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Boat Summerizing


marine_man

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If you are at all handy it is pretty easy. Make sure you have a good manual and all the parts, adhesives, etc before you start.

I did mine last fall, it took a couple of hours but was just a matter of following instructions.

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So I seem someone mention changing the fuel line and buld. Is this the same line that is attached to the bulb? Can this cause performance issues? I was having problems last year with my motor seeming to bog down when I was at high speeds or taking off at times. The RPM's would spike also.

I've never changed the fuses on my boat either. I'm the 3rd owner and I took off the panel where the steering wheel is and it was a wiring nightmare that I didn't want to mess with. Some navigation lights don't work and so I've never been on the lake late or at night.

My gas gauges don't work either and I thought I would check out the floats on the 2 fuel tanks but the darn things are tucked so far back I can't really get at them.

Man this just bums me out thinking how many things are wrong.

Where is a good place to buy say fuses and fuel line and pumps in the buffalo area?

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Yes the fuel line and bulb is rubber which will over time break down because of the sun and the gasoline. This allows air to seep in to the line and eliminate the vacuum and putting air into the gas mixture when fed to the engine.

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Sounds like you might have a slipping hub in your prop. That is a device made of rubber or plastic that is in the prop so if you hit something you won't wreck the gears in the lower unit. They can go bad and start slipping in normal use. A prop repair place can fix it, unless it is one of the merc props with torque flow, and then you just put a new one in yourself.

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Does anyone know of a place that repairs hubs near buffalo? I thought I remember seeing a guy in Montrose that had a sign that said Prop repair but I dont see his number online anywhere.

If this would be my problem I will be soooo happy!!!

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Yeah I was looking at props and the SS type are like $225 smirk

I don't think I should buy a aluminum type in case I hit something with it.

When you hit something, probably spins the hub and you need to get it fixed anyway.

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The motor and prop manufacturers say that the hub will protect the lower unit, and that is not a valid reason to choose AL over SS.

I agree.

The decision to go SS is mainly a performance gain and shouldn't be for durability.

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What kind of motor? I had similar symptoms last year, got my injectors sent out and cleaned and it my motor has never run better. I don't think it ever ran right now after getting it back. I bought this boat used so I thought 40mph was pretty good. Now I can get closer to 50 in the right conditions.

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Here is a prevent maint tip for those with alum block motors.

When my new boat was 3 years old, I decided to put new spark plugs in. To my suprise, one of the plug almost siezed up in the threads. Yes, I run Yamaha Ring Free now and then to reduce carbon buildup but after I got the lower plug out, I had to clean the threads up as they were not the best after removing the lower plug. The top 3 were fine.

Now, every spring, I pull each plug and put new anti sieze on the threads so every year now, all the plugs remove nicely.

If I were to have let those plugs go for 6-7 years with no ring free added into the fuel, my bet is the lower plug would not come out without ruining the threads in the block.

So, would not hurt to remove the plugs if you can and wipe them down with anti sieze, one never knows.

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