Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Hoffer

Please help with a few last minute winterizing questions

11 posts in this topic

Hey equipment experts.

I have a few last minute winterizing questions - I would love your help with!

1. Lower unit lube. I have a newer to me this year - 2003 mercury 75HP. I went to gander and grabbed a bottle of lower unit gear lube. When I got home I discovered it was "High performance synthetic" gear lube and it says it is recommended for HP of 100 or more. Will this be an issue? I put it in this afternoon cause I am running out of time - but I could still drain it and put in the 80/90 regular gear lube I have used with my other boat.

2. My old 40HP merc had an area where i could fog the carburator with the motor running and then I would fog it till the motor stopped. I would then spray some fogging stuff in the spark plug cyclinders too. With this new 75HP merc - I dont see anywhere I can fog the engine with - except for the spark plugs themselves. Should I just do the plugs then? and not worry about the rest? Or is there an area I am overlooking on the engine to fog?

3. Should I store the motor up with the transom saver on...or should I store it down all the way??

I am asking because to get it down all the way - I need to have the boat parked and then crank the jack stand all the way down to raise the motor enough so that it will go all the way down without the skid hitting the floor. I would like to take it to stoarage without the batteries in - but if its best to store all the way down - I would need to leave one battery in to trim the engine down once I get to storage.

As usual thanks for any tips and advice!!!!!!!

Hoffer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hoffer,

1 Since you already bought gear lube it you can use it, otherwise you can just drive to a Walmart and they sell Quicksiilver lube.

2 You might have to remove plastic resonator cover in front of the carbs so you can spray fogging oil.

3 Motor down, you don't have to keep battery on it to lower it. On the right side of the transom brackets there's a hole next to the base of the trim pump, you can see a large slotted screw head, take a large flat screwdriver and turn couterclockwise (unscrew it) that will release the hydraulics on your motor. Tighten it again when motor is down or REMEMBER to do it next year.... wink

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Store it with the motor all the way down, and take the battery out when you are done. Just bring it back before you take it out. I would think you would be fine with the gear lube and just fogging the spark plugs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so far for the comments...just wondering if the "syntehtic gear lube" is an issue since its different and not a quicksilver (mercury) brand? I cant imagine there would be that much difference in lower gear lube - and since this stuff said "high performance" I was actually hoping it might be good?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That oil will be just fine, in fact, I prefer synthetics. Never mind the 100hp and up thing. The difference bwtween standard lower unit lube and Hi perf is that Hi perf is synthetic. Run it.

Fog as Valv mentioned

Store down

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great-

Thanks alot guys. I will do everything - but will have to look again at the front of the engine. I took the cover off and did see a large rectangular plastic type of front cover. It looked like it was pretty well screwed in? maybe it comes off easy? If not, I may just fog the spark plug cylinders and call it good. Thats the other thing...the plugs wouldnt come off - they were on tight!! I just had the cheap 2.00 spark plug wrench thingy that comes wiht a little L type handle. Tomorrow I will hit the hardware store and get a regular spark plug socket wrench - I was surprised at how tight the plugs were!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't re-tight them that hard, remember your head is aluminum. I don't have a book anymore but I know Marine-Man and Boatfixer will chime in with correct torque specs....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. Got the plugs off easy with a decent spark plug socket. The cheap one just didnt have enough tork..but they came off pretty easy with the real socket. I didnt end up taking the front cover thingy off that covers the carb to fog it. I just sprayed some fogging oil in the cylinders with the spark plugs off and then turned the engine over a couple brief times then fogged them again - so hopefully they are coated well. I also ended up storing the engine "Up" with the transom saver holding the engine up. The reason why is that my storage place sometimes needs to move a boat around - and if I had it stored way down - without my battery they would be able to tilt the motor back up to move it if needed. So, hopefully those 2 things will be OK...not what I preffered - but hopefully will suffice?

Thanks again for the advice!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I understand it, the reason for storing "down" is that if it is outside the exhaust could get rain or snow in it and freeze, causing damage. Shouldn't be a problem if you are storing inside.

Just make sure you have tilted it down long enough to drain all water out before tilting back up and storing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a side note, if you have a livewell, make sure that all the water is out and I then put some RV antifreeze in the lines and also the pump. No need to worry about the water left there and freezing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Awesome pictures!!!
    •   StephenRamon, Welcome to the forum. Which did you think was Great? Putting the screws in boots or ATV tires? 
    • I was fortunate to see a tanager, blue-winged warbler, and a couple of young cranes all in one morning  on a walk in a park this week.       
    •   You will get plenty of recipes for a brine or injection, or even an injectable brine which work good for turkey breasts.  A common injection are the store bought ones you see in sporting goods stores in the cooking section. All kinds of flavors from Cajun, to Honey Butter, Garlic & Herbs, etc. Some even come with a free syringe.  Some simple injections you can make are apple juice (plain or jazzed up), beer with seasonings, a doctored up chicken broth and one of my favorites a Lite Apple Brine.  Since it's injected I like lower salt than you would use for an immersion brine.  My Lite Apple Brine's ratio is 1 gram of canning salt mixed into 1 ounce of apple juice.  If you buy an 8oz bottle of apple juice, just add 8 grams of canning salt, shake it and you are ready to inject.     Years ago I asked Old Dave, an online friend, for help on an injection for a pastramied turkey breast recipe I was developing.  He sent me a modified version of Shakes Injectable Brine, which is fancier than my Lite Apple Brine.... and guess what, I really like it too.  Here is the recipe... and if you want to read more, I'll have the link to my write-up below.  BTW, I was skeptical of the cloves, but I tried the first one following the recipe and it's good.  My only variation is I'll use agave nectar instead of the honey sometimes.    Old Dave's Poultry Injectable Brine, based off of "Shakes" Injectable Brine. 
      32oz clean water (non-chlorinated and not softened)
      1/4 cup pickling salt
      2 teaspoons of TenderQuick
      1/3 cup clover honey
      3-4 bay leaves
      1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
      1/2 teaspoon pickle spice

      Heat it up in a sauce pan but do not boil. For a 12-15 pound turkey, inject 2 oz in each leg, 2 oz in each thigh, and 4 oz in each side of the breast. 16 oz total per turkey. I like to do the injection at least 8-10 hours before the fire.   My Pastramied Turkey Breast write-up can be found HERE   EDIT, you smoke them until the internal is 165° to 170°.  An injection will help keep them moist even at the 170° temp.  I like a mix of cherry and hickory, but keep the amount gentle.  Apple would be a safe bet for your first one and you can always use a stronger wood next time.  
    • First off, the comment I made which you replied to with a hypothesis never stated that there was proof they did anything wrong. I merely and accurately stated that there was a chance they did some of the same things and it appears that may be the case.   You said plainly that VW could have chosen the Daimler tech but chose not to. In the end doing so may very well have found them in the same boat.    
    • Haula is probably going to see a lot of playing time so I don't doubt he will have some nice years, kind of like how Brodziak scored 20 playing as our first line center. I like Schroeder as first call up or emergency player but he just can't consistently bring it in the NHL, that is no crime because when he gets hot he is fun to watch but he just can't stay there. 
    • That's some good info, Thanks.
    •   I think they're shut down, too.  Smells like no money and more welfare...    
    •   Not sure if their still producing cardboard up at that plant anymore?
  • Our Sponsors