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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
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portageman

Dog food

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We just brought home our brand new Llewellin English Setter. She has been great so far. We have been feeding her Purina Pro Plan and have had no problems. I looked at the nutritional info on the label and it seems fine. I am just curious what everybody else is feeding their dogs.

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We are getting ours there, too. We got one last year as well, Carla & Greg are great people. Are you going to attend any training seminars?

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Another vote for Eukenuba. Its been great!

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NutriSource Large Breed Puppy for my lab. I'll be transitioning to an adult NutriSource with the next bag I buy. High quality, Minnesota-made, and makes for good, solid turds.

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I was on NutriSource, but I think my lab is allergic to some of the grain he was shedding terribly and his coat was losing some of its sparkle.

I switched to "Taste of the Wild" Big change to an all natural food with no grain but his turd size has been cut in half and his coat and shedding is much better.

Call of the wild is rated a six out of six stars on dog food anaylysis dot com

Cost is 39.00 for a 35 lb bag i believe.

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I switched to "Call of the Wild" Big change to an all natural food with no grain but his turd size has been cut in half and his coat and shedding is much better.

I assume you mean "Taste of the Wild" smile

I was looking at a bag of that stuff over the weekend. It looks like a great ingredient list for not much more than I'm paying now. NutriSource costs me about $1 a pound.

I'm happy with NutriSource, and my dog seems to be too, but you know how it is...always wondering if there's something better to get.

At the other extreme, after I looked at the bag of TotW I found a bag of a food called "Doggie Bag" that was only $12 or $13 for a 40lb. bag! Top two ingredients were wheat middlings and corn meal. I think wheat middlings is a euphemism for floor sweepings. Recommended feeding amount was twice what I'm feeding now (4.5 to 7.75 cups/day for a 50 to 75lb dog, as I recall). I wonder if there could be a worse dog food.

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We were using Purina Pro Plan for large breed puppies for our German Short Hair pups but recently switched to Kirkland puppy food available only at Costco.

Chicken and Rice mix. Recipe is virtually identical to several of the premium brand chicken/rice foods but the cost is about 50% less. 20lb puppy bag for about $11. With two dogs that's substantical savings with no sacrifice in quality.

Our dogs are doing great on it, energy level is high, coat is shiny etc but I must admit the change of food did cause some extra gas at first but its improving now they are used to it.

I researched it on several web sites that review pet foods and the Kirkland brand was classified as "by far the least expensive brand of good quality dry dog food".

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I edited my post i did mean Taste of the Wild......

I have heard very good things about the kirkland brand also, same as diamond i believe.

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When looking for a good healthy pet food, read the label and ingredients closely. You should look for pet food that:

1. Is natural healthy - contains natural ingredients with NO artificial addititves or preservatives.

2. Has quality proteins - contains chicken and fish meals with no animal by-products for maximum protein availability. Avoid items that list/contain "by-products". Also products that list "whole chicken" is not any better than chicken meal. Whole chicken is approx 85% water. Meal is rendered from the animal tissue and has the water removed in processing.

3. Has whole grains - contains rice, oats and barley with no corn, wheat or soy for maximum digestibility and smaller stools. Corn, wheat and soy is usually positioned as "fillers".

4. Begins with a meat/meal product and not a grain on the ingredient listing.

4. Has natural antioxidants.

5. Has chelated minerals.

6. Has Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids.

I feed my dog Native and been very happy with the food and results. Native is made by Kent Feeds (Iowa). The brand is not easily found--I have my local Tractor Supply store special order it for me. I also believe RFG distributes the product, so if any shops are a customer of RFG, they should be able to get the brand. Native comes in various stages---each stage contains higher levels/ratios of fats and proteins, but the same base ingredients. During the off season, I feed my dog Native 1. During the hunting season, I move him up to Native 3. For what its worth, Native is one of the official pet food sponsors of Pheasants Forever.

Another similar brand of Native is called Haven Naturals (made by Kent). It is found in many local grocery stores in the Mpls area (except Rainbow Foods). This is another quality pet food I would recommend highly.

Many of the larger brands have cheapened their product (over the last few years) and are not the same quality as they used to be. They are charging more for the product, but have added by-products, corns, flours and fillers.

Net net, while natural pet foods cost more, they will likely save money over time due to needing to eat/feed less, may suffer fewer illnesses (potentially reducing vet expenditures), have smaller firmer stools and may shed less.

Woollman

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Purina Pro Plan, adult, Chicken and Rice. We have a 2 yr old Black Lab. Tried the lamb but she didn't like it.

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My lab turns 1 in a couple weeks, have been using Purina large breed puppy - no complaints. Probably will make the switch to the above mentioned Purina adult chicken and rice.

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Picking up your puppy in June? You must be getting a Suzy pup. She is a great looking dog. Our pup is from the Bella/King litter.

I dont plan on doing any trainging seminars, but I am having Greg do the intro to bird and gun in July or August.

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Yep, we are getting a Suzy pup. We thought about the Bella/King litter, but the time was better for Suzy's litter. I am a brittany guy, and have been to some training with Greg & he got me to try a Llewellin for my daughter. Hope everything goes well for you.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
    • Perfect that awnsers my question. Why spend $250 when I could spend $150 on a new lazer bit and cuts faster, it’s more durable but still about same weight and a chipper but. Really a no brainer. What are you seeing for drilling time with that 8 inch lazer?
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