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Lipless Crank rod, Deep diving crank rod for weed edges

34 posts in this topic

Im looking to get a couple new rods this year for these two applications. Any suggestions for length and actions?

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I use the same rod for both.. but as I always say, what works great for someone may or may not for another.

My deep crank rod and trap rod. is a 7' MH Shimano Crucial TC4 Crankbait rod.

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Well I'm sure you will get a few different responses for the lipless rod, I for one switch this rod from time to time depending on where I'm fishing the lipless. Most times I use a 6'6"MH because I like the shorter stiff rod for fishing through the weeds, but I also go with a 7'M sometimes if I want a little more distance out of my casts or if it's a cleaner bottom. I don't like the slow action rods for this lure, I like to feel the buzz through the rod. This is a very touchy lure though as far as fish throwing the bait.

For the deep crankbait rod I like a 7M glass rod. The composites are also very nice.

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Yes, lipless cranks are very touchy baits for sure as far as getting tossed.

I made the mistake of fishing a Red Eye Shad on my 6'-6" MH F graphite rod and it cost me a fish that would have contended for the state record. And I am not joking on that. The fish hit two cranks into the retrieve and I had blasted the thing out there with the wind as an aid over a rock hump. She came out of the water slashed one way and then the other and I watched the red eye shad fly at least 15 yards to the east.

With that being said, I have been and will be fishing them on a glass rod with a slower action until eternity. I have a 7'-0" MH S glass rod that works great for them. The give in the rod helps keep the fish buttoned up when they jump out of the water and shake to and fro.

Funny thing is, the same day on the same lure when ripping it free from the weeds, I actually snagged a minnow. I still would have rather caught that hog of a bass though.

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I agree, I have lost plenty of nice fish on the lipless with a 6'6"MH, but I'm a slow learner frown lol

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I still have nightmares watching that fish throw the bait. Seriously.

It reminded me a lot of watching the coverage of the big fish caught during the elite series event on Falcon last year.

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I have problems with my 7' MH being just too stiff for lipless cranks (#8 Rattle Raps). I have had a lot of fish come unbuttoned with that rod. When I'm throwing #7's or #5's I usually use a Guide Series M spinning rod and I don't lose a lot of fish. I saw some of those TC4's at the boat show yesterday and one may be my next purchase.

Thanks for the thread,

Paul

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Last year I bought a 7' MH Ugly Stick Lite for my son to use while we're trolling for eyes. The 8'+ rods were just too long for him to handle. Anyway, I took a real liking to this rod for this exact purpose (medium/deep cranks and lipless). Caught a ton of fish with this rod last year and never had one come unbuttoned. For functionality, price($30.00 or so), and it's versatility, it's been a suprisingly decent rod.

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I see a lot of people talking about MH actions.. Please note my Crucial TC4 Rod, is far from a normal MH rod.. its a much slower taper.

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Im currently using my 6'8'' Medium All-Star ASR, I like the rod being shorter, a little shorter than 7' because I feel like I have more control and it makes the power feel a little stronger than the Medium it is. I do however lose a little casting distance which may not be the best for deep diving cranks, but works well for me when Im using lipless...But like others have said what works for one person may not work for another!

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For lipless baits I use a 6'6" Team Daiwa medium moderatre composite rod, and a 7' medium moderate St Croix SCIV that I built. Both have a relatively slow action to them, meaning they bend way down into the blank. I prefer this action for keeping fish hooked up on baits that are easy for the fish to throw. I use the St. Croix for deep cranks as well, the 6'6" is a little short for my liking to sling deep cranks. I would like to get an 8 footer or even a 7'6" for deep cranks, just for added distance on casts, and the ability to kneel and reel to get the baits deeper.

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I use a 7' all glass rod for cranks. I like a rod this is basically dead. What I mean by "dead" is that I only want to feel a dull vibration from the lure, and if I hook a fish the rod just basically loads up more. There really aren't any opportunities to set the hook with a crank, and the will set the hook themselves as soon as they change direction. So, you really don't need sensitivity. I want forgiveness. When, the fish makes a run or jump the whole system flexes so those little, skinny, tangled hooks don't rip free.

The downside of these rods is big crankbaits wear you out. And, it's tough to tear baits off of weeds.

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What type of line do you plan on using? That can make a difference when choosing length and action.

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Hiya -

I don't fish lipless cranks a ton, so others will have far more educated opinions. Frankly, I use the same rod I use for spinnerbaits - a 6'10" mod-fast MH and #17 mono. It works well enough for as much as I use it that way.

For deep weed edges, which as some of you know I fish a lot, I use a couple different rods.

One is a 7'11" med-heavy power moderate action All Star. I've had it forever, but I think they still make the rod. It has a very light tip and a very parabolic action. I use this rod for fishing heavy deep weeds like coontail clumps and thick cabbage edges with deep diving baits like DT-16s, big Bandits, Poes 400s, and DD-22s. I fish these on 20# braid, usually with a 5 foot leader - usually 12# Berkley Big Game - connected with a back to back Uni-knot. The braid really helps me feel my way through thick weed edges and rip the bait loose when I hang up. The mono leader puts a little bit of stretch into the system which I think helps keep fish hooked up. How much it helps I don't know, but it makes me feel better anyhow. With the parabolic action of the rod, and the length, I don't lose many fish. With the long rod and the braid, I can cast baits a mile. Really, this rod doesn't see the light of day until late July most years.

I also use a 7' MH power mod-fast rod for medium sized baits - stuff like DT-10s, RC3s, Strike King Pro Series 5s (which is a bait I'm really getting to like, btw...) - or big baits in more sparse cover. I tend to throw these baits up on flats or over the top of beds more, picking the edges rather than running down them, so bombing long casts isn't as big a deal (although I can when I need to unless I'm casting into the wind a lot). I use #12 Fluoro on this rod.

If I had to get away with only one of these two, it'd be the 7'11" for sure. It does fine with Fluoro too. But - why would I use one rod when two would do? wink

Cheers,

Rob Kimm

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I throw crank baits a great deal up here in the Brainerd area. The two crank bait rods that I use the most are both G-Loomis CBR 845's Med Hvy Mod fast Action 7' Crank bait series rods. I have been using these rods for 3 years and have had really great success with them.

On one of my Pflueger President's I have 15lb power pro braid and I do at times use a leader. I use this rod for fishing weed edges and ripping through cabbage.

On the other reel I have been experimenting with different lines. Currently I have 10lb Berkely Trilene Sensation on the reel. It seems to work well with the lipless crank baits and smaller deep diving baits. Switched to it late in the fall so I need more time on the water to be fair as far as judging the line.

Sure looking forward to blue water now that my fish house is off the lake.

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Quote:
I made the mistake of fishing a Red Eye Shad on my 6'-6" MH F graphite rod and it cost me a fish that would have contended for the state record. And I am not joking on that. The fish hit two cranks into the retrieve and I had blasted the thing out there with the wind as an aid over a rock hump. She came out of the water slashed one way and then the other and I watched the red eye shad fly at least 15 yards to the east.

What a Whopper!

I would say, try any rod you want and let the fish tell you what they want. A stiff rod with a no stretch line will cause the lure to hammer. A glass rod with Mono will deaden this action. Let the fish tell you what they want. If one hits the lure and throws in OH well you now know where the fish are.

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Thanks guys, I have been experimenting with a trio of rods for those two applications the last couple years. A 7' mh, a 7 m shimano clarus, and a 6'6'' mh compre. I really haven't found one that i think is "it" for either application. I like the MH for ripping baits through the weeds, but i don't like the lack of forgiveness, and i like the forgiveness in the M but it hasn't performed as well in the weeds for me. I might have to "hold" a few of the rods you guys mentioned to see what i like.

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You really gotta take line into account as with a crank (also depending on reel due to speed of crank) you need some forgiveness so you do not rip the bait from the fish (out of its mouth).

There are really 4 factors in this

Power of rod

Action of rod

Stretch of line

Speed of the bait

These need to be balanced so there is some "give" in the "system."

The faster the crank and less stretch in the line the more mod action you need.

I personally like a Medium rod with mod-fast action with fluro or braid if near heavy weeds with fluro leader. I use a 6.3:1 reel mainly but if I go to a 5.3:1 reel I use a MH mod-fast rod or Med Fast with same line and with a DD crank these can be a better setup due to torque needed on a lure like a DT16 or 22.

I tend to use a 7' rod most often but with my new love of the Cumara I am gonna have to choose 7'2" or 6'8"...probably will go 7'2".

Just remember the power of the rod is part of an overall "system."

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Not to repeate myself, and some already know this, but David Dudley uses a flipping stick for deep cranks. I thought this was interesting.

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I think it's very interesting! I don't think I could do it. I am in the process of finding a new deep crank rod, but having a hard time finding one that I love. I would think with a flipping rod and 10-12 pound test, you would run the risk of breaking off. I agree I don't want a buggy whip, but not sure I could do the other extreme either...

I have to think he's in the minority on that choice.

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Did anyone ask if he feels that affects lure depth?

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Hiya -

The flipping stick and heavy line is an interesting option, that's for sure. I suspect where he's fishing might have something to do with it. If it's heavy brush/trees, I can maybe see it.

OTOH, look at the recent FLW event at Guntersville - how many guys talked about getting dumped by big fish on lipless cranks during that event? Dudley obviously knows what he's doing and why, but personally I'm not going to be throwing crankbaits on a flipping stick any time soon.

In fact, for a completely different opinion, go check out Bass Fan's piece on David Fritz. He won the Guntersville event, and part of the reason is he kept his fish buttoned up. He has some pretty adamant opinions on cranking gear, and I don't think yo can argue his credibility on the subject smile

Cheers,

Rob Kimm

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Saw that article. Like I said, I think Dudley is for sure in the minoroty on this.

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I tend to use a bunch of different sticks for lipless out of laziness - whatever is in my hand at that time. For deep cranks I have a 7 ft. e-glass rod which is a blend of fiberglass/graphite that I really like. Should use it for lipless all the time too but don't. Seems kind of heavy for that application. If I had a 6' or 6'6" one too I would probably use that one for lipless all the time.

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