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NAMASafetyDirector

Best Battery??

20 posts in this topic

What are some of the best deep cycle marine batteries out there on the market today. I am going to add another one for more capacity to the SnoBear and I want this one to be the "last one" for a while. More concerned about the quality than cost at this point. Thanks..NAMA

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If you don't want to spend the big cash on Optima's.

I put in a vote for Interstate Battery's.

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Another vote for Interstate batteries

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This will sound counterintuitive, but the best batteries I have owned are Fleet Farm Dual Purpose Group 31 batteries. I was hesitant to go with the dual purpose, however based upon a recommendation, I gave them a try. (I figured if they didn't work, I'd return them under warranty). I did a few marathons with the trolling motor and they never went below 50%. They have outperformed other big name deep cycles I've had in the past and only cost $75. A few guys I fish with are also believers. I know the argument is that deep cycles will outperform the dual purposes, but just giving my two cents based upon my experience.

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Have been real happy with the interstate mega-tron. Have two of them in the wheelhouse

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ditto on the interstates(mega tron) group 27 in the lund

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I've ran Napa Orbital deep cycle batteries for a number of years. The reason I like them is they are lighter, smaller in size with great performance.

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Optima's are great if you like to replace batteries often due to failure. If you want a great battery buy an Odyssey. A PC1500 would be a the group34 option (same size as Optima's). The PC1750, PC2150, and PC2250 are larger and would work great for trolling motors depending on how much room you have.

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I run 4 Interstae batteries on my boat and I have had very good luck with them.

Biggest thing to me is customer service and the dealer here in Superior has always been very good about backing the products they sell.

I was in a tourney and had a battery run down. Thought it was the battery. Turned out to be the on board charger I had. Anyways they checked the battery and said it just needed charging. They gave me a new battery and sold the other as a used reconditioned. I was in and out in 15 minutes. No charge!

Back in the boat and fishing in 1/2 hour.

My stator went on my engine last opener. They had 2 new batteries to me at the landing in 45 minutes.

My problems have never been the battery always other factors but they made sure I could stay on the water. Now thats service!

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Trojan batteries are my choice. Have used them for many years and never let me down. They are cheaper than Optimas and last alot longer. Got 8 years on my current battery and still going strong.

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I started using Trojans 4 yrs. ago, and that is all I will use now. Still using the same starting and deep cycle's that I bought then. Hold a charge great, and last all day w/the trolling motor running most of the day.

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Did some checking on the battery that I have and it is a 24 series instead of a 27 series so I'm guessing this is why the longevity on a charge is less than what I expected it to be??

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I had a non deep cycle Optima for 11 years in three different vehicles, I sold it with the last one. This was before they were bought out.They have a high upfront cost, but they seem to be worth it in the long run.

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
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