Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .

Recommended Posts

What are my options for this cal. in a synthetic stock, semi-auto, and MAYBE a stainless steel barrel???? I might also want a recoil reducer something like the BOSS...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you could afford a stainless steel barrel then go for it. They are worth the extra cash. I'd prefer synthectic stock myself, less hassle and worrying about getting them looking nice. From what I hear the Boss's are super loud!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought a Tika T3. Accurate, reliable, affordable, and I love having a clip. I think they are some of the best bolt actions for the money!

Sorry.... thats not a semi-auto! My bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

THe Boss works a advertized. My brother has 3 rifles with them. However do not shoot one without ear protection even while hunting. All muzzle brakes create a louder muzzle blast. It seems to be at least double the volume IMHO.

Mwal

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Loud is an understatement, they are dangerously loud and cannot be shot without hearing protection. One guy I hunt with in Wisc. used to use one and you could be on the other side of a bluff and know when he shot. It was louder than the guy closest to you shooting...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if recoil is an issue when buying a gun, get a .243. i always thought it was kinda silly to throw a muzzle break on the end of a gun barrel. i'll take a black and blue shoulder over my ears ringing any day!

what, did somebody say something?

also, synthetic, stainless, and semi auto come in few models. one i know being a remington 7400. jam-o-matic. been a real problem gun for my fiance' we upgraded her to a sako finnlite 270 shortmag. very light, so it kicks a bit more than my 7mm rem mag. VERY nice gun though!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you would consider a bolt action, there are far more options available to you. Depending on what you are hunting for, my personal opinion is that a bolt action is the only way to go...

Anyway, in a bolt, you could look at a Ruger M77, Remington 700, Tikka T3, and a host of others. You could also consider a laminate stock instead of syntheti...

I would also stay away from a BOSS system. The only people who could reasonably need one of this are safari hunters. Besides, you could always buy reduced recoil ammo, put a BOSS on after purchase if absolutely necessary, or just buy a smaller caliber (.270 would be a great choice, as would 7MM-08, or .243 as suggested).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look at Browning BAR. Not sure about the stainless and synthetic part. Had one of those Rem Jam O Matics. Got rid of it fast.

I had a 7400 but was lucky enough to win a Browning Bar 30.06 at a MDHA banquet.

I sold the 74001 !

The bar for what ever reason has very little kick and is very,very accurate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I had to go back to an auto, I would go Browning BAR and nothing but. It is heavy, but that takes out some of the kick. It as pretty darn accurate too. But I don't have any plans of ditching my bolt action. I love it. Remington model 700 with X-Mark adjustable trigger.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a BAR in 30-06 with the boss and it is loud but shoots like a 243, but hit's like an '06. Hearing protection should be worn whenever shooting rifles whether they have a muzzlebreak or not. I have shot mine without a couple of times but was wearing a stocking cap and didn't notice a big difference than my 270 without a break. I have a 7mm STW with a muzzlebreak also, if you are more comfortable with the recoil it will make you a better shot, with hearing protection on, I see no downside. Also, you cannot use Managed recoil ammo in an auto, they will not consistantly eject.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had my Rem 7400 30-06 for 19 years and had one shell that didn't completely eject. Never another jam ever. Its hunted in three states taken countless deer and a bull elk. I don't know why you guys claim they are so bad...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had my Rem 7400 30-06 for 19 years and had one shell that didn't completely eject. Never another jam ever. Its hunted in three states taken countless deer and a bull elk. I don't know why you guys claim they are so bad...

Our hunting party had 6 7400's. Out of all 6 only mine had problems. And I had problems with it since day 1. I dealt with it for 12 years and it finally cost me a nice deer. I am happy you have a good one. I am happy the other 5 people I know shooting them have no problems, but for me I'll never buy or use one or recommend one again. I did take many deer with it, but it also cost me a nice one. It's one of those guns that some people (like me for example) just have problems with. The gun was well cared for, probably better than at least half the other guns in our party. Just the way the cookie crumbles sometimes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as automatic rifles go their are really only four options.

Remington 750 woodmaster- a new version of the 7400

Browning BAR

Benelli R-1

Winchester- don't remember the name of it.

My dad was in the market for a new rifle after shooting a 7400 for 20 years. He never had problems with it. Niether my dad or me though that the BAR or Winchester fit us well. The R-1 is about twice the price of a 750, but my dad was considering it. We talked with a guy at Reed's and he said every R-1 he has sold has got brought back to him with problems, so my dad went with a 750 woodmaster with a synthetic stock. I don't know if their are any that you can buy with a stainless barrel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK 30-06 shooters. got a question for ya all. i have an 06. i like to shoot the 220 grain because i dont seem to have to trial deer far, and by the way the furthest i tracked a bear is 50 yards. so are they not making them anymore becuase they are hard to find. at least places like fleet farm etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why would you want a auto???

Trust me (as a 7400 owner for 15 yrs.) I would NEVER buy a auto deer rifle again! I see the guys at the range with bolts. They can do <1" groups at 100 yards. I can do a pop can group on my best day. The tightness of the forearm screw matters on my point of impact too!!! That being said It has never failed to kill every deer I shot.

You should be practicing for a 1 shot 1 kill mentality. Not well if I miss I got 4 more to back it up!!! Who wants to be flinging 30-06 rounds all over the place?

I was young and dumb when I bought this and now I don't want to shell out $700+ for a nice bolt and scope. If I ever went out west I would not bring this auto! For MN and <100 yard shots no problem so far.

It just gives you more options for long open field or mountain shots with a bolt. You could still take the shorter deer/bear shots.

FYI deer hunting buddy changed to 7MM Mag and has not had to track anything since! At least on the 3 deer he has shot so far. It makes a pop can entrance and exit wound with Federal Premiums. Quite impressive to say the least.

Ferny.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I owned a Rem Model 742 semi auto in .30-06 for 40 years & shot numerous deer, moose and bear with it. The jamming issues have finally got to me and she killed her last buck for me 2 weeks ago (jammed after 2 shots as usual). I have bought a BAR in 7mm/08 Rem.I have never hunted big game witout my .06 & I love that shell but I couldn't turn down the mint used BAR.I have had it with Remington semi-autos although 4 other guys in camp have not had issues but I think they are ticking bombs. Any thoughts on the 7MM-08 Rem shell ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like several people use this gun here's a good TIP:

Remington 742/7400 jamming issue. Time for a complete tear-down and good cleaning. Remove the forearm stock and scrape all the carbon off of the gas port. I use a bunch of foaming bore cleaner and let it soak. Take a pipe cleaner and ream it out.

Look at the mating surface that pushes the bolt back and scrape off all the carbon. Mine has NEVER jammed on me...yet smile

Sorry this doesn't relate to your question, just trying to help.

Ferny.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK 30-06 shooters. got a question for ya all. i have an 06. i like to shoot the 220 grain because i dont seem to have to trial deer far, and by the way the furthest i tracked a bear is 50 yards. so are they not making them anymore becuase they are hard to find. at least places like fleet farm etc.

180's will still tip them over quite well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I shoot a Weatherby Vanguard 30.06 with 180 grain ammo. I have shot 4 deer with it, 3 dropped in their tracks, one was never found. Even though there was lots of blood, it still made off. If you make a good shot, it shouldn't go far, no matter what the grain ammo. In fact, after seeing the meat destroyed on several of those deer, next year I am considering going to some ammo with a little less power (150-160).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Faster, I'm with ya 100% on goin to a lighter bullet weight with the .06. I shoot handloaded 150 grain Sierra boatails and have taken several deer in the 300+ yard range. I would drop down to a 130 but, I've never been able to get them to MOA. I see what damage those big bullets do to carcasses. But, on the other hand, it's less work for me after I trim away several pounds of hydrostatic shooked meat. Those Vanguards are nice shooting guns. I've got a '83 model Smith & Wesson 1500 which is the same action.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"OK 30-06 shooters. got a question for ya all. i have an 06. i like to shoot the 220 grain because i don't seem to have to trial deer far, and by the way the furthest i tracked a bear is 50 yards. so are they not making them anymore because they are hard to find. at least places like fleet farm etc."

I do now Gander mountain caries the 220 you are looking for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with other posters above - the best way to reduce recoil is change ammuntion, not guns.

If you shoot 220s great, I have in the past, just be ready for a wallop. I noticed a difference when I started 180s and a friend said when you go to a 150 it feels (almost) like a 22.

Just another opinion.

DD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Check striker's page.  They have some of last years stuff onsale.
    • It's been awhile since I've had time to upload pictures. There has been a lot of progress made!  The siding is up and finished! The process was more difficult to manage with the bends and my lack of tape measure skill lol If i were to do the bends again I would make sure to order 2 sheets extra and order them at the length required to wrap the entire house. From the point on the nose all the way back to the middle of the rear wall. There ended up being vertical seams along the sides here, which in hind sight, isn't ideal.  One thing that i'm not sure I've noted is the bottom white trim. A lot of people use J- Channel on the bottom but you can order a trim called a step down. Which works awesome around the lower edges and doesn't fill up with ice and snow.  The trailer lights are all wired up and working. Seeing whats back behind these big trailers always drives me crazy so i bought the ones with reverse lights built in.  The maiden voyage was out into the parking lot and then back into the shop. It didn't fall apart so it was a success.  I took a few pictures of the bending process. It was a pretty simple setup. A big piece of angle aluminum secured between 2 - 2x4's with 2 clamps a bar and a big hammer worked really well. If you're going to do this make sure to add half of the rib height to whatever the measurement you're trying to hit is. And as i mentioned before, buy the length to wrap the house from the front point all the way to the middle of the rear wall.  We would clamp the bar down then hit it with the hammer to "break" the corrugations. Once they were broken it bent extremely easy.  We also got most of the lighting on the inside roughed in. I have 4 110 outlets and 2 USB plug ins for cell phone/misc charging. All of the lighting will run on 12V. I'm no engineer but, each of the lights in the picture draw 240mA so with them all on I'm thinking i'll get about 30 hours of run time on one battery. There will be 2 batteries for lighting and USB and a separate one for the heater so I should be ok for a weekend "off the grid". I'll have a generator as well to run the TV and other goodies which can charge the batteries as well.  I also picked up the material for the interior. Menard's is having their 11% sale until 10/21/17 and also a sale on their 5/16" Cedar tongue and groove. Between the two sales I got the price down to just under $1 per square foot. Apparently, they aren't stocking this specific Cedar anymore so I had to buy 3 different stores out of stock to get all that I needed. In the end I still didn't have enough to do the roof so i bought some Birch plywood to finish that part. I think a lighter ceiling will help the place feel a little bigger anyways. I got antsy last night and finished some of the cedar boards with Natural Finish Watco Danish Oil. It turned out to be the exact look I was going for. From what I've read i think finishing them all before installation is the way to go. Then once everything is up doing a quick coat of Danish to even everything out.  At this point i'm counting the Steps left to go instead of how many I have done! It's getting close to starting the fun part ( the interior). I'll keep everyone posted on the progress! 
    • My bad... How about this?   https://icefishingdeals.com/
    • Yea, I'm not sure when this project is gonna get evicted from the shop area that i'm using so we had to get it weather proof first. Ideally i think the interior first is a better approach. We ran into some issues wiring that would've been easier handling from the outside. 
    • They don't save cap space that is the whole point. The money is still spent. What it allows them to do is go OVER the cap during such time a player is on LTIR. It doesn't give them relief at all, it just allows them to go over the cap. We already have Coyle on LTIR so it wouldn't do any good to add Parise to that. That would mean two moves would have to happen when they are both healthy. The Wild could do that too, but what sense would that make because they would be forced to be compliant once Parise is healthy. Hossa is likely going to be LTIR all year. At this point I doubt Parise will be out that long. Russo did a very good writeup on it last night for TheAthletic. You can also read up on it on CapFriendly.
    • I'm on board with the others, sounds legal to me!  Best of luck hunting! Kettle
    • Was in Joes sporting goods last night and they had the 8" K drill for $219
    • Sounds good to me.
    • It should be as long as the wma butts up to the lake,
    • Great catch for that spot!  
  • Our Sponsors