Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
fishindon

Fertilizing and over seeding.

4 posts in this topic

Previously, like 2 years ago, used a lawn specialty company for lawn care. After having them basically destroy my lawn, decided to do it myself as I now have the time (retired).

I have two concerns. My lawn has started coming back quite nicely, however there are some bare spots that need work. Mainly under two maple trees. What is the best way to go about growing grass under the trees? And two, what is the best fertilizer to use on the entire lawn?

I live in New Ulm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The best fertilizer will be one that's recommended by what a soil test will determine you need.

There's a sticky at the top of the Lawn and Garden forum on ways to get a soil test, and from there you can check the extension service on ways to correct your pH levels to the most conducive for turf.

After that, I would personally recommend something that's going to get you between 3/4 and 1 lb of Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft, and a higher Potassium / Potash (3rd number) which will stimulate root growth.

Unless you're trying to establish a completely new lawn, you're going to want to stay away from anything with a number other than zero for the Phosphorus (2nd number).

As for the Maple trees, if they're mature, or even if they're not that mature, there's a good chance that there's just too much shade.

You can do 1 of 2 things. Either thin out the branches in the Maple trees to allow more sunlight through and switch those areas of grass over to a shade mix fescue, OR find some cover plants that like shade (typical Hosta, Quetico can probably fill you in on others) and just put mulch over the area and reduce your maintenance area.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info. I'm going to see if our local testing facility in town does soil samples. Your respons and info is appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a problem.

If you do send out for some samples, you'll want to take some from those bare spots under the trees, as well as the areas that are doing good, to see what the difference is, if any in the soil.

If the soil samples come back close to being identical, then you're probably looking at there's just too much shade to support grass under those trees.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Reminds me of a memorable morning at our place when  THREE male's landed on a front picture window ledge and just sat there for a few minutes looking in.  What a glorious sight!  They were likely just moving through because we do not see them during a normal summer. In fact this summer we have noticed a decline in many species; no bluebirds at all, only a couple doves, fewer swallows, not as many wrens (but still plenty of them) and for the first time a pair of cowbirds. Normal mornings are like a symphony around here just about daybreak.
    • forgot I made this post, I fished a lake here in SD last weekend that has a sunken road way and bridge completely submerged. Its gotten to the point the concrete has fallen apart under water but you can still see most of the structure in tact but also some rebar etc.   I wanted to get a screen capture but as usual that exact spot was popular and already occupied with other boats playing bumper boats to anchor and fish near and I didn't want to intrude on their fishing space just for a picture. 
    • Good post and discussion. I'm convinced not more than 10%, and that might be stretching it and I include myself in the 90%, know how to use their equipment. Every fishing site is loaded with similar posts.
    • I looked everywhere for the screws in the first post and nobody knew what I was talking about till I went to Ace, where I should have gone first. They are actually considered a sheetrock screw! I can't see any use for them with sheetrock but I was told it was because of the coating on them. I have a beat up old trailer house at hunting camp and they are perfect for putting warped metal siding back together and super sharp like a self piercing screw. Sometimes they are called gutter screws too. The hex ones do work great for boots and four wheeler tires.  
    • I liked Lavine too, but coming off ACL surgery you get the feeling that he will lose some of that explosiveness that made him fun to watch.
    • And remember, turkey is not pork and doesn't benefit from high internal temperatures.   It dries out if overcooked.  160 is plenty, maybe even a little less. 
    • Also, turkey doesn't need to be "low and slow" to get to be tender. Crank the heat to 250+ if you like. I've had the smaller breasts done in just 2 1/2 to 3 hrs. FWIW, I just rub it down with olive oil and apply your favorite rub.  If injecting at all, Creole Butter is a nice, quick, easy option. Apple mixed with cherry or hickory are my favorite woods to use.    
    • Well, that was interesting! The same trade that would have been good last year is seemingly brilliant this year. Butler immediately shores up our defense and creates additional scoring for this young, suddenly legitimate team. Great move to start the new year, and a good draft prospect at #16 to boot. While I do like Lavine, we seemed to do a bit better with him sidelined which is not an indictment on his talent, but rather proof that he didn't quite fit our scheme. All in all, this was about as lopsided a trade as I can think of and we should be pretty darn happy with the return we got!
    • What a treat to see a tanager.
  • Our Sponsors