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Lund1700Angler

New Strikemaster Lazer Mag Owner

19 posts in this topic

I recently purchased a new Strikemaster power auger. I have taken it out three times and ran about 3/4 of a tank of gas through it. I have noticed that a little bit of oil is coming out around the muffler area. Not a lot, but a little. Is this normal? Also it seems that the auger has to be straight up and down or it binds in the bottom of the hole and stops the drill. Is there something to correct this?

Thanks

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Sounds like your mixing the gas and oil to rich. And either drill straighter or maybe try and pull back a little when getting to the bottom.

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excellent choice what inch blade I have 10in

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Switch oil to Amsoil Saber mixed 80:1 you won't see that oil from the muffler any longer. I used to have that hole problem with my Strikemasters to, since I got my Nils no more crooked holes for some reason.

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I have an 8" drill. I mixed 1 gallon of gas with i bottle of strikemaster oil supposed to be mixed to 40:1. I think some of it is getting used to the auger. I have always used a hand auger so I really like the ease of drilling now.

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Once it has broken in then switch to the lighter mix. It is normal for that to happen during the break in period. Dont run the light mix until break in is done.

As for it binding, the blades are still a little too sharp, once you have made a couple hundred holes it will be smooth as silk. You may have to lift up at the end of the hole in the meantime and it will go through easier.

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How will I know when the break in period has been accomplished. Also, I should mix a richer mix, like 80:1 for the break in period?

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The 40-1 is a richer mix, more oil to the amount of gas. It says in the owners manual how to break it in. I cant seem to find mine but I think it was either a one or two full tanks of fuel. You could always give D-Rock a call too, they will know right off hand.

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I have a lazer mag express which did the same thing. I recently switched to amsoil saber and the problem is solved as well as made the auger run better too. mix is 100:1

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I would agree with the oil mix may be a bit rich. I would also suggest to try some Amsoil Sabre as this stuff is very good and smokeless if mixed correctly.

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Amsoil Saber is the way to go. I also had the same binding problem with my auger. I called stikemaster and they told me that they have had alot of blades comming from thier blade manufacture with to agressive pitch on the blade. this causes binding at the bottom of the hole. They sent me a new set of blades and it now cuts like a hot knife through budda, no binding at the bottom

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It took my a long time to get used to my strikemaster. Here is just a couple things I have had trouble with. #1 the toggle on/off switch wiring sucks and will break on you, I re-wired it and zip tied it in a much better location. #2 the decompression button is worthless. #3 To prime just pull the throttle handle twice and then start. #4 while drilling more then 1ft and the ice chips build up pull up on the auger to clear the hole and you will go through the bottom of the ice a lot easier.

Hope this help. That on/off switch wiring is a must!! Don't want to be up on Upper Red lake and snap yours off like I did. It sucks to try to hold wires while trying to start it lol.

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Amsoil Saber is the way to go. I also had the same binding problem with my auger. I called stikemaster and they told me that they have had alot of blades comming from thier blade manufacture with to agressive pitch on the blade. this causes binding at the bottom of the hole. They sent me a new set of blades and it now cuts like a hot knife through budda, no binding at the bottom

I had this problem also where the blades where too agressive, well i was drilling some holes and i got to to bottom of the ice where it would bind and it snapped the gears, strikemaster fixed it all for nothing.

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My strikemaster shows a little oil on the muffler still...I probably should make the Amsoil switch as well. I sheared off a screw last weekend when the blades bound at the bottom of a hole. But I have also found that if you let the auger do all of the work and don't try to force it down, it seems to burn through those last few inches much more smoothly and drill a much straighter hole.

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i had a new lazer mag last year that binded as well.they sent me new blades and it didn't make any difference.so they sent me a complete new flighting that was made in sweden not china.what a difference the welding was better and flighting was heaverier.they said mine was out of pitch.

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So mine binds as well, it will actually get stuck if you have any downwards pressure on the auger. Would you suggest I do something about this? I thought it was almost normal for these augers?

If so, do I have to mail my auger bit to strikemaster? Or if there are new blades sent do I mail my old ones to them?

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i would call them.you don't have to send your old bit back just show proof that you destroyed it.

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I also am going to call them, I have taken my auger out on 4 excursions and it binds quite often. I am afraid that I am going to do some interior damage if I don't get the issue figured out.

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I have always owned Jiffy's in the past, and love them. However since I now live in Minnesota and SM is only about 25 minutes from my house I made the switch to a 10" Laser mag Express.

I called SM with a few questions on my Lazer. Question 1 was, can I install a primer. No. But the go around to this was answered in an earleir post on this thread. Question 2, How do I adjust the governor, and question 3 was am I going to hurt the gearing on this auger with it binding at the bottom of the hole almost every time I use it.

They had me bring it in. Within 15 minutes they adjusted the governor and adjusted the flight/drill. The flight/drill was not plum. They said it will no longer bind at the bottom of the hole, but I got sick later that night and have been out of commision since. Hopefully it will not be binding anymore.

Either way, I am impressed with their Customer Service. No charge either.

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