new fish  houses being built so tight. My service man just ran into a B/O furnace on a no heat after hours call.  Home owner was very lucky and of course no alarm.
  • Our Sponsors