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aquafang

Target separation on flashers

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Can someone set the record straight on flashers please? Who has the best target separation. and whats the deal with power? Vexilar claims that power is just a gimmick. I'm mainly talking Vex, marcum, and hummingbird.

thanks.

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Basically the Vex/ Hummungbirds come in a shade over two inches while the Marcum LX-5 when zoomed in will hit the ¾” mark…now that is precision. When researching flashers make sure to note the distinction between target separation and “Target ID” (spacing on screen) two very different features, you want the target separation.

Hi everyone, I'm Eddie, a technical specialist with the Marketing department from Humminbird... We advertise a target seperation of 2 1/2".

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"When you bounce a ball off the old garage door if you throw it soft or lob it in what happens? It bounces back at all sorts of trajectories and angles. Basically the lack of power can cause an inconsistency or cause the ball to behave erratically, sonar in sense works off of the same principle. Now throw that ball full power at the wall. It is going to came back at you straight and quick, hence more accurately and consistently."

Sound waves in water behave nothing like a ball in air. Gravity doesn't affect sound waves and the sound waves always travel at the same speed. You need enough power to get a usable echo return from whatever you want to see, like a jig or a fish, in the depth of water you are fishing in.

The quality of the transducer and the receiving circuits makes a difference as well.

There really isn't a downside to having more power except possibly cost. But other things might be more important.

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You need enough power to get a usable echo return from whatever you want to see, like a jig or a fish, in the depth of water you are fishing in.

Basically the same principle I tried to explain in layman’s terms, more power makes for better signal.

But thank you for your input and keeping me in check. wink

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That I would have to see. I thing that really gets me is when claims are made. "you can a walleye laying on the bottom". give me a break. Take a 6" minnow put it on a jig, now drop it down in 15ft or more. That puppy will not be seen.

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That I would have to see. I thing that really gets me is when claims are made. "you can a walleye laying on the bottom". give me a break. Take a 6" minnow put it on a jig, now drop it down in 15ft or more. That puppy will not be seen.

Huh? So a 6 inch or smaller fish cant be detected in water deeper than 15 ft.?

Umm ok.

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I can see my minnow on my spoon on the LX 5 and have seen that second band disappear when a fish stole it -_-. My rod was laying down. This was in about 20ft of water.

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What you have to ask yourself will it make a difference if the fish is .5'', 1'' or even 3'' away from your presentation. If you are able to get the fish to strike it will not matter; it will also not matter if you don't get the fish to strike. Either why you have learned what you needed to know, and that is if the presentation you are using is working. If you are looking from the smallest separation distance get a underwater camera and the issue is over you will know exactly how far something is away from you presentation.

For those that will say the camera will not work in the dark or in murky water, all i have to say is I am sorry there is no hope for you. If you still need something better then electronics or a camera I suggest you change you fishing location, try the grocery store, you will be able to tell the exact how far the fish is from you lure since you will be hold both. The later would be only logical next step for ice fishing.

The new and improved tech that they are coming out with each year is just a way for individuals to see who's is longer.

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Can someone explain target separation and target ID. I'm pretty sure I know what they are, but would like a definition. Now, who is better here? both in zoom and no zoom

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with all this being said, since Im in the market for my first flasher....

I had my eye on a XV-1 which has 600 watts peak power but for a few dollars more I can get the VX-1P which has 1000 watts peak power.

should I be spending a few extra dollars to get a more powerful unit? My O.L. already told me to buy one, buy good and not to waste my money on something I wont be happy with.

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HEADS UP Shizzy...Cabela's has the new VX-1P on sale now for $279 (was $349) to beat Ganders $199 deal. That is stupid cheap...like below cost...seen it on there web site last night...it is crazy...go nuts bud? wink

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What you have to ask yourself will it make a difference if the fish is .5'', 1'' or even 3'' away from your presentation. If you are able to get the fish to strike it will not matter; it will also not matter if you don't get the fish to strike. Either why you have learned what you needed to know, and that is if the presentation you are using is working. If you are looking from the smallest separation distance get a underwater camera and the issue is over you will know exactly how far something is away from you presentation.

For those that will say the camera will not work in the dark or in murky water, all i have to say is I am sorry there is no hope for you. If you still need something better then electronics or a camera I suggest you change you fishing location, try the grocery store, you will be able to tell the exact how far the fish is from you lure since you will be hold both. The later would be only logical next step for ice fishing.

The new and improved tech that they are coming out with each year is just a way for individuals to see who's is longer.

I agree for the most part, but there is one scenario where target separation is all about. That's a school of fish and being able to distinguish one that's larger from one that's smaller. Now you have to get your lure to the correct fish and when your flasher is registering a false bottom with soooooo many fish, it gets a lot harder to separate what is what. It's really easy to lose your lure in a solid band of three/four feet column of fish.

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I ran into a scenario this weekend where target seperation helped a lot.

Right at sundown the water column filled with plankton. As the plankton got thicker it became more difficult to find your bait and the fish amongst the plankton.

So basically the LX-5 was showing all the plankton as single individual yellow blips (nearly the entire screen was full). I would identify my bait by jigging it. Then lower it through the plankton until a red mark appeared and then work that fish. It was pretty cool being able to do that.

I can't say for certain because I didn't have anything to test, but I think anything else with lower power might have just picked up the plankton as one big blob.

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i have a fl 18 fishing in 15 feet of water when i have it in zoom it will seperate the 2 parts of a ice number 10 ant this is when I have my gain set on 1. i have used markums but sorry but I was not any more impressed

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HEADS UP Shizzy...Cabela's has the new VX-1P on sale now for $279 (was $349) to beat Ganders $199 deal. That is stupid cheap...like below cost...seen it on there web site last night...it is crazy...go nuts bud? wink

For an extra $80, I'd go with the Marcum VX-1P. You get not only the extra 400 watts but, six more IR settings and the soft case.

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I also use a fl-18 and never ran into a seperation problem. when there is lots of floaty stuff in the water I just use the low power setting and it works better than ever. sometimes less is MORE. and in this instance its very true. I dont need to see the plankton just the fish so I just " delete it" with the LP mode.

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I too have had to experience the millions, well maybe hundreds of yellow blips that showed up. Happened to be either a passing school of minnow or water bugs, then followed by feeding predators. Very rare opportunity that one can figure out a fish from among a 10 feet column of blips.

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