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steel studs for a perminant fish house?

22 posts in this topic

Would steel frameing work for walls on a perminant fish shack? It is going to be a 10x20 for mille lacs. I want to keep the weight down as much as possible. I have'nt ever worked with it and dont know its limitations. Could a guy use them floor joists inside a wood frame also?

Thanks.

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If you are trying to save wieght i am not sure steel would be the way to go. Maybe aluminum would work.

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steel framing will transfer frost and moisture to the inside walls.I like to use cedar but it gets kinda costly.

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I would think skinning wood runners with aluminum, or using 4x6 aluminum tubing would work great, but I think it would be expensive

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What meatfish said. The only way to prevent it from happening would be to add some type of insulating barrier between the edge of the steel stud and the inside wall. This would make your walls thicker and also add more weight.

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Added weight and moisture control is prolly going to be the biggest concerns. Highly agree with above posts. I once asked myself the same questions, and got pretty much the same reply. Makes sense though.

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Im building a 8x16 fish house and im using steel studs to reduce on the weight because I have a beefy frame. Also had the studs in storage from old commercial jobs so I figured I would use them up.

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Here's the deal.... My father and I were both commercial carpenters. I have framed steel studs for 20+ years.

I am also in the middle of a wheelhouse project. Here are a few reasons we came up with that steel studs are not the way to go:

1. Yes, steel studs are light and cheap. However; you have to use backing to attach anything to them.

2. Backing (plywood) costs more money and weighs more than the wood studs you would have put in.

3. I am not sure the frost coming through the walls argument holds any water.

Steel studs are used all over the country in all kinds of climates and if they did have those kinds of problems they would not be used.

I will get you guys a weight on my wheel house that we framed out of wood but my father and I could not come up with one reason we would frame our house out of steel. Backing is a huge deal, you have to have it or nothing you want on the walls is going to stick to it.

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I am also in the commercial construction industry. Most commercial buildings are built with steel studs. I have never come across aluminum studs. Attaching anything to them is not a problem. You just need screws instead of nails. If you're hanging a bunk, you might want to back the bearing steel studs with plywood or 2x4's.

Moisture will not be a problem. Think about: you have holes in the floor!

If you plan on using them for the floor, 'nest' 2 studs together, open sides facing each other to creat a 'box beam'. You can also slip a piece of track over the stud.

For steel stud framing, the strength comes in the system. Wood framing will hold it self up but with steel, you should screw plywood to both the inside and outside. Exterior gyp sheathing could work. Stay away from bilt-rite. Steel framed walls will flex some. They tend to squeak and make noise when the wind blows.

If you do go with steel, make sure you don't strip the screws out. Use them if you have them.

My 2 cents!

TC

Walk in coolers work great if you can find one. Insulated garage doors will work too with a little creativity.

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Chickey,

In your opinion do you think it would be any cheaper, lighter or faster to build out of steel? Would you build your house out of steel?

Just curious we debated it for quite a bit before we went with wood but if there is a better way....

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Weight should not be the issue here.... Steel backing sucks. Plywood backing will add weight, and will more than likely negate the original weight you saved going to metal studs to begin with.

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I got to thinking after my post....

Not only is steel backing a poor choice; even if you find the right screw it is still going to cost you more.

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If you would use steel studs and plywood on the inside. then spray foamed from the outside. Would the spray foam add the strength that you need?? could the aluminum siding be screwed to the outside??

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I have worked with both steel and wood. If I didn't have an XLT, I would definately go with steel. For me, it would be lighter, cheaper, and faster. It's also easier to get a straight/square product. It's tough to find straight studs. The debate on screws is not as important as using them right. If you strip them, no screw will hold. You don't need self drilling. Regular sheetrock screws work fine. I can't think of anything in a fish house being too heavy for the steel studs to hold. What are you guys thinking of hanging? Tables or bunks should have legs anyways. In most office buildings, the upper cabinets are screwed directly to the studs (25 gauge). If backing is put in, it is usually missed. For a fish house, all you really need is a 1" wide rip of plywood inside the lip of the stud. Shift to 20 gauge if you're worried.

BTW, I did frame parts of my home with steel. No problems in 10 years.

No, aluminum siding shouldn't be attached directly to the studs. Some kind of shathing is needed. Maybe pole barn siding.

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No, aluminum siding shouldn't be attached directly to the studs. Some kind of shathing is needed. Maybe pole barn siding.

1/4" fanfold foam would work great for this. Plus, it would add a little more insulation. Use it between the stud and the alum. siding.

For those that worry about frost lines, fanfold would work there, too. All together, you're adding an honest 5/8" to the thickness of the wall if used on both sides, 3/8" if only used on the inside.

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I guess the important question is what are you finishing the inside of you fishhouse with and how fancy are you getting?

If you want a cheap, quick foam box with plain plywood on the inside and you aren't concerned with screws showing by all means steel is fine.

I went an entirely different route with my mine, I did not have to use any plywood on the interior or exterior, although I did sheet the roof.

I have framed steel studs for over 20 years there is no way I would ever install cabinets into a 25 guage stud with no backing. If you chose to use 20 guage once again you are increasing cost and weight. What is the advantage of that?

I finished the inside of mine with knotty pine and I am happy with the choice.

I also can't see spending time furring out all those studs but to each his own.

I have a post of my wheel house project on here somewhere you can see how I framed it there.

Good luck with your project.

Edit:

One more thing to consider is that steel will rust. I am in the middle of tearing moldy sheetrock off walls from a building that sat empty for 6 years. There was no water damage to the building just the humidity. All of the bottom track and steel studs are very, very rusted at least two feet up. You won't have that problem in a climate controlled house or commercial building however; you will certainly have that problem with the soaking wet floor of a fish house.

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with steel studs how could you fasten knotty pine to the walls without a wood backing. I also debated a long time too but am very glad I went with wood when it was all framed up 7 x 16 It was surprisingly very light.

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Seems like the right screw always costs more.

I agree, but screwing is certainly preferable to getting nailed.

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