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ate1cropy

Tieable wire

14 posts in this topic

Im looking to learn about tieable wire for use as a leader... Im not a fan of using leaders when im not fishing for pike because with some lures they seem to kill the action of the lure. Im sick of losing expensive lures when I do tie into a pike. Will the tieable wire give more of a free motion to my lures and prevent getting cut offs so much? Thanks

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Have you tried 100 pound flouro leaders?

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I have not... Will that hold up if I catch a bunch of snakes?

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I used the tieable water for a while when I was saltwater fishing and didn't like it at all. I switched to a hard wire called Malin Wire and liked that a lot better. As long as you put a good loop in it where you attached the bait or snap it works really well. I've made some pike leaders out of it and they work good --- but I usually use leaders I buy, including 80 and 100 lb flouro leaders.

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They use heavy flouro leaders like that for big pike and muskies so I would imagine it would hold up.

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I'd recommend either the Surflon Micro Supreme or Ultra, both made by american fishing wire. A heavy flouro will hold up, but will affect lure action more - you mentioned a leader for when you are not fishing for pike so I'm assuming you're concerned about losing bass/walleye lures. Most of those will run much better with a light tieable wire than a heavy flouro - the heavy flouro is for big musky/pike lures.

Tyger and Toothy Critter are also good options.

I need to check into the Malin Wire mentioned by PerchJerker.

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If you go into any crafts store and look for Beadalon wire, it is the same thing as American Fishing Wire, but for 1/2 the price. Made by the same company, just a different label.

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I was using some Terminator titanium tieable wire for a while, and I liked it. Then someone stole it out of my boat.

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I tried the Malin wire and could not get it to cut without unraveling. Maybe I had a bad spool, but the problem made it worthless.

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I use invisaleaders. They are made from very thin

wire and seem to be the least inhibitive to a lure's

action. They are not coated and have snap and

swivel on them. We usually go with the 5 inch size

in 12 pound test. The only bad thing I have

noticed, is that they will start to coil up

after landing several fish. When they do, I

cut it off and put another one on. About a buck

a piece, but cheaper than giving the nice pike

your rapala!!

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I tried the Malin wire and could not get it to cut without unraveling. Maybe I had a bad spool, but the problem made it worthless.

I don't cut it, I twist it off. I think it's called a haywire wrap? Anyway, you make a few wide twists, then a few barrel wraps, then you bend the tag end into a crank or handle and just start twisting and it comes right off. It's very slick, it makes a super clean end right against the standing part of the wire, much cleaner than a cut or a knot.

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Possibly hydro was using some of the 7-strand type? I've had minor unraveling issues with such material.

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Try TyGer brand knottable leader material. I use it for cranks and swimbaits on Devils Lake where there are tons of small pike (which are the worst line snippers). Tie a clinch knot. TyGer is really flexible and won't take any action off your baits. Good stuff!

Jim Carroll NPAA #13

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