Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

Dog throwing up

9 posts in this topic

Lets start off by stating that my dog is going to the vet today for x rays. However the issue is the my dog has been throwing up everything she eats for the past three days. She is acting totally normal and is the typical lab when it comes to food. She does the dance everytime its feeding time but then three to four hours later up it comes. I've reduced the amount to 1/4 of a cup but that didn't work either. All she is throwing up is her food, no other "things" or the yellow bile, just her food. Anybody have similar experience? She just won't keep anything down but wants to constantly eat and play. Thanks.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Weird. Is she "going #2" normally? I'd be concerned that she might have eaten something she shouldn't (a ball or something).

Please let us know what the vet figures out.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

My dog had the exact same thing this fall. Unfortunately, it went on for 3 months and she didn't make it. The vets couldnt figure anything out. 8yr old yellow lab. We thought maybe lead poisoning from tainted dog food maybe? Your story sounds pretty similar to what we saw. She acted normal, even went out a few times grouse hunting with me. But in the last few days you could really see her fade.

The only thing she could keep down were fried eggs and toast. Not sure what else you've tried.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well got her back from the vet last week and so far so good. Although the Vet never found anything wrong as the tests were all negative. I did stop feeding her the Nutrisource and have her on soft food. She is still eating like a horse and drink water like she should. So in the end, I'm not sure what she had or has but she's keeping her food down and doing her thing. I'm hoping everything is for the better now but obviously if not, I'm glad the U of M isn't to far and I'm very fimilar with how they do things, fingers crossed!

Very sorry for your loss Augie...I was almost there once and I really don't want to ever be there!! It's unfortuante that we can never say never though~

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got done with the exact same scenario. Dog is acting normal, wants to eat. My dog would eat and then drink some water. Usually within 15 minutes he is throwing up. Cleaned the water dish thinking maybe bacteria or something, same thing happened. Usually feed two times per day, I increased that to three but spread throughout the day. Seemed to help. The throwing up went on for about a week or better, and now it hasn't happened again.

Poor dog, he would look at you after throwing up like he had done something terribly wrong...not his fault...even though a couple times it was on the carpet! He's been fine since. Weird.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm just hoping there isn't anything wrong with the food as in the past. It does seem strange that they are doing this but change it up a bit and they get back to normal. Makes you wonder if by feeding a dog the same food for many years if it actually does something to the GI system at one point or another. Obviously I am not a vet but the human body can and does do miraculous things without medicine. We as humans do and always eat different types of food...something doesn't agree with us, we tend not to eat it again but with dog or pets in general...there tends not to be a whole ton of healthy options. At times one wishes he/she could read the pets mind to a tee to find out what is wrong before it becomes to late. Very tough being a pet owner at times.

Very glad your pup is better. I know that I'm going to keep her on the vet recommended GI soft food for awhile...just a bland type of soft food with beef and rice. She eats it like it's her last meal still, my little moose!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Posts


      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.


      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.


      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.


      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
    • Try a compression check. And make sure the choke is opening all the way.
    • They are not the best out their but for the price and your average person not too bad I guess, Its going to send lead to where its pointed. This is probably what is going to happen he is going to buy a package shoot it for awhile then start upgrading everything to how he wants it and it is going to end up costing way more than if he just built one himself how he wants it.  
    • Hello, well I convinced my brother in-law to pick up my buddies old 1980 185 although pretty sure he said it was bored out to a 200? Here is the deal it's been sitting for a solid 8 years. I know it ran fine before. Not the delema-----   It starts right up (he bought a new carb odd amazon) although it sounds like a jet with high rpms. Looked at the throttle cable that's fine. Floats are fine. So he plugged this hole in the air filter and got it to idle down although when he hit the gas wouldn't get any power. Read a few things online and they tell you to just bypass the filter box and all that so back to amazon we went to get one of those filters that mount right up to the carb and it's still the same issue..   I just haven't seen anything like this? Do you guys have any thoughts or tricks that we/he could try?! Thanks in advance
    • Hi Everyone,  I'm looking into buying my first true fish finder and I'm a little perplex with the mapping card situation.  I'm looking at Humminbird Helix 5's and 7's.  I'm drawn to the autochart feature.  From my understanding, you can record 8 hours of charting onto the internal storage, but, is there any native mapping included on the unit or do I absolutely have to get some sort of mapping chip, zerolines or lake master, or navionics?  Can I store data on a blank SD card?  I've been researching this a lot and haven't found any conclusive answers. Thanks everyone!
    • Saul Good, Man.....  LOL 
    •   When do the not so rare Highjack birds show up?  Oh ah. 
  • Our Sponsors