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KTapper

Question for you Bowfishing guys

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Looking to get into the sport I have looked around and one of my choices are the AMS Bowfishng Fish Hawk it is a kit that comes ready to shoot. My question is this something that is quality and something that I could get the job done with?

Here is some info on it.

AMS Fish Hawk

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That is what I would get if I needed a set-up to get into the sport. I have converted both my old deer hunting bows, but they are set up the same as that one.

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I do some shooting on german and jeff. Let me know if you want to tag along sometime.

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that bow will work but I think you will want to upgrade after a while. A bow with a little higher draw weight would be better and let you shoot in all types of conditions. That kit comes with a roller rest and it is very easy for the arrow to fall off the rest with a little finger pinch when you draw back. I have seen them sell the AMS Wave Rest in those kits instead. Before you commit to buying anything check out these bowfishing suppliers first. You can buy a bow for cheap on [YouNeedAuthorization] and buy the other equipment seperatly and spend less then the price of that kit.

Backwater Bowfishing

Bowfishing Extreme

I know quite a few bowfisherman in the mankato area who would be happy to take a beginer out fishing. Also there is the bowbender tourney in the middle of may there. This tourney runs into the buff spawn and is great shooting.

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I do some shooting on german and jeff. Let me know if you want to tag along sometime.

Sure thing! German is my main fishing lake!

I also would like a bow I could use for just regular target practice, and maybe deer hunting.

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Hey carpshooter is there a bow that you would suggest? I would like to spend $450 max.

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I am trading a case of Busch Light for a used bow that I would like to use for picking off some carp this spring. I need to get the arrows and reel. I seen some different set ups at Fleet Farm that range from 15 - 80. is there a difference? Are there some that are safer than others?

Any recommendations would be helpful.

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Hey carpshooter is there a bow that you would suggest? I would like to spend $450 max.

Oneida bows are the prefered bow for most bowfisherman that i know. I have three older oneidas in my boat that i bought off [YouNeedAuthorization] for around $120 each. Someday I am going to fork out the money and buy a Oneida Osprey. These are very, very nice bows for bowfishing but they are spendy.

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I am trading a case of Busch Light for a used bow that I would like to use for picking off some carp this spring. I need to get the arrows and reel. I seen some different set ups at Fleet Farm that range from 15 - 80. is there a difference? Are there some that are safer than others?

Any recommendations would be helpful.

This is what i would buy if I was in your shoes.

- AMS Retreiver Reel

- Muzzy Fish Hook Rest

- 2 Fiberglass Arrows with Muzzy Quick Release Points

- Some extra nocks

- A package of AMS Safty Slides.

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I think I'll end up buying the same stuff. I have a couple of old compunds I was scheming on using an old recurve but I guess an old compound would be ok. I've been spearing suckers since I was just a kid, now that i'm old and don't like tromping through the water like I did when I was younger, I can stand on the bank and get a few for the smoker and get some archery in.

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carpshooter would like to get into bowfishing with my sons & love to know where to get a lo cost effective starter kit, but not too low i need to upgrade right away. thanks

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carpshooter would like to get into bowfishing with my sons & love to know where to get a lo cost effective starter kit, but not too low i need to upgrade right away. thanks

I would recomend the AMS Fish Hawk Bow. This bow has a 30-40# draw weight and 15"-30" draw length. I dont know how old your kids are but they would be able to grow with this bow, adults can shoot this bow. In a catalog Im looking at right now, its priced at $238. This bow has been out for a couple years and I never heard of problems with this bow also AMS is very good a standing behind there products.

Reminder, there is a bowfishing day at the Rogers Cabelas on the 18th of april.

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I don't use sights... It's all instinct and looking down the shaft of the arrow... Most of your shots are gonna be less than 8 yards and you'll be suprised how accurate you are just pointing and shooting

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You can use whatever bow you want. Just like anything you can buy as nice of equipment as you want for how serious you are about it. I bought an old Reflex hunting bow and just stripped it down.

Couple things to consider:

1. Drop your draw weight down to where CS said. Otherwise if you are in shallow water you will be spending your time trying to pull your arrow out of the bottom. And you will get pass thrus on the fish where you will have to try to thread the arrow back through the fish at odd angles.

2. As Morn said, you don't need sites. You'll get the feel for it after you've shot a few times. Remember to aim below the fish.

3. ALWAYS check the line after you have knocked the arrow to make sure it isn't wrapped around something that will make it swing back at you when your release the arrow. Also check again periodically while you standing around with the arrow knocked. The slide on the arrow, the wind, and you moving around will make the line move around also.

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3. ALWAYS check the line after you have knocked the arrow to make sure it isn't wrapped around something that will make it swing back at you when your release the arrow. Also check again periodically while you standing around with the arrow knocked. The slide on the arrow, the wind, and you moving around will make the line move around also.

You cannot stress this point enough!!!!!!

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Well I got my Bowfishing set up, and can't wait to get out and use it on May 1st!

Is there anyone in the Mankato area that would like to show me the ropes?

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The AMS retriever is great buy but i prefer aluminum (Sp) bowfishing arrows and i tie directly to the arrow the slides tend to break too much.

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Questions for Slayer21.....

Where on the arrow do you tie directly to? That sounds like it could be very dangerous??? I have never had a safety slide break on me yet... Don't the slides work on the aluminum bowfishing arrows? Why do you prefer the aluminum arrows?

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the slides dont but the slide stopper does. i think the aluminum arrows shoot straighter just my opinion. i take the slide stop out and then tie right through that hole..i havent had any dangerous encounters yet

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i could get you on some fish but i doubt you would wanna drive 2 hours.. im not realy expection the opener to turn out to great as the water is stil somewhat cold..

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
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