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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

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DuckDog

Insulation

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I just started to finish my basement (not going to hurry at all). The basement has fiberglass insulation non-faced throughout the outside walls. I was wondering what people thought of taking this stuff out and getting the foam/spray stuff.

Also between the ceiling and the upstairs floor should I put fiberglass insulation?

Thanks all!

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We havent gotten to finishing our basement yet, however when we built 4 years ago we did the main floor. I used 6" fiberglass rolls in the ceiling because the living room is directly under the master bedroom. It not only keeps the heat on the floor that is heated, but also allows me to watch TV on "Normal" volume...with out the "can you turn it down?" speach.

We also insulated the walls between the laundry room and the bathrooms on the main floor and upstairs to help with noise. If I had the money I would have tried to do spray foam on all of it, but cant have everything.

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I just started to finish my basement (not going to hurry at all). The basement has fiberglass insulation non-faced throughout the outside walls. I was wondering what people thought of taking this stuff out and getting the foam/spray stuff.

Also between the ceiling and the upstairs floor should I put fiberglass insulation?

Thanks all!

My fathers house is insulated in foam... Its pretty slick!

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Is there one that is better then the other? What if you have a water leak in the future? Is there on that is better to keep mold our of the house?

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ive been told that closed cell is better than the open cell, is it really i done know!!

so there is only really 2 kinds that are sprayed: open cell and closed cell. might want to do some research on the 2 to get the best choice.

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If it is an old house just put fiberglass back in. I prefer the paperback. The gig is not really out on the foam. We will find in the future how good or bad it is. Makes remodeling in the future really tough. Old houses leak air new ones run the air exchanger, horse a piece. Have seen foam that did not adhere on a few occasions. Not much r value there.

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What about that spray in stuff that you can buy from the Home place and get the sprayer to use at no cost.

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As a thermal tec. It's not cost effectivto sprary foam in basement wall's. A's for the ceilling,That's just sound so your choice. Just rebatt the wall's Good luck.

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i also vote to re-batt the walls. or even the styrofoam pink stuff or white beadboard, if against block. thats great plenty, your already underground.

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I just remodeled the lower unit of my rental property last year (1950's bldg). I had the walls and rims spray foam insulated, WOW! The unit is vacant so I set the thermostat to 55 degrees, never gets there, the temp has stayed around 65 just from the heat from the boiler room and the unit above it. The foam really stregnthened the walls too, if I could have afforded it I would have sprayed the ceiling too (used batts). I say thumbs up if it is in your budget! just get a good contractor and check references.

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A cheaper way and a little more expensive then batting would becall blowing insulation with a netting material its like blowing your attic except you blow it into walls, you attach the net to the studs then blow in the insulation gives yu a great r valuebut its a little more expensive then batting but way less expensive then foam spray, either way fom or blown in ar both really good R values.

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MNwalleye - is that the stuff that you can do yourself; I noticed Home Depot has some stuff that you can buy - then rent the blower

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I think they rent out the machine but you still have to buy the netting, I worked for a company called central insulation out of waconia, but yes rent the machine put up netting and blow, but you do know know you have to mix a little water glue onto the insolation to make it stick. but blowingit in shouldnt be a problem either.

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MNwalleye - is that the stuff that you can do yourself; I noticed Home Depot has some stuff that you can buy - then rent the blower

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
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    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
    • Perfect that awnsers my question. Why spend $250 when I could spend $150 on a new lazer bit and cuts faster, it’s more durable but still about same weight and a chipper but. Really a no brainer. What are you seeing for drilling time with that 8 inch lazer?
    • From my experience one of my only complaints with the Kdrill is how slow it drills. It more than gets the job done but my laser 8” is faster.
    • So I’ve always fished 8 inch holes but really why? Most Anything can fit through a 6 inch hole anyway. I was thinking maybe for next season of getting a 6 or 8 inch I drill and putting it on my 1.5hp solo. Right now it’s about 24lb which is light but with the k drill it would be lighter yet. My question is would I be getting any more speed out of a k drill vs regular SM chipper bit? And then I can invest in a nice Milwaukee fuel and there we go.
  • MWO