Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
irishwalleye

Interior load bearing walls

14 posts in this topic

Split-entry designed house. Looking to change floor plan.

How do I identify load bearing walls that should be left alone prior to even starting a project?

The only walls that I would like to remove are on the upper level of the house.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take a peak in the attic and look at the roof structure.

Most houses are either rafter framed or have roof trusses.

Roof trusses typically clear span from one side of the house to the other. In this case, all interior walls should be fair game for removal.

If you have rafters, they typically are supported down the center of your house.

For your lower level, most floor joists will span to the center of the house again where you'll find either a continuous beam in the basement with columns or a bearing wall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hanson, can you explain how one can tell between rafter's and trusses?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We'll try... here's a couple diagrams that might tell the story better.

This shows typical rafter framing. Rafters were commonly used before premanufactured roof trusses took over. Rafters are individual pieces of framing.

What is very common in rafter framing is the attic floor framing (ceiling framing) has a bearing point down the middle of the house. You are never going to get a 2x8 to span 20' without major deflection problems so they would divide the span into 2 sections which creates a bearing wall down the middle of the house. The wider the house, the more chance that there are multiple bearing points since you can only work with dimensional lumber up to certain lengths.

This is much more common in older homes, like pre-1960.

You need to be very careful identifying which walls are supporting ceiling and roof structure above in houses structured like this.

rafterframing.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now here is premanufactured wood truss framing.

All the separate roof trusses are produced in the factory as a system, shipped to the site on a truck, and lifted into place with a crane or army of strong men.

A truss has 2 bearing points, one on each end. In a residential home, this is typically the exterior walls.

Spans of 40', 45', and even out to 50' I believe are possible with trusses now.

rooftrussframing.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As a general rule on a rafter roof if the interior wall runs perpedicular to the rafters then leave it alone. If it runs parallel to the rafters then its fair game to be removed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bearing walls in the lower level (if unfinished basement) usually require blocking between the studs.

another thing to look for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You really need on site professional advice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would say hanson pretty much layed it on the table. If you fully understand that you should good to go... If you do not; definetly get some help. Your wife will thank you later!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I deal with this type of stuff daily working in the architecture field. If you don't know what you are looking for, don't attempt it yourself. If you can tell the difference between the 2 systems, at least you'll understand the feasibility of your project.

Do you know what year your house was built?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do what King Canada suggested, get someone out there to look at it. The possibility of someone not understanding what is being explained is too much of a risk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

House built 1984 -- The misses and I dont like the idea of having our bedroom and the kids on separate levels especially since they are young.

I was planning on asking for professional help but am just looking at the feasability of the project before asking someone to come out.

I haven't looked in the attic yet as this is a house we will be moving into. From what I have seen so far, there is mainly one wall between two bedrooms, on the upper level of the house, that I want to remove (maybe a 10 foot span).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Not a bad idea or product. I just think I'd be worried about the well freezing into the ice. 
    • Had a fun week of fishing...thought I would share some spots!
    • Did 20 qts of pickles last Monday, another 1/2 bushel tomorrow!!
    • Hey everyone has anyone started to pickle yet? Just did 65 quarts of pickles over the weekend. Also did some jars with the carolina repear pepper. Can't wait to try them.
    • I like the Wal-Mart corn to!
    • When is the date unsold bear tags go onsale?
    • I may try smoked rough fish on my bait this year. Anyone tried smoke fish on the bait pile?
    • Does anyone eat or use mooneyes? I caught one in the St. Croix today. Nothing else, it was interesting fish!
    • I hope to take a trip to ND this season, maybe they will get first ice before we do.
    • Hey everybody. An FYI. There is something new coming. Should be out around October, 2017 and available for on-line purchase.   If you google : ICE WELL Live Well ICAST 2017 The video of the product roll-out at ICAST 2017 in July, 2017 will pop up.   Also you can go to the product page. See : ICEWELLLiveWell.com. The page has a separate video to view also.                        The product is being manufactured from a custom blend non-buoyant polypropylene with impact modifiers to withstand extreme cold without cracking. The product will sit within 99% of all manufactured 5-gallon buckets for transport to and from the fishing spot. It is designed to fit within a drilled 8 or 10 inch ice hole. When in the drilled hole it will fill allowing you to throw your catch in the ICE WELL Live Well. No more throwing them on the ice or in the bucket to die, freeze or turn to slime. At the end of the day, pull it, place back in the bucket for transport home. No more frozen fish and easy handling. It's going to sell for around $19.99 plus shipping. The listed page will undergo changes before roll out that will allow purchase direct on-line. This is a creation by a Nebraska ice fisherman for ice fishermen. Made in the USA. Made with recycled materials. "Respect the Resource".     
  • Our Sponsors