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fasternu

Wiring in courtesy lights

11 posts in this topic

Hey everyone, I finally got the boat out of storage and going to work getting it ready. I have a 2005 Crestliner Sport Angler and want to install 2 sets of LED Rope lights (one on each side), and a regular flush mount light between the consoles. The lights themselves are pretty easy to install, but I am having a problem figuring out where to wire them to. I have a courtesy switch that lights up when you flip it, and when I took the panel out it runs to a circuit breaker. The problem I have is I can't get power if I go from one side of the switch to the other, and I don't get power going from one side of the breaker to the other, where I figured I would need to run the wires.

I have a limited experience with wiring, I just know I need a power and a ground. There has to be something easy I'm missing. The circuit has never been used that I know of, as it has no lights in it already.

The other solution is to install the lights and take it in to a boat shop to get them hooked up and working. Any suggestions? Maybe Boat Fixer or MarineMan can help. Thanks in Advance.

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Sounds like you are missing your ground in both instances. One side of the fuse and switch is tied to the positive terminal of the battery, the other goes to the device. You should have a grounding block or bar to tie to.

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Could possibly be a grounding issue, although maybe a bad switch? Do you read voltage from the ground to either side of the switch?

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I know the switch is good. I think I found the grounding bar. So I will hook one wire to the grounding bar, the other to the circuit breaker?

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Yeah that should be it. Good luck.

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Wire the grounds to the ground bar and the positves to the fuse block. The main power should be going to the breaker, then to the switch, then to the fuse block where it will go through a fuse (thats where you make your connection) and to your lights.

The reason you showed no power was because you were only on the positive side of the circuit. If you clip your test light to a ground then go to the terminals on the switch or breaker with the other end, you should have 12 volts.

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Where would the fuse block be? I looked all over under the console and couldn't find anything. There is a fuse just off the battery, then underneath all I see is a ground block and a wiring harness that clicks together, didn't look like fuses to me. Wouldn't a circuit breaker take the place of a fuse?

When I ran my test light from the ground block to the circuit or switch, I either had nothing, or constant.

Man, boatfixer, I wish I was just a little closer to you, or needed to visit the mother in law, I would stop by and give you some business!

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It depends on whether there is an individual breaker for every accy or not, I think I read it wrong, never the less, its something I'd have to have look at. It doesnt sound difficult at all.

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Yes, it has individual breakers for everything. Would I want to hook the ground to the bar, and the positive to the breaker? And, would it matter where on the ground bar to hook to?

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Doesn't matter where on the ground bar you hook the negative wire. There should be a wire from the positive terminal on the battery to one side of the breaker. Then, the positive wire on whatever accessory you want to hook up attaches to the other side of the breaker.

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I drew up a crude diagram. It'll be easier to visualize. If your switch is lighted, you will also need to run a ground wire from the switch to the ground block.

untitled-1.jpg

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

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      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

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      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

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      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
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      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

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