Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
MN Shutterbug

Advice, suggestions, opinions

Recommended Posts

I just received this print in the mail. It is 8" X 45". I'm looking for advice for framing and matting. The longest glass I can get is 52" long. This gives me 3 1/2" each side. Here is my idea. I'm considering a 1 1/4" wide wood frame with a 2 1/2" mat. I'm not sure if dark or mid tone wood, would look best. I'm also not sure about the color of mat. This is going to be for sale, so I'm kind of leaning towards white or off white mat, which would go with anything. However, I'm open to others' ideas, and really welcome them. Thanks in advance.

3378855613_e1335c508a_b.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A white/offwhite mat will pull out the white eagle feathers and be decorator-neutral for a person's home. Natural maple wood frame or cherry stained would be my preference. The natural maple will have a wider application in peoples' homes, while I believe the cherry would set off the image best.

You may also consider simply matting and mounting it and leaving it unframed but shrink-wrapped. That allows the buyer the flexibility to select their own frame to exactly fit their home/office decor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Steve on all counts. I think that a dark wood frame would draw your eye out and away from the print and to the frame.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a frame I came up with, from my online source. It's ash with a maple finish. I'd rather have it framed in advance, due to many people having no idea where they would go to get a frame for an odd size or thinking a frame for this size would cost a lot. I can get this frame for just $26.65. It comes 1" wide, which should be plenty considering how narrow the print is. I'd add a 2" mat to finish it off. Thanks for the advice.

3379636057_6458eb87c2_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, frame color/material is a completely individual decision, which is why it's so hard for a photographer to settle on a frame him/herself, because if you please yourself you may lose a sale because a client doesn't like the frame, or if you pick any frame based on general trends you may lose the sale for the same reason.

That's why I only frame when it's needed for display purposes, and why I try to offer matted, mounted, unframed prints for sale in the same venue. That way if someone likes my presentation they can buy it ready-made. If not, they can have their own framing done.

Mike, I've sold a lot of off-sized prints, and large prints, and people who tend to buy them big or at odd dimensions tend also to know what to do with them and that they're going to have to spend the jing for custom framing.

That being said, the frame you showed, big and inexpensive may or may not have the quality to hold up over time. It's a bit of a crapshoot.

When it comes to materials, one can think "art" or one can think "bargain," and in my experience there's very little overlap between the two. You'll certainly do what you think is best (as you should), and for that reason I hesitated to offer any advice at all. Just more food for thought. smilesmile

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That being said, the frame you showed, big and inexpensive may or may not have the quality to hold up over time. It's a bit of a crapshoot.

What can be the difference between a bargain wood frame and a higher priced frame, as long as they're both hardwood? This is new to me, so I really don't know. Is it due to the stain or sealants? Maybe I'll just stick with the black metal frame. They're inexpensive and look pretty darned sharp and are much less complicated. smile

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No input or opinion for you Mike, but nice idea on the composite shot. I really like the way that turned out!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Mike. Considering I got 2 of these, due to having 2 printed on one sheet, I'll have one framed and one just matted and mounted. People love choices. The selling point behind this is, it would look good anywhere. It could go above a large window, a large doorway or above a fireplace mantle. Not too many prints would work in these places.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike, aside from the hardwood, the quality is in the construction. With a frame, the joints are uber important. Do they have any gapping at all? Are all four angles perfectly cut and mated, and are they both glued and braced with fasteners?

That type of thing is what I'm talking about. I'm not trying to discourage you, simply hoping to help out a bit with some perspective on the long term. A poorly constructed frame will hurt, rather than help, a sale.

But there are plenty of good frame outlets online, and if you've gotten solidly built frames from this company before, I reckon you could buy with some confidence.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
    • Perfect that awnsers my question. Why spend $250 when I could spend $150 on a new lazer bit and cuts faster, it’s more durable but still about same weight and a chipper but. Really a no brainer. What are you seeing for drilling time with that 8 inch lazer?
    • From my experience one of my only complaints with the Kdrill is how slow it drills. It more than gets the job done but my laser 8” is faster.
    • So I’ve always fished 8 inch holes but really why? Most Anything can fit through a 6 inch hole anyway. I was thinking maybe for next season of getting a 6 or 8 inch I drill and putting it on my 1.5hp solo. Right now it’s about 24lb which is light but with the k drill it would be lighter yet. My question is would I be getting any more speed out of a k drill vs regular SM chipper bit? And then I can invest in a nice Milwaukee fuel and there we go.
  • MWO