Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
BigWadeS

Marcum LX-5 transducer cable ?

12 posts in this topic

I bought a used LX-5 this off season and got to use it and try to figure it out finally yesterday. When I was adjusting the cable stop/gimble (sp?) it wouldn't slide very easy and it would keep bunching up the rubber coating around the cable. Is there a trick to these things that I am just not aware of?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They can be a bit sticky, just get ahold of the split in the grommet and spread it out a little bit. My New LX-5 was this way and now it is fine once I gave it a little tweek.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ah, grommet, that's what the right term is, thanks, I was just afraid of doing that didn't want it to break on me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just use my fingernail to split it apart a bit so it will slide.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've noticed that if I try to slide the cable through dry, it's very difficult, and I worry about messing up the cable. If I wet the cable and rubber, it slides like butter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just an idea...

I took the arm thingy off of my marcum and just put a replacement vex styrofoam float and stopper back on. Works great and you dont need to have the unit right next to the hole. Just a thought

Cliffy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also just split the rubber just a bit and it slides very easy. Only takes a second and your ready to go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just an idea...

I took the arm thingy off of my marcum and just put a replacement vex styrofoam float and stopper back on. Works great and you dont need to have the unit right next to the hole. Just a thought

Cliffy

You really don't need the unit next to the hole while using the arm. You feed more cable out and it'll lay across the ice and hang the transducer face just below the ice. The ducer will still be "level", the cord will be alongside the ice hole and your Marcum will be further away from the hole.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is one thing I love about the Marcum support arm, no more floaty in the hole. Those things are treble hook magnets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Originally Posted By: cliffy
Just an idea...

I took the arm thingy off of my marcum and just put a replacement vex styrofoam float and stopper back on. Works great and you dont need to have the unit right next to the hole. Just a thought

Cliffy

You really don't need the unit next to the hole while using the arm. You feed more cable out and it'll lay across the ice and hang the transducer face just below the ice. The ducer will still be "level", the cord will be alongside the ice hole and your Marcum will be further away from the hole.

Yeah, I understand that but the Marcum I bought about 4 years ago came with a much shorter cable than the new ones...maybe three feet shorter...and it was a pain in the back side to have the unit right by the hole, on the ice. I like to flip a 5 gallon bucket upside down and put the unit on top....and if the ice was really thick, sometimes the ducer wouldn't get down far enough and I would have problems.

I recently had to replace my ducer and noticed the new cable is MUCH longer...so I see your point....but habits are hard to break and I went back to my old ways.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just get the cord wet and if that dont work I open the split on the grommet a bit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • I'm getting pretty far ahead of myself, but I'm beginning to wonder if another trailer ramp spring would be the way to go for raising the back bunk.  I've never used one before, but I'm sure you can set the tension so it's well below the maximum and it wouldn't take so much effort to pull it down.  Just put up some guide rails and spring latches to latch it in the down position.  Any thoughts?
    • -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------             And.....you pay for it all.    
    • Well that sure "Trumps" anything else going around and around on in this site today!
    • Yeah you're right, my bad. Yes, the line is awful. 
    • It was a false start on the OL and another one could have been called on the 2nd attempt.  The OL is just BAD, probably the worst I've ever seen for a vikings team.  It seems like few teams put a high priority on the OL.  A good OL can make an average qb, wr, and rb look awfully good when it gives them time and opens holes.  A bad OL can also make a great qb, wr, rb look awfully bad.
    • OLE77, They did replace the valve cover when they did the STP treatment at 92,000 miles; it made no lasting difference.    delcecchi, I have the 5.3 engine.  I'm guessing I need new rings, that seems to be what everyone tells me.   Down2Earth, When I initially brought it in, Village told me they had never heard of the problem.  When I returned (I had then googled it and heard about the AFM and many, many people who have gone through this), they changed their tune and pointed the finger at GM as not letting them properly fix it.  What a joke.   I've attached a photo of the plugs I changed out last week.  This is now a monthly ritual for me.  Great, really looking forward to changing these out in my driveway this Jan.  Grrrrrr.
    • I bought 2 fans off Amazon for $18 each and there 110v. There 5"x 5" and about 4" deep. I was thinking about mounting them under the heater. Or would it be better to but them in a woodbox and mount on to?. They say there good for 69,000 hr of run time.
    • To bad we had an holding penalty that made us attempt it from the 7.
  • Our Sponsors