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upnorth

Door adjustment 2000 silverado

29 posts in this topic

I get some whistling in the truck and checked the gap around the drivers door and there is a bout 1/4" gap at the top and that is where the whistling is coming from. I can push on the door seal and it will stop somewhat. I was going to try to adjust the door and lo and behold the hinges are welded in place on these trucks crazy How are you supposed to adjust the door placement. Is my only hope to replace the hinge bushings and pins and pray that does the trick or are the bushings cammed for to allow for adjustment?

I can't believe they wouldn't leave some way to adjust the door.

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Is the door sloppy in the hinges. If you grab the bottom of the door as far away from the hinges and lift up does the door move.

When the door is fully closed is the rear door gap even with the rest of the truck.

When you close the door does it feel like the door lifts up as soon as it hits the striker.

We have some resident body guys, I'll see if I can get them to chime in as well.

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Quote:
Is my only hope to replace the hinge bushings and pins

That would be killer grin

Quote:
Is the door sloppy in the hinges. If you grab the bottom of the door as far away from the hinges and lift up does the door move.

Best way to check for work hinges grin

You would be amazed?

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I had the same problem with a 99 Suburban. Body shop time, they'll bend it back in shape for fairly cheap. You could always use a 6x6 and tweek it yourself.

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The rear part of the door fits pretty good, could use to go in a slight amount. The door does seem to be a little out of whack, the lower part of the door is in a little too far and the top is out a bit comparing it to the fender. Makes me suspicious about the hinges. The hinges didn't seem sloppy like the door dropping, but I didn't do a real thorough check. I will take a closer look tonight.

I think I will leave the 6x6 and tweaking to someone who knows what they are doing shocked

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What jer described is a very good way to tell if your hinges are worn. Next look to see how the door sits in its opening. Flush all the way around with a consistent gap.

If need be you can move the striker.

Your weather strip can have a memory to it or worn just out and can be replaced. Wash it off and dry then wet it down with silicon or armor-all and see how that goes.

After checking all that your next move is to spring the door.

By your description air gap on top you move that in.

There isn't any special tools but there is some skill involved. A block of wood and a rag to protect the paint or small bags with sand that'll spread the pressure out placed between the door and body. That placement would be specific to what part of the door your going to spring. In your case block just below the bottom of the window, you should roll the down too.

I'd brace the bottom of the door and at the same time putting inward pressure at the top back corner of the door. Go a little at a time and keep checking your results.

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I took a look last night at the door and it definitely is not sitting in there right. Top of the door has about 1/4" inch more gap than the passenger side. The area by the upper hinge is not totally flush, it sticks out a little from the fender. The seal looks OK, that is what I looked at 1st figuring it was shot.

Are you suggesting I try to bend the door.

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What I'm saying is after my above suggestions have been exhausted, yes you bend the door.

"The area by the upper hinge is not totally flush, it sticks out a little from the fender"

That is where you'll start. You'll need to figure out why its sticking out. Worn bushing, bent hinge, hinge adjustment. After that is addressed you may or may not still have the air leak. Springing door is the next step.

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OK fess up, you were backing up while a passenger had the door open, giving you directions and the door hit a tree or snowbank. grin

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Or the dock! I could tell you how many times I've done that!!!!!!!!

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I did it once many years ago trying to back down a trail in deep snow with my Dodge Dart Sport. Bent the hinges pretty bad. By the time it was straightened back out there was a big pile of rust and dirt all around the car from all the banging.

Edited to add: Topper doors are expensive, ask me how I know.

sorry to hi-jack your thread upnorth

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No worries, I do have a sense of humor cool I do have a nice dent in the tailgate of my other truck from backing a trailer into a campsite with the tailgate down. The truck was new at that time too, I was so sick to my stomach I almost puked!

I did go out this am a gave the door a pull on the bottom and way more movement than I would like. Time to see what I need to do to change the bushings and or pins.

Anyone know what I am getting myself into?

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Most body shops if they arent busy will adjust the door for you for free, or cheap. They are also really good at replacing bushings, and can do it quicker, better, and cheaper usually then a shop.

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I wouldnt go bending any doors or using 2 by 4's either. Take it to a shop and have them check it out and get it done correctly. Plus then you will always have someone to go back to if you have any future issues with it.

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Northlander, in the time it took me to type out how to go about fixing the door I could have completed the job "correctly".

Don't assume we all run to the service center to have our wiper fluid filled. grin

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If the bushings are good, "bending" the door is exactly what a body shop will do. Thats what they are in business to do..... bend metal back to where it is supposed to be! You'd be surprized what methods are used in a body shop to make a car look and work "like new" again. The main thing to remember if you do this is to be careful to not go too far. Using blocks under the door and a hydraulic jack will give you good control of the pressure needed to move it. Patience is the key..... smile

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Northlander, in the time it took me to type out how to go about fixing the door I could have completed the job "correctly".

Don't assume we all run to the service center to have our wiper fluid filled. grin

Hey ST maybe you can come over and bend my wipers blades back where they were when I purchased them? Oh and I got a reciever I cant get out. Maybe you could bend that out? wink

What I was attempting to say was I let the "profesionals" take care of things like that for me. Ill just make the situation worse. I bet most would.

I have no problem with paying my shop to put my winshield wash in man. Of course they do it with my oil change that I dont do myself either. I tried once and said no way Ill pay someone to do that stuff. crazy Thats probably the only reason I still have my truck and its in ok shape. If I tried to do most of the work myself it would be sitting in the back yard getting rusty. It would surely be a FORD. Found On my Yard Dead. grin

I have a few small skills and playing mechanic or doing body work arent any of them. Electricity is another thing that I dont mess with. My door bell and front light still dont work right after 7 years. frown I got them going once and now Im afraid if I try again Ill start a fire or zap myself a good one. I wish I had more of those skills I would save some $. As it is I will just cost myself more money messing things up more.

I can however winterize my own boat. Thats about as in depth as I get with motors.

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Yea but there are things you can do well that I can't or wouldn't try doing either. Thats what makes the World turn round.

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I would give it a try yourself. Ive done it and it isnt that big of a deal.

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I am thinking that I will give changing the bushings a whirl. There was close to 1/2 inch movement when I grabbed the bottom of the door opposite of the hinge and gave it a lift. I would think that would probably allow the top to shift out about what I have for a gap.

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Yea but there are things you can do well that I can't or wouldn't try doing either. Thats what makes the World turn round.

Ya its a beautiful thing that way. Maybe if I didnt fish all the time I would have some time to pick up a book and learn some of this stuff. Nah that aint happening. Who am I trying to fool.! grin

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I am thinking that I will give changing the bushings a whirl. There was close to 1/2 inch movement when I grabbed the bottom of the door opposite of the hinge and gave it a lift. I would think that would probably allow the top to shift out about what I have for a gap.

Yes that sounds like the cause of your problems. A body shop will make quick work of this!

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New hinge pins and bushings along with a couple hours time and the door shuts and seals, no whistling grin Thanks for the help!

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