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Dahitman44

Should I consider a kicker?

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I am considering a kicker for my 185 trophy.

I have a 175 Suzuki on it and put a 90# thrust 24-volt electric, but there are still times I get pretty frustrated trying to stay on a piece of structure.

I considered putting a kicker on right away, but like many people I did not and I am kicking myself.

Is a kicker a smart move?

I understand a suzuki kicker runs about $5,000 with controls and mounted by the pros -- does that sound "about" right?

Any and ALL thoughts on this issue would be great.

Thanks

Hit

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Minnow-man --

That is an idea too. I just hate constantly correcting with gusts and I think the kicker would be easier in those windy conditions.

I have a dealer that is going to shoot me a "deal" I will tell you later about -- just want to make sure that $5,000 is not WAY overpriced as the starting point.

My hard cost will only be $2,500.

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There are a lot of options with kickers also. Not sure about suzuki but with the yamaha u can get the tiller handle to run like a tiller and an electronic controller so u can run it at the wheel. Make sure to get the quick disconnect steering and if u want to disconnect get the round prop protector so u don't hit the big motor. good luck

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$5k for a kicker sounds high. I don't know about the Suz kickers but you should be able to get a Merc Pro Kicker around $3K and a T-8 for less than that. I wouldn't pay much more than that for a Suz kicker.

I use my kicker a lot. Having a kicker and a bowmount electric motor should give you the versatility you need to control your boat in just about any situation.

I run my kicker as a tiller controlled motor, not as a remote tied to the big motor. It's much more responsive as a tiller controlled motor, and I think much more effective for many situations.

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I had a T8 installed for 3200 last summer. Remote controls and all. Very, very happy with the motor. It was my understanding that all the kickers in this HP rating were priced about the same, so 5k sounds way high to me.

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I put a suzuki 9.9th on for around $3k. Mine is setup as a tiller, so I didn't have all the rigging costs your talking about. If I'm not trolling, I generally use the bow mount. When rigging and you need a kicker, you really need it. Sucks not to stay on fish when your catching them!

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Perch --

I actually like running the boat with the wheel -- but I know what you mean by being able to be more responsive.

I tell you -- I am one of those guys that sits in the captain's chair to run the electric as well.

I know it seems goofy, but I do.

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BJB    0

$4200 seems high. I have a 97 hull & 96 motors (Lund & Yammies) & my kicker is a remote T9.9. I bought it a couple years old but if I was building from scratch I'd go a T8 tiller w/ a trollmaster gform the cowboying on the rocks in the fall and have a connecting rod for open basin trolling so I coould run both motors from the wheel when I had plenty of water under the skegs.

I know a friend got a new non-current T8 tiller for $2800 last spring. Rigging is a snap.

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Perch --

I actually like running the boat with the wheel -- but I know what you mean by being able to be more responsive.

I tell you -- I am one of those guys that sits in the captain's chair to run the electric as well.

I know it seems goofy, but I do.

Then you really need to look at the digital trollmaster throttle control. It connects right to the throttle mechanism under the hood of the kicker and gives you much more precise speed adjustments than typical controls will. They're only a few hundred bucks, and I'd say they're a must-have if you're running the kicker from the console.

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What wplate and others have said. Trollmaster and connector. You'll love the ultra-fine control with the trollmaster. Easy to install, on T-8 anyways.

I don't think jumping up to 36 is the answer. Great if you need more power for electric, but you're not gonna troll all day with it, IMO.

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I have a T-8 now and it works great, but I had a 15 hp merc 2-stroke on my old boat and the trollmaster would not work with the motor. The sales person said it would, but after trying eveything the company told me there is some kind of motor noise that made it not work. The connector bar is cheap and and easy to use.

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That's how I run mine, tiller with trollmaster and connector for when I want to run at the console. I find I'm using the tiller handle more and more unless I'm trolling open water. If you are going to run it as a tiller, check out the Merc pro kicker over the Suzuki. The throttle handle with forward/reverse without shifting is a really nice feature. It is a pain to get all the way back onto the motor if you need to throw it in reverse for any reason. My Suzuki was also a little noisy and shook the [PoorWordUsage] out of the boat for the first 20 or so hours of use at certain speeds. It has calmed down quite a bit now and runs a lot quieter.

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I use Merc kickers for the twist-grip shifting on the throttle that fishwater mentioned. It's a great system. I do a lot of slip drifting and vertical fishing with my kicker motor and it is invaluable in that situation.

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Man -- I am loving this information --

Would really like to hear even more -- the more you hear the best decision a person can make.

IMO

please -- keep it going.

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