Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Eric Wettschreck

No spark

29 posts in this topic

2000 Olds Bravada with a 4.3 motor.

It ran great yesterday. The wife got in it this morning and it wouldn't start. It has been raining and blowing hard all night so I thought the ignition was wet.

When I got home from work I shoved it into the garage and pulled the dist cap. It's bone dry. The cap and rotor definately look like they need replacing as they're showing their age, but no moisture. Cleaned things up, put back together, tried to start, still no spark.

Do ignition modules normally go bad when you shut the motor off??

I'm thinkin the module went bad. What do yous guys think?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you check for spark at the coil wire or at a plug wire?

I've run into bad rotors and caps that are grounding internally so you wont see the spark unless you check it at the coil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did not check it at the coil. I pulled a plug and checked for spark there.

If the module is good it will spark at the coil, correct?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Checked at the coil. There is spark at the coil. Checked at 3 different plugs, no spark.

Safe to assume then that the module is good, and the problem probably lies in the cap/rotor?

I've had bad caps and rotors before, but I've never heard of them going bad just at the snap of a finger. Then again, I'm not ASE type dude either, just a shade tree guy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats where I would go. Wet and damp weather brings out the worst in ignition systems. I guess if mileage/time warrants it, I'd replace the plugs and wires too. Hopefully that will get you back on the road.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have fun whith the #5 plug if you choose to accept the challenge!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have fun whith the #5 plug if you choose to accept the challenge!

I hate this rig. I'm thinking a black and red for sale sign is the best part I can buy.

I just put new plugs in this thing like 5000 miles or so ago. Don't let #5 feel so special, they all sucked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just put new plugs in this thing like 5000 miles or so ago. Don't let #5 feel so special, they all sucked.

If you just did them, then the hard part is over wink Start with the cap and rotor and go from there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i got a 4.3 in my s10, last summer on the rainy day i tried to start it and it wouldnt fire, next day i took off the cap and rotor both were dry, but there was corrision all over them cleaned them off put it back in and it did start but it struggled, replaced both of them and started great!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got home from work today and put in a cap and rotor. She started right up. That's the good news.

It runs horrible, idles rough, and no power. That's the bad news.

I hooked up my auto x-ray and got the code 0300- multiple cylinder misfire. I then took plug wires off the cap one at a time and yup, #1 and #5 have no change when I pulled off the plug wire. I pulled #1 plug, hooked it up to the wire, touched it to the manifold and started the motor. It's sparking. I didn't do the same to #5 because as airjer stated, it's a challenge.

This thing ran fine 2 days ago and now this. First no spark and no start. I fixed that but now #1 and #5 have no change with the plug wire disconnected, but #1 plug is firing and the piston will blow your finger off the open plug hole.

Any suggestions where to go from here?????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you sure the wires are hooked up in the right order?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3 2

1 4

5 6

- C

Are you sure the rotor is on the right way?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rotors on the right way. I tried to put it on 180 off and it will only go on one way. Wires are on the right way.

Your last post is spot on, Jer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your sure the wires aren't arcing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't see or hear anything arcing. This of course doesn't mean they arn't, I just can't see or hear it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just for fun, humor me/us and quadruple check. Are you sure the cylinder positions are where you believe them to be? Did you trace each wire all the way to each plug to make sure that two are not crossed?

It just seems too coincidental that it was running fine before and now its missing after a cap and rotor install.

The cylinders are Drivers side front to rear 1..3..5 and passenger side front to back 2..4..6.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mac, you wouldn't believe how many times I've traced them out. The wires are on the right part of the cap.

I've taken this cap and rotor off about a million times now and still no change. I know it's very weird that things were good, then no spark, cap and rotor later and I have a misfire.

I don't have time to work on this as life is getting busy. It's on it's way to my good friend Jimmy (ASE tech) at his shop when I get home from work.

I'll let yous guys know what the deal was when I get it back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Eric did you plug the wires from the plugs?

Any chance you didn't get them seated?

I had the runs rough in wet weather syndrome on the van.

Of coarse the first thing I did was change the cap/rotor/wires.

Didn't do a thing. Eventually I found out water was running off the windshield and onto the engine. Guess where some of that water ended up? Yep wet spark plugs and it would sit there till you drove long enough. I pulled off the weather striping and used contact cement to reattach it. Problem solved.

That could be your problem. If you didn't drop off yet, use compressed air the blow out any water that could have gotten around your plugs. Remove the plug wire and dry that out too. It'll take a lot of air directly at the source so use a hose off your air tool to get down in there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jimmy told me there are 2 bad injectors. We'll see how this POS runs after they're replaced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    •   And then what? There's a saying that goes, "Be careful what you wish for. You just might get it."   You have a country of 300 some million individuals and a good number of that all have different ideas how to so call fix this. That's why we are set up as a representative republic and not a democracy.   You seem to be assuming most people will see things your way

    • Look my very own internet stalker making memes about me, such a proud day.

    • I guess the question is when are we going to get pizzed off enough to do something about it? Guess we aren't there yet.
    •   Hi guys ... Everyone was very helpful last year with what line to use ect...   As I was a fairly new Bass fisherman.  Had a great last open water season as did great with Texas rigs with variety of Senko's.  Also started throwing frogs with 50# power pro with 7'6" med Heavy rod ... wow is that fun!!   What brand is every throwing or like?   I'm going to try the Bobby's Perfect Frog this year  by Snag Proof.  I threw the Booya's this last year and that is a rush.  Can't wait for some basin times!!
    •   Yep, had to fix a few of those switches and tell the wife and kids to let the motor stop before pounding it in reverse!!
    • Kind of crude image but here is what I'm looking at.
    • Access is in the middle but I'm not overly concerned with that.  I can seal it up and cut a new one.  I'm thinking about slide channels mounted on the wall with a steel or aluminum frame mounted to the channels that can slide up and down with a electric winch routed through a couple pulleys. 
    •   You and Bearsheet.................blame everyone but yourselves.  All you those grueling hours you 2 spent in Sillytown advocating for Gary "Hillary is great" Johnson.   #victim #noonegetsitbutyou
    • How close is the access hole to the wall? I have a friend that built a large loft in his shed and utilized cammed pulleys and weights to allow him to hinge the stairway from the loft. Basically, with the cammed pulley, it stays down when he pulls it down and stays up when he puts it up... all with little to no effort.
    • It is often said that people get the kind of government they deserve.
  • Our Sponsors