Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
Eye Slayer

Cold Garage Door Won't Close

Question

So my garage door doesn't want to close on its own when the temps drop. It opens and closes fine when it's warm out, but if the temps drop around 30 and below, it locks up. I can hold the button down inside the garage and that will 'force' the garage door down, but if I just push the remote button, the opener tries to push but immediately starts blinking its light.

FYI, the house was built in 1989 so the door/etc should only be about 20 years old. Not ancient but not new either...

I tried adjusting the strength of the opener's push on the back of the opener unit and that doesn't appear to have helped.

Any ideas?

Do I just need a new opener, new tracks, new door or rollers? Any help/suggestions is definitely appreciated!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

14 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Do you have door sensors at the bottom of the door (lazar beam/sensor type)?

For some reason, when it gets cold out my brackets loosen or flex enough to shake beam while the door is first closing. I figure this is due to temp difference or something.

I readjust them and it is fixed. This is my second year doing this.

If not, adjust the track and lube rollers if you can with some light weight oil or synthetic lube.

Also you can pull the release and see if you have even tension going up as going down. If it is hard to close, you may need to adjust the spring tension.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

We do have the laser beams so I will check those out tonight. I have tried the track 'lube' in the past and that didn't seem to help much. Although some WD40 seemed to help for a bit.

Not sure I know enough about the spring tension, etc to monkey around with that so if the WD40 treatment doesn't work and the lasers are all set, I might have to give somebody smarter than me a call.

Any other ideas? Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Disconnect the trolley from the track and open and close the door manually. Look for binding and rubbing at the door stop as each section as it comes into contact with the door stop. Check for binding against the side of the rails and door. Next would be unequal spring tension. One side pulling harder then the other will make the door rack back and forth. Each time it does that it binds. Too much spring preload could also be the cause.

If you have to pull down hard to close the door and if the door wants to open on its own you have too much spring pre-load.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

On my garage if the door stops or goes back up and the light blinks it means that something tripped the sensors at the edge of the door. That will be the easiest place to start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I have the same problem. My door is coming down crooked so I think you guys are right in saying my sring tensions are uneven.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

On my garage if the door stops or goes back up and the light blinks it means that something tripped the sensors at the edge of the door. That will be the easiest place to start.

Same here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

In my case, I just readjusted the brackets the sensors are on. I think just bending them should help also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I just had the same problem last week. The door would get about 1 foot from the ground then go back up. I knew it wasn't the sensors because the light wasn't flashing. All I had to do was adjust the down pressure a little bit then lube the pulleys that the cable wraps around. I also lubed the chain a little. I used silicone spray and it works perfect now. The manual even says there may be an adjustment needed when the weather gets colder. This is the first year I had to do this. Also I've never had to lube it.

Good luck, Kid

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Well, I took a look at the laser sensors last night and while the little green light was on, it wasn't very bright. I moved the bracket just a little bit and the light became stronger. I tried the door and it worked fine.

Thanks for the input SB! It saved me ~ $100 in service!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Quote:
Well, I took a look at the laser sensors last night and while the little green light was on, it wasn't very bright.

Same with me, but mine are red. They would be on, but just enough so the vibration from the door starting down would vibrate the sensor off the other sensor so slightly and quickly, the naked eye could barley catch it.

2 years in a row now this has happened when it gets cold outside for me. This after I go threw the rollers/idlers and track (adjusting and lubing) and then backing off spring tension and nothing worked. This year right after doing all this, I remembered about last year and sure enough I went down and adjusted one of the sensors and walla! It worked and I had to readjust my spring back crazygrin.

Good to hear it worked out for ya! smile

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I do not oil the tracks; only adjust them if needed so the garage door does not bind while going up or down. I will lube with (synthetic light weight or silicone) the inside of the rollers and hinge points on the door. Makes for a quite moving door wink

Yes, do not put lube on the track them selves, or at least I never do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Where did you get your subfloor? How is it holding up? 
    •     thats what I have heard also..  I have put a tip up out on the lake and stay in my home, less than 200 feet, no issue...  could see it always...
    • The dump and run brings home the HJE trophy for the 60th anniversary of the race and on the 20th anniversary of the #3’s win of the race.   Any thoughts?   I’m only a part time fan these days but it seems like the move is totally acceptable these days.  Or is it just if you’re part of racing royalty?  20 years ago there woulda been a fight.   I will say I enjoyed the race and glad it was good since I’ve had to sit on my butt all day not feeling good.  Oh, and the Monster Energy marketing gals don’t suck. 
    • I would also look into using SIPS panels as an alternative to post framed. I have done a lot of projects using SIPS panels from a company called EPS in Iowa including the new fire station/ city hall in our town.    The cost of the panels is higher than the material cost of post framed but they are super insulated, go up fast and really cut down on outside noise. Our city has saved a significant amount of money in heat savings and you can even put in smaller btu HVAC which saves money. 
    • I always thought it was a visual issue. Not sure of the footage away but going house to house without seeing your lines might be a problem. I've wondered in the summer, casting a sucker off the dock and walking up to the cabin to get something if that was in wrong as well. 
    • I’ve heard people have been getting cited for not bringing up their lines to go their buddies houses less than 200 feet away.    What I haven’t heard is the reason why this legally different than having a tip up outside your house.  I won’t argue that it is different, just haven’t heard why, and what notification systems make it or break it.   Its another situation where the use of technology is moving faster than the laws.  I agree with Pro V: contact the DNR before you have to try to explain it on the ice.  Or maybe you’ve had to do that already.
    • Got another good ride in yesterday ,,, Almost took the same route as the last time I did the Tac but took a wrong turn and put on a few extra miles but still and enjoyable ride ,,, Had lunch at Side Lake and then headed out to the Bearskin trail ,,, Nice trail flat, straight and fast ,, A little too fast for a sled not completely broke in yet any way ,,, I think every one enjoyed the ride and trail conditions ,,, As I type the snow is falling and Im sure trail conditions are improving 
    • Good question to ask the warden.
    • I can't think of one reason to ever have a gas auger again... I get around 20 holes per battery this time of year with a lazer 7 inch
    • WAIT FOR IT Here is James Vladyka's story: This is one of my best friends. We grew up together and have made some crazy memories over the years. He joined the Army shortly after we got out of high school and there was many years where we had to make the best out of a few days of leave that he would get to hunt and fish.   To many years have passed 2 tours Iraq, 3 tours Afghanistan and a few years private contracting he has served our country proudly. Now he's retired and we are making more memories again.   This was another battle to add to his long list.  Brock landed this beautiful Pike through a 6 in kdrill hole on a 20" Jason Mitchell meat stick with a Clam Dropkick tipped with a white Super Jamei on 2 lbs CPT line.   The 14 inch white Crappie in it's mouth was placed there for a size reference. The assist goes to another one of my good friends not pictured Blaine Goad. He reach down the hole and help her come topside
      FishHoundsOutdoors 
      Clam Outdoors  Navionics Vexilar Inc
  • MWO