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311Hemi

Snow blower dies under load?

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I have an old heavy duty 2-stage snow blower that dies under load. A couple times I got about 10 ft before it quite and it was blowing snow but then slowly just died. It has a 6hp B&S engine. I just cleaned the carbs this fall and changed the oil. I tried running it with the gas cap lose and that did not help. It idles fine and when I put it to full throttle the engine RPM's surge if not under load. I also noticed flames coming out of the exaust pipe (at the same rate as it surges) last night when I tried using it for the first time. It's starts the first pull after it dies.

I did remove the fuel mixture screw when cleaning the carbs and I am not sure I put it back in correctly as far as the same position.

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It sounds like its starving for gas,(the surging and flames). If it is the type of carb that is mounted on the gas tank, there should be a diaphram on the side of the carb that should be replaced. I have a tiller that pretty much did the same thing. I thought the surging was the gov spring but it turned out to be a dirty carb. I used a $14 kit that came with the diaphram I mentioned, runs great. Don't know for sure but give it a try.

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Carb is mounted on the opposite side of the gas tank, and I rebuild it with a carb kit. The glass sediment bowl is right under the tank and I replaced teh screen/filter on that. The sediment bowl is staying full. I may need to try adjusting the fuel needle to allow more fuel if these are symptoms of it starving for gas.

BTW...it's an Power Kraft Brigg and Straton engine on an old Garden Mark snowblower.....it's a tank.

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Check under the fuel bowl for an adjustment screw. Newer EPA carbs had these removed but a lot of older at least Tecumseh carbs have these. If you have one try adjusting it without a load and at high rpm adjust clockwise and counterclockwise and find a center point where it don't race and it does not bog down. Then engage the auger and make fine adjustments. This is the best way to adjust the mixture as well.

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If you have a Garden Mark snowblower, it is old. You are on the correct track about the carb being the problem. You have a lean running condition. The flames coming out of the exhaust is the clue.

The adjustment on the bottom of the carb is the high speed or power agjustment. Turn that in until it stops, then back it out 2 1/2 turns. There is an idle mixture screw on the throat of the carb. Turn this one in until it stops, and then back it out 1 1/2 turns. This will get you running. You may have to do some fine tuning from that point, but it will be a minor adjustment.

If you have the sediment bowl under the fuel tank, make sure the shut off valve is open all the way.

Harry

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Thanks for the info guys! I will be working on it some more this week. I tried adjusting the high speed adjustment some and it would still die after 1-2 minutes, but it was running smoother. I am going to try putting new gas in it as the current gas is from this summer/fall. I also see some sediment in the sediment bowl and I think there was some rust in the tank from previous owner letting it sit. The sediment bowl has always stayed full.

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Well....I adjusted the carb, cleaned the sediment bowl out and drained all the gas that was in there, and filled with new gas. I also opened up the fuel shut off screw more...not sure if that was open enough or not since I never touched it since I got the blower. Started it up and after a minute of adjusting the carb a little more I was snow blowing the driveway. Man.....that's so much easier than shoveling! Thanks! grin

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I had many of the same problems last year you described. I have an old Sears. Now this year I have a bigger problem. Orange gas, I cleaned the tank, the carbs, the line the best I could. I have a primer bulb, but I try it and it stays in, and it does not appear to be getting gas. I put a shot in the carbs and it would fire but kill after a couple seconds.

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Sounds like rust in the line,Is it a metal tank? Needs a total take down carb cleaning,while doing it get a rebuild kit there cheap.Flush the lines good,the primer bulb is probably worn out cracked rubber.

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If your planning to rebuild the carb you should also plan to either replace the diaphragm or if its a float style replace the float. I have my rebuild kit coming today and the float was not part of the kit. A diaphragm style carb may include the diaphragm. The float was an extra $6.00 and easy to replace when your rebuilding anyway. Better to replace it then to get the carb apart and discover all the sloshing gas inside your old float from a pinhole leak. oh, the gasket between the carb and the engine was not in my rebuild kit either. I had to buy that separate.

If your sears is like mine then it also doesn't have a fuel filter. You might consider adding that; i am going too.

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I put a carb kit in mine and it seemed to work for a while but then acted up again. I hate these carbs that don't have any adjustments on them. Mine actually ended up being a problem with the governor. I wiggled the governor arm back and forth a few times and it has been working fine ever since. Sounds like more snow today so I'll give it another whirl.

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Something I just learned the other day,The fuel line should have a good paper fuel filter,Seems the ethanol fuel clogs carbs fairly quick! The paper filter helps greatly!

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