Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
BLACKJACK

Class 5 gravel?

28 posts in this topic

I have a gravel driveway, fairly long, and every year I just call up the local blacktop company and get a couple loads hauled in, I want to keep a good base and replace what disapears via snowblowing and erosion. My problem is that its always very sandy gravel, not much rock in it. Then the next heavy rain it washes away. I almost feel like they are bringing the poor gravel to me, the occaisional customer rather than the good gravel with aggregate in it.

How can you tell if its good class 5?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am probably going to have some hauled in this spring as well, how long of a distance does a load cover and how much do they charge?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a gravel driveway, fairly long, and every year I just call up the local blacktop company and get a couple loads hauled in, I want to keep a good base and replace what disappears via snowblowing and erosion. My problem is that its always very sandy gravel, not much rock in it. Then the next heavy rain it washes away. I almost feel like they are bringing the poor gravel to me, the occasional customer rather than the good gravel with aggregate in it.

How can you tell if its good class 5?

Class 5 generally is pulverised limestone down to 3/4 inch. There should be a 3/4 limestone mixed with finer particles of limestone ratio I would say 3 parts 3/4" to 1 part particle(dust and 1/4"to 3/8"). No sand in it only limestone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am probably going to have some hauled in this spring as well, how long of a distance does a load cover and how much do they charge?
Coverage is 100 sq ft/ton at 2" deep or 70 sq ft/ton at 3" or 50 sq ft/ton at 4"

A ton = 2000# where 1 cubic yard is 1.4 tons.

_

As for cost it can very depending where you get it from $25 a ton

Down to $10 a ton from a quarry with an average of $150 shipping fee.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gravel varies from one location to another depending on what is available. I doubt you will find much limestone in class 5 in this area. Talk with whoever does the roads for your township. What you are talking about is a continuing problem for them and they known the best and least expensive way to deal with it. In our area, sugar sand (beach sand) is very easy to come by but is nearly worthless for building roads. In some places class 5 is the best way to go but in others you need something else.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Class 5 usually consists of sand and finer rocks. what you should consider is class 2 which has 3/4 rock with fines. or another consideration is check into crush asphalt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Or try recycled concrete. Cheaper and it also "binds" together better than CL5. However, it doesn't drain as well so that may or may not be an issue for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we use recycled class 5 (crushed asphalt and concrete). it tends to have less of the fine material (depending on where you get it) and it is alot cheaper than limestone class 5. compaction is a must or it will just wash away as you said. it will not look the same as limestone, so if that matters then maybe its not for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BillP made a good point in what is available in ones area.

As far as class 5(also none as 3/4 minus) it is classifacation not a type of material. You can get class 5 recycle or what ever material that is available

Class 2 is half inch you dont want that for a drive way

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Class 5 can be any crushed rock. Limestone is just one mix. It consists of course to Fine aggregate. Every gravel road has what you are describing happen every year as it rains and the snow melts. That is exactly why gravel roads need to be graded a couple times a year as well as gravel added to them occaisionally. It has nothing to do with the product you are recieving. There is only one cure and that is to Pave your driveway, otherwise it will be something you have to do to maintain your gravel driveway. Now using a class 7 mix can be cheaper and in many instances have less fines to wash away. Class 7 recycled, Bit, and concrete. Good luck. The county I work for every year is paving more and more roads to eliminate the constant maintence. Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another note? Are you compacting the gravel after you lay it down? I would also add instead of adding each year. Why not just have it graded?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lots of gravel and asphalt guys on this forum!!! Thanks for the advice!!!

I do live on a hill so I'm also fighting erosion every time it rains. My maintenance consists of taking my tractor and double I beam drag, setting the attachment chains just right and in the spring dragging the gravel toward the center so I have a good crown, so the water runs off. I do that several times a summer, especially when I notice the water running down the tire tracks.

In the fall I straighten the I beam out and flatten that crown out so that it makes snowblowing easier, if I don't the snowblower will take that crown off for me - and there goes my gravel!!

Compaction is done by vehicles and the tractor running up and down the road.

I think I will contact the township, find out who they are contracting to haul gravel, then get them to haul some, that way I get the same class that the township is getting, not from the sand pile.

Thanks for the advice!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Class 5 doesent always even have to be crushed. Sometimes a sand and gravel mixture will make the class 5 gradation right out of the bank. Not much limestone in Willmar. I am guessing your choices are class 5 sand and gravel, crushed rock, or recycle. The recycle sometimes is dusty and wont drain too well - might be an option for the driveway if not too close to the house

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have worked around recycled concrete the problem I've seen is dust, best way around that is to put recycled asphalt on top of it. Makes a great driveway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would try class 2 like stated before. I would also rent a roller to compact the driveway. This will help establish a solid base and help with the erosion. I've seen others use 3/4" sewer rock (may be called 3/4" clear, 3/4" limestone, 3/4" keystone depending on where you live and where you get it from). It's a drainage material so it may help with some of those problems. Whatever you do I would definately compact it though. Hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes bituminous millings work great (they are a little spendy as the aspahlt guys recycle them back into their plant) After the millings get packed down in the heat of the summer it is like you have a paved driveway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3/4 clear, I think if I remember right will not compact without fines to hold it together

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

class 5 to meet specs must be crushed if you take gravel out of a bank the round natural rock wont compact class 5 is rock cushed to 1 inch and smaller and has 2-5% of clay (binder) in it

crushed concrete can get dusty that is a draw back to it

crushed asphalt and milling i dont care for at all in driveway

unless its install with the right equipment some kind of small grader and COMPACTED that is the key here no matter what you use

if it graded and compacted even the class 5 will last for awhile if its graded to drain

the problem with useing cushed asphalt or millings is as the someone above said the sun will heat it and it will bind together and you CAN NOT regrade it cuz it all slides in one big chunk and if you plan on have it paved in the future it will hafta be removed to do the job right

as i said i think the best scernio is to get a driveway contractor in there when it drys out have then grade and roll

(COMPACT IT GOOD) useing either class 5 or crushed concrete

then your done talk to him like your going to have it paved the following yr and he might cut you a good deal

you can buy all these products til you blue in the face every yr spending a grand or spend aliittle this yr and next and be done with it

oh and DONT use class 2 it has higher percentage of clay and smaller rock and when it rains you will have a geasy mess everytime not sure how big your driveway is but you figure around 2-2.25 per sq ft thats bout what it should cost to have it paved

depending on where oil prices go but that will give you a close cost

oh and dont use the landscape rock or clear 3/4 you have a mess cuz as someone said it will not compact and in the winter you will spread it all over and really have a mess in your yard

plus it way more spendy than cleass 5 or crushed concrete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i think its called pit run gravel when they just take it out of the bank and clasify it. it does not pack as well as crushed rock.

dirtking i see your from LC, me too im just north of gervais.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's been my experience that 3/4 clear will compact just not to the magnitude that class 5 would. I work for a landscape distributer and we use 3/4 clear for the base on some patio's and retaining walls (typically large parking lots and large walls) due to the fact that it doesn't settle as much as class 5 or class 2 does. It also has a better drainage rate so you can avoid water and heaving with the freeze-thaw we have here in Minnesota. People use different things I understand that, but this has been my experience and I work with the stuff every day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Generally the gravel counties and townships use on thier roads is pit run or screened. that material doesnt compact well because the rock isnt crushed. class 5 is a crushed material but the range of rock in the mix is wide. my preference would be a crushed rock material. granite, limestone, quartsite. concrete, bit, etc... it will probably cost more but last longer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my last thought here i've been doing this type of work for close to 30 yrs now

like i said 3/4 rock screen or clear rock as they say will be all over your yard

theres not a county in the state that puts pit run on the roads

and doubt very much any townships do

as far as class 5 again it is 1 inch rock and smaller to meet MnDot specs it all goes threw screens as its bein crushed

but if your not going to pave it right i would use the crushed concrete rent a roller spay some water on it pound the hec out of it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • I guess the one positive regarding this Carrier deal is at least, of what I've seen from watching some of them, the press starting to question government involvement in  private enterprise and cronyism.   It only took them eight years but better late than never, I guess.
    • They're made by NGP, an industrial producer in Ningbo, China. Good luck getting service or parts on that, is all I'll say. I know all the other augers engines, etc, are made in China, but they also have been around for years with an established company, which is a huge difference. I'd be real cautious...
    • I use 100 pound power pro braid never had any issues with it.
    • I've been looking into them.   I believe 33 is a typo.
    • Old fashioned black Dacron musky line. Durable tough  Have thought of trying  50 or 100lb flouro but knots are hard to do in it then you have to use crimps etc more point to fail. Interested to see what others do.   Mwal
    • I kinda wish Parise would have opted for the surgery this offseason and miss the first month or so, rather than to rehab it.  Its starting to show.
    • Here is good overview article that might be interesting...   https://www.dgif.virginia.gov/wildlife/diseases/cwd/science-behind-cwd-management/   The Science Behind CWD Management Why Manage CWD? Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) has the potential to negatively impact deer herds wherever the disease occurs. CWD is always fatal and while there have only been 13 cases detected in Virginia, as of February 2016, CWD could have serious negative impacts on the state’s deer population if it became established and widely prevalent (Almberg et al. 2011). CWD infection decreases deer survival odds and lowers total life expectancy (Miller et al. 2008). If a large percentage of the population were to become infected there could be negative impacts for the population, including: A decline in doe survival, which results in an overall reduced population (Gross and Miller 2001); Fewer older bucks, as male animals are more likely to be infected due to specific male social and behavioral tendencies (Miller et al. 2008, Jennelle et al. 2014); and An overall decline in population (Gross and Miller 2001, Almberg et al. 2011), as exhibited in Colorado. In the area of Colorado with highest CWD prevalence, mule deer numbers have plummeted by 45%, in spite of good habitat and protection from human hunting (Miller et al. 2008). DGIF is concerned about the impact CWD could have on Virginia’s deer herd; once CWD has become well established in an area, its persistence in the environment makes eradication extremely difficult, if not impossible. Taking action to keep the percentage of infected animals low helps to prevent (or at least slow) the spread of CWD to new areas, and also helps to slow the transmission of the disease between individuals. Understanding the Spread of CWD CWD prions, which are the infectious proteins that cause the disease, are found in saliva, urine, feces, and blood (Mathiason et al. 2006, Mathiason et al. 2009). They can persist for years outside the body, in soil and in other substances, and can be transmitted by animals that are not yet showing symptoms of the disease (Miller et al. 2004, Mathiason et al. 2009). Halting or slowing the spread of CWD is therefore a matter of reducing transmission between deer and making deer less likely to pick up prions from the environment (Mathiason et al. 2009, Grear et al. 2010, Storm et al. 2013). Differences in behavior make tracking the spread of CWD different between does and bucks and between younger and older adults. Bucks are more likely to become infected, for reasons that are not well understood (Grear et al. 2006, Miller et al. 2008, Jennelle et al. 2014). Higher CWD prevalence is found in older age classes of bucks (Grear et al 2006). Adult bucks make long excursions outside their home range, bringing them into contact with a wider area and more individual deer (Karns 2011). Young bucks are more likely to disperse from their mother’s home range and can cover many kilometers, thereby potentially spreading the disease across the landscape (McCoy et al. 2005). Young bucks infected with CWD may not be indicative of established CWD presence at the location they were killed because the buck may have been traveling. Does are relatively sedentary, usually spending their lives near their place of birth and with a related social group. Does only rarely make excursions (Kolodzinski et al. 2009, Miller et al. 2010, Grear et al. 2010). Locations where infected does are found are likely to be a source of further infected deer (Grear et al. 2010, Magel et al. 2013). An infected doe suggests that CWD is established in the population where that doe was killed (Grear et al. 2010, Magel et al. 2013). Of Virginia’s thirteen infected deer (as of February 2016), just four were does. Of the nine infected bucks, seven were harvested within just a few miles of the does, suggesting a small cluster of infection. The last two bucks were killed several miles from the cluster. The fact that these two outliers were young bucks makes it likely, though not certain, that these individuals were on the move, dispersing from their birth places. Managing CWD Due to the nature of the prions which cause CWD (please see the What Are Prions page for more information), treatment of diseased animals is not an option. Research suggests that there is some hope of managing CWD, and that the best methods available are: Decreasing transmission opportunity by:Lowering the density of the deer population A lower density population surrounding a location of known infection reduces the chances of deer picking up CWD prions from the environment, or from each other. Research indicates that indirect transmission is just as important as animal-to-animal transmission (Storm et al. 2013). Population reduction could reduce contacts between infected and susceptible individuals and consequently reduce the disease transmission rate. Analysis of spatial data indicates that CWD is clustered on the landscape, from which one could infer that deer near CWD-positive deer are more likely to be infected (Joly et al. 2003.) Earn-a-Buck, currently in effect in Frederick, Warren, and Clarke Counties (the cluster of infected deer is located in Frederick County), is designed to reduce the overall deer population by focusing more hunting pressure on the female segment of the population. Banning feeding or baiting of deer in areas with CWD CWD prions can be found in saliva (Mathiason et al. 2009), and feed or bait piles are excellent modalities to transfer saliva between deer. Feed and bite piles also artificially congregate deer, thereby facilitating transmission through urine and feces. Prevent the introduction of CWD prions into new areas: VDGIF prohibits the movement of deer carcasses out of the CWD Containment Area until after they have been processed according to guidelines described in Transporting Carcasses Within and Out of the Containment Area. VDGIF prohibits the transport of carcasses from states/provinces listed as CWD Carcass Restriction Zones into Virginia unless they have already been processed according to these guidelines. VDGIF prohibits the possession and use of attractants made from real deer urine or other natural body fluids from deer while afield. CWD prions may be found in the urine of infected deer even if the deer is not showing symptoms (John et al. 2013). There is no live animal test for CWD that is approved by the USDA, therefore deer farms producing and bottling urine cannot guarantee that they are collecting urine from healthy animals. There is no economically viable way to test urine for CWD after collection. Doing nothing to manage CWD is not a satisfactory option, as shown by a number of studies that have examined hunters’ attitudes toward current and potential strategies for managing CWD (Vaske 2010). Among hunters in most states and studies, (a) testing harvested animals for CWD and using hunters to reduce herds in CWD areas were acceptable strategies, (b) agencies taking no action and allowing CWD to take its natural course were considered unacceptable, and (c) using agency staff to reduce herds in CWD areas was controversial. Hunters also generally supported efforts to minimize spread of CWD and eliminate the disease from animal herds (Vaske 2010). A VDGIF survey conducted following the discovery of CWD in Frederick County in 2009 concluded that respondents supported five of seven potential strategies to control CWD in affected areas, including mandatory disease testing of hunter-killed deer, deer feeding prohibitions, deer carcass movement restrictions, restrictions on deer rehabilitation, and reduction of deer populations using hunters (VDGIF 2010, unpublished data). Respondents did not support the use of sharpshooting to reduce localized deer populations (42% opposed, 36% supported, 22% were neutral), but the strongest opposition was recorded for the option that described a complete lack of effort or attempt to manage CWD (79 % opposed, 8% supported).   (the references are at the link and appear to all be from various scientific type journals)
    • The recount effort underway in Wisconsin is turning out to have some disappointing results for former Green Party nominee Jill Stein and former Democratic nominee Hillary Clinton. By the end of the fifth day, and after more than 1 million votes were recounted, Trump grew his lead by just over two dozen votes.     Meanwhile in Pennsylvania, Clinton has only gained five votes after the state’s two largest counties completed their recount.     
    • It turns out that there haven't been many studies of long term impact of cwd, that I could find.    Here is a write up about one of them, from Wyoming.    http://www.wyofile.com/study-chronic-wasting-disease-kills-19-deer-annually/ and this one... http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0161127 Chronic Wasting Disease Drives Population Decline of White-Tailed Deer David R. Edmunds , Matthew J. Kauffman, Brant A. Schumaker, Frederick G. Lindzey, Walter E. Cook, Terry J. Kreeger, Ronald G. Grogan, Todd E. Cornish      
    • I use a thin super-line/braid. That said,  a friend of mine swears by mono in really clear water and I've sat with him and seen a lot of wary fish that still get close enough to ruin their day. Not sure if it matters or not... I just like the assurance of braid.
  • Our Sponsors