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snowfighter

IceCastle Fish House

33 posts in this topic

Bought a IceCastle fish house and noticed after I got home from the dealer there was still tension on the cables of the winchs for the wheels and the pins had now weight on them, shouldn't the cables be loose and the pins be caring the weight of the spring?

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Cables are tight until lowered on most units I believe.

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Turn the winch backwards to take the weight off the cable this will transfer the weight to the pins...Atleast thats how I do mine

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Smellson that makes sence to me there should be weight on the pins so the springs are doing the work instead of the cable working the springs.

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Thats the way it was explained to me when i bought my house. the pins should have all the weight and the cables slack.

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Yup! Don't drive anywhere with the weight on the springs. I have an ice castle. After you get the pins in, just back it off so the cable is slack and you will be fine. Just remember that in order to let the house down you have to pull the pins, lol, so just tighten it up enough to get the pins out.

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Yup! Don't drive anywhere with the weight on the springs. I have an ice castle. After you get the pins in, just back it off so the cable is slack and you will be fine. Just remember that in order to let the house down you have to pull the pins, lol, so just tighten it up enough to get the pins out.

I hope you meant to say only drive when the weight are on the springs. If you have all the weight on the cables it defeats the purpose of the springs and sooner or later your cable will snap...

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How often do you guys grease your ice castle? (Where the wheels come up) They say after every use but that cant be right. And have you ever had any trouble with your house dropping down all the way?

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I had a problem with mine last year, the arms froze-rusted and would not let the house drop down. I drilled and tapped the outer tube and screwed in grease fittings. It put a small divit into the inner shaft but no big deal. I pumped a BUNCH of grease in and worked the arms back and forth till they were free. No more problems, They should come with grease zerks but it is an easy fix.

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How often do you guys grease your ice castle? (Where the wheels come up) They say after every use but that cant be right. And have you ever had any trouble with your house dropping down all the way?

I am getting new axels put on mine right now due to needing brakes and wanted the new style crank system. The mfg told me that you are supposed to grease the pivot point after each trip. You may exercise that joint a dozen times on the trip, but when you get home give it a squirt.

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Hey Bucksnort (great name by the way!)

We don't need your phone number and I would love to read some of your tips! I purchased mine used this year and am still trying to work out the bugs before the ice. I think there may be some others that could use some of your wisdom gained by your experience.

[Note from admin: Bucksnort it's ok to put in how to info]

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I bought my ice castle in 06. It actually has those zerk screws. However when i put the grease gun on and attempted to grease it the zerk screw came out. Is there any way to grease it without the screw in there. Or do they sell those?

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I had the same question about the Ice Castle I recently purchased. I actually called to where they are manufactured and they told me the weight should be on the pins. If you leave the weight on the cables, eventually they will snap.

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I bought my ice castle in 06. It actually has those zerk screws. However when i put the grease gun on and attempted to grease it the zerk screw came out. Is there any way to grease it without the screw in there. Or do they sell those?

I guess you could spray in some wd-40 with the little plastic straw thingy, but any decent automotive store should sell Zerk fittings.

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I bought my ice castle in 06. It actually has those zerk screws. However when i put the grease gun on and attempted to grease it the zerk screw came out. Is there any way to grease it without the screw in there. Or do they sell those?

what I would do is weld a nut over the hole where the old grease zerk was and then screw a new gease zerk in to the nut.

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Hey guys ,

the other thing that is real important.

is the pulleys for the front and sides it will lock up after very short time if not when you first pick it up.

The problem is the bolt they use 1/2 inch is threaded and it rides on the in side of the brass bushing and grinds it out and locks up to one side or the other then the cable rubes and brakes

not good at LOL on new years eve!!!!! found that out last year.

Fastenal has the pulleys and then the hardware store has a bolt that is 1/2 inch and all solid except for the last 1/4 inch so the pulleys ride on all solid shaft.

I don't know what they are called but you will find in the specialty drawers above the normal bolts .

I also made a kit to have in house 10 feet for the front

7 feet for the sides .

also on the front drill out the hole side in the bottom All I have seen are cut out with cutting tourch very sharp snap cable

good luck stay safe .

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When I grease mine I block up the house to take the weight off and then pivot the wheel assembly when greasing. It takes the grease better and works it in. I believe the zerks they use are the ones that just pound in. One of mine fell out and I had to replace it. And yes make sure that your cables have plenty of slack.

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Hey guys ,

the other thing that is real important.

is the pulleys for the front and sides it will lock up after very short time if not when you first pick it up.

The problem is the bolt they use 1/2 inch is threaded and it rides on the in side of the brass bushing and grinds it out and locks up to one side or the other then the cable rubes and brakes

not good at LOL on new years eve!!!!! found that out last year.

Fastenal has the pulleys and then the hardware store has a bolt that is 1/2 inch and all solid except for the last 1/4 inch so the pulleys ride on all solid shaft.

I don't know what they are called but you will find in the specialty drawers above the normal bolts .

I also made a kit to have in house 10 feet for the front

7 feet for the sides .

also on the front drill out the hole side in the bottom All I have seen are cut out with cutting tourch very sharp snap cable

good luck stay safe .

That's good info, thanks. My mother in law has an ice castle and she's had issues with the drop down assembly siezing. I'll have to check out all the tips you guys gave here.

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Also take wheel assembly off once a year clean and apply grease right to axle very smooth up and down. Purchased new one in 07 a 16 footer with v front changed winches on the sides the ones they put on are cheap and too small.Changed to a 2000 pound 2 speed winch less work and and faster setting down. My 9 year old can crank it up.

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Bucksnort64- I think the bolts you are referring to are bolts that have "shoulders" om them. The ones that have a mushroom head with a square area behind the head are called "carriage bolts", however they do not hace a hex head on for "holdbacks" for tightening.

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Buksnort64 what is the kit 10ft for the front and and 7ft for the sides? are you taking about extra cable lenghts?

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I think he means he carries extra cables made up in case 1 snaps at a bad time(like there would be a good time)First aid kit of sorts. I carry an extra 7/8 wrench in my truck at all times for prpoane tank fittings after learning my lesson.

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I thought he was referring to cable. They must of changed the bolt/pulley set up, mine I bought new a week ago and when I looked at the pulleys there is no bolt for a shaft it seems to be a shaft and welded at both ends I would asume its a coldrolled steel shaft.

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Bucksnort64, The bolts that you're referring to are called "step" or "shoulder" bolts. They're also available at Menards in the garage door hardware section. Zerks are available at nearly any auto parts or farm and home store. For replacing screw in zerks though, you'll need to know the diameter 1/4", 3/8" etc and most often they are fine thread. A box of 10 costs ~$3.50. Plenty cheap protection. Phred52

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