Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
RonWBasser

SM Mag 2000 starting and running question ??

Recommended Posts

I finally gave in and replaced my 15 year old eskimo with a new mag 2000.

I ran in yesterday for the first time. Mixed normal (not syn) oil at 40:1 and fresh gas. It was a little hard to start but seemed to warm up ok. However it stumbles, kind of bogs when I give it gas (throttle). Also it will eventually slow down and quit if left idling, standing straight up. It seems to run better at about 1/2 choke, no bog when hitting the gas. It will also run ok if I give it a little gas once in awhile

Anybody have any ideas? Or is this normal for a new one that has not been run much. It was warmed up good during all of this, had been running about 10 minutes at least.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Jiffy Stealth STX.. mine runs the exact same as you described your Mag2000

Mine was also purchased brand new and has now probably only drilled 40 holes.. max

I was told it was because its new and just working itself in.

I always leave the choke at half. Runs great then....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I heard in the last year or two they have leaned them out quite a bit to pass emissions testing. You may want to either adjust it a bit richer or take it to strikemaster and have them richen it a bit. I just got a new lazer and it seems a bit lean but not too bad. Once I warm it for about 30 seconds and drill one hole it runs real good. I don't think your problem is from breaking in. Mine has run like it does since I got it and I've drilled at least 60 holes so far so I think it is past the break in period. I am running amsoil sabre at 80:1 so it's possible that if I had it at 40:1 it would act as lean as yours. I an not suggesting you go to 80 to 1 with the oil you have. Only with sabre. I would highly recommend sabre.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks eyebjim. I do plan on running the 80:1 amsoil at some point. How long does this "break in" period need to be before switching it to amsoil 80:1 ?

I'll try it out for awhile and see if it makes any difference, but like you say the emissions deal might be the thing. I think I can richen it a little on my own. Now that I think about it my little weed trimmer does the same thing. Now I might have solved that too. I blamed the trimmer on bad gas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ran a couple of tanks of saber through mine at 50:1 and then went to 80:1. I've run it for 2.5 seasons now without an issue. It does need to warm up for a minute or so before drilling otherwise I have the bogging issue when drilling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started at 80:1 right out of the box. I plan on going to 100:1 after this gas can is empty. Even at 80:1 I get a little oil comming form the muffler so I am not too worried about breaking in at 80:1 and if you have already run at 40:1 for a while you should be god to go at 80:1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just bought a Lazer yesterday think I'll have the same issue? I'm gassing it up tomorrow. Should I run the recommended 40:1 or something else? Any pointers for the break in? First gas auger I ever bought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For break in it is good to idle it til good and warm and then rev partial throttle periodically with some full throttle too. Try to give it a little of all levels of throttle. Do this for about 10 minutes and then go drill some holes. I wasn't too concerned with mine I broke it in drilling holes. I had fish to catch or so I thought. I have had no problems. If you want to be extra cautious maybe run the 40:1 strikemaster oil for a tank and then go to Amsoil at 80:1. I am sure strikemaster would recommend a very coutious approach just in case. Like 24:1 (YUK!).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

can someone tell me where to get this amsoil sabre. have a sm and want to make the switch. i have also read that about the emissions being tighted yp a bit. they did say its on the '07 and newer models. mine is from '05 and will idle all day long if i let it. how ever i am getting that goo out the exhaust that leaks all over everything is that just unburnt oil/fuel ? saw it also on the 2009 infisherman mag cover. the sm lazer mag is spewing the same goo out . not to worried just looking at long term and performance switching to amsiol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do the above mentioned mixture recommendations hold true for all the SM augers? I have a XL-3000 that is 3 yrs. old. I have always ran the SM recommended 24:1.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

jltimn------I went to fleet farm & napa today and both have amsoil BUT, they DO NOT carry the "SABER"..They only had the AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS in the stores.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since I started this I figured I would post an update. The second time out with the mag2000 seemed to go better. It seemed to stay running better and not as boggy. Sure cuts a fast hole compared to my old eskimo.

I also noticed last night that FF didn't have the saber oil in the Brainerd store.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can order any AMSOIL products direct:

AMSOIL Online Store Products shipped direct from the closest regional distribution center (Superior, WI for most FMers) with 1 or 2 business day delivery via standard UPS ground to your door.

(FM sponsor - ad in Automotive forum)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ron I had the same problem with my SM 2000. I took to the guys at SM. They told me that the crab is to lean for EPA reasons. They brought it in the back and replaced card and made adjustments, and it know runs like a champ. This was all covered under warranty. The boys at SM service are second to none.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks riverside. I will be right by them on Mar 6th. I'll take it along that day and stop in and let them have a look.

It isn't as bad now as the first day I ran it. That first day it was giving me fits. It would shut right off after drilling a hole when it returned to an idle. The more I've have run it, and we're still not talking about very much, it is working better.

Thanks for the help on this to everyone who responded.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Big A,

I got a buddy that just bought the 3 hp stx, it ran the same as yours right away too. I have the 3 hp stealth, bought it 5 or 6 years ago, that also did the same thing.

What i did to mine is played with the adjusters on the carb until i got her runnin like a champ.

Did it with buds and that also now runs like a champ.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Mag 2000 does the same bogging, won't idle thing.......can somebody tell me/us how to adjust the carb. to eliminate this problem?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Mag 2000 does the same bogging, won't idle thing.......can somebody tell me/us how to adjust the carb. to eliminate this problem?

Is yours fairly new?

I might still try to adjust mine myself, I haven't even looked at it yet. You richen it up, but there is a method to it that I read somewhere on exactly how to do it. If I can find it I will post it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got a SM last year too - It ran really pour - bogging doen ect, brought it back and it go a little better still not great - I brought it back again this year and now does it cut! Holy cow - It does need to warm up a little, but it should not bog down when you hit it after it is warmed up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Here is my story from about a month ago on LOW.  Two of us fishing in my wheelhouse.  I went outside to grab a beverage and in doing so I walked next door to our buddies, 25 feet away.  I hadn't even fully shut the door when two snowmobiles show up one stopping at each house.  Basically sleds were rolling and they were both stepping off, you'd think they were in the I500 race at a refueling stop.  I opened the door and was asked how fishing was, I said poor very poor.  He asked which house I was fishing in I said the other one.  He told me to go back there and get my license out his partner would be checking me out.  I walked back over and was told "well you already know what you did wrong"  I was like my lines are down, I haven't even been gone 5 minutes.  They would have had to see me walk over since they came from out of nowhere.  He leaves and talks to my buddies and they confirm my story.  He comes back and says "I will give you a warning" and proceeds to write our names down in a little notebook.  Gives us back our licenses and they both take off to our neighbors.   Week later my buddy who was fishing with me gets a ticket in the mail for extra lines.  Stated on the ticket was to call in 7 days for the amount.  He calls and its $135.  You can contest it online or go to court.  Of course we are both thinking this is a total crock.  He emails the CO and he actually emailed back saying to call him.  He called many times with no return call.  Finally a week goes by and he's able to get ahold of him.  He claimed he talked to over 300 people and couldn't remember everything he said.  Ticket was thrown out.  Still how many people got hooked over the weekend?  Pretty shady way to conduct yourself.    Yes technically I was in the wrong, but if your going to write a ticket, write a ticket don't send one a week later.  Or at least ticket the right person.  Didn't seem right to me....
    • A big thank you to your friend for his service and a way to go on the big pike on light line.
    • Did you put the new bit on your old head?
    •   So what about when you have a rattle wheel down and go outside to get a fish on your tip up?   Same thing as a wiz or smoke?  You can’t see it and might be gone for 10 minutes.   I only ask to be argumentative. 
    •  I never disliked my original ion but once I tried the new drill with the centering point I ordered the drill immediately. 
    • Just my 2 cents....   I bought an ion when I built the wheel house to keep the smoke plume out of the living quarters. I have had nothing but good luck with the system. It has always drilled all the holes that I need both inside the house and out hole hoping. You do need to keep the battery warm, but that is Li-Ion for you.   BUT.... my dad has a severe issue with the Dewalt salesman at his shop. He has pretty much every yellow tool that you can own and was wanting to try a drill setup. I thought it was silly to have both a K-drill and ION in our arsenal givien that both of us also have gas augers, so I decided to pick up an IceMaster adapter just to see what the electric drill craze is all about. I pulled my ION bit off and put it on Dad's brushless 20v high-end Dewalt and was very impressed. It really cuts nice with that ION bit, very smooth with no jerking. I have a hard time believing that the K-drill would be any better, but I have not compared the two side by side. For kicks, I decided to try the drill and adapater on my Strikemaster Mora..... YIKES! It wouldn't take you long to burn up ANY brand drill with that Mora.   To compare the two setups... the ION is definitely nicer for reopening old holes or widening holes that have narrowed over night. This is mainly due to the width of the handles versus the amount of torque that it takes to reopen holes. On the other hand, the drill is better at getting new holes perfectly centered on rough ice due to the fact that you can start a hole slowly with the variable speed of the drill vs the "on or off" capability of the ION head.Out on the ice, I think that drill head vs ION head performed the same.... Yes, the drill is a bit lighter, but the ION will do more holes (3 AH ION @ 40v / 5 AH Dewalt @ 20v).   SO.... now what are we going to do? I was able to find someone close to me that was upgrading their legacy ION bit for the new ION-X (primarily for the centering point). I was able to pick up the bit for $45. Now we have both a complete ION  and drill setup, and only have $70 invested into the drill setup since my dad already owned the drill itself.    Sorry for the long post, but I have a feeling that there are going to be many others upgrading their ION bits and selling their old legacy bits, and from what I have tested it really seems to work well on drills, especially for someone that already owns a drill and is on a budget.      
    • First possum I've ever seen in my yard..
    • LOL I just got checked yesterday and asked him this same question. I asked if i had pagers on each line could I keep them down. He said as the law is written a Rod or rattle wheel is considered a line down and you must be able to visually see the line at all times. Different from a tipup where you must be within the vicinity but you don't need a constant visual on them.   So I'm thinking I may just set up my tip-ups inside my shack with beepers when I'm not in there
    • The CO that checked us on LOW this winter told us if you go out to the bathroom or a smoke it is OK, if you go next door to visit it is a ticket...
    •   Member of ADVRider. Rode with lots of guys on there. I just put out a feeler on here once in a while.
  • MWO