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Diver Gang Rig Diagram?

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I want to make my own gang rig and was hoping you guys could help with a list of what I need to purchase as well as a diagram. I've heard I should make one that drops so that dogs, motors, etc. don't get caught it the line.

Which line as well (don't want to buy something that floats)? Do you need the drop weights? It seems like the anchors will take care of that.

Do you unclip the drop line from the mother line or from the decoy? Which creates the least amount of snarles?

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For the precise reason of not wanting my dog to get tangled, i drop the decoys individually in a line. simply turn the boat and let it drift and keep dropping a deke over the side about every 4 to 5 feet to space them. I'm curious as well because the gang lines i'm familiar with have a big weight at each end and you simply snap the decoys into the clips. Problem is, if the dog tries to swim past and over the gang line he can get tangled up as you state. If you placed a clip between each decoy clip for a weight so that it pulled the cord downward between each decoy the dog may get through, but I still see him hooking the cord and then you have a problem. Glad you posed the question because I haven't come up with a fool-proof method myself and it's why I still drop the dekes individually.

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I bought two 150' trot lines that I use, run them out and then have a short (9) decoy splitter line in the middle. I use droppers 36" each. It helps to anchor both ends, I made my own with (beverage of your choice)can and quick crete and some 4" bolts thru the side and a couple links of old chain. Rigging my droppers is the main clip, then 36" of line and then I run a big snap swivel to the decoy. Drift out clipping as you go and then when you get to the end, line it up how you want it and drop the second anchor. I run between 18 - 24 decoys on each line, then 9 super mag Bills on my splitter line in the midle then another 2 -3 dozen single line dekes depending on how hard I want to work.

I set my lines up the night before in seperate decoy bags. I clip & unclip from the mother line as I drift out, the reason I use 36" droppers is that when I pull them up, I wrap and then use the main clip and secure it right below the snap swivel. Hope this helps.

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I made my own diver line for this year and so far it has worked great. It is simple, does not tangle and is very cheap to do.

I used regular coated decoy line for the main line. I bought two cheap metal fish stringers, and cut off those big clips to tie to the main line to attach decoys. I chose these because they are large enough to handle with gloves on during the later part of the season.

I attached these anywhere from 5 to 8 feet apart to give a non-uniform look. Then all you need to do is clip on a decoy and you're set. For an anchor, I tied on a larger clip that clips to an 8 lb. rubber-coated anchor.

To wrap the line, I cut a 1x6" about 18" long and a "V" in each end. I put in a small nail in the board to put the anchor clip on, then you just start wrapping and wrap the tag end around the nail when you're done. Put on a few extra clips so that if you're in deeper water, you can clip more towards the end furthest from the anchor to give you more line.

Hope that was easy enough to understand! Good luck.

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I did somthing simalar as Fish and fowl did except that I took tangle free decoy cord and eavy 5-7 ft tied an overhand loop in it and one on each end then on the decoys I tie a piece of regular decoy string about a foot then a clip like the climbers use got them at the dollar store. for storage I wrap it up on a wire spool from a wire feed welder its a bigger one that holds 44 lbs of wire for the wieght I use old window weights. I run more that one line so one the welding spool I cut a couple of nocthes and that helps it from unravelimg on the last line I wrap there is a piece of tape so I know which one should be the first one off.

I was at cabelas and last night and saw a good weight that would store nice and its only ten bucks its a canoe anchor that looks like a little grappling hook. just couldnt get my self to buy it thou mine work good and the price was right.

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I use a 80 feet main line. starting at one end i set my anchor, move into the line 10 feet and tie loops every 5 feet for the decoys to be clipped in. each of my main lines have 12 decoys. after the last decoy i have an additional 10 feet for anchor depth.

ill usually anchor my main line on the up wind direction of my line and leave thee other end anchorless so it difts in perfect direction of the wind.

The decoys have a 2.5' to 3' leaders made out of non-tangle line with a quick clip attached.

The best way i have found to dispense the line and to retrieve it is with a circular extention cord roller, it makes life much easier, especially with the ghg quick clips. one guys holds the extention cord roller and sets the anchor and tehn starts walking, the other guy walks behind him with the bag of deocys and simple clips them on.

I use one extention cord roller to hold several main lines. The tangle free decoy line on the decoys defffinately works keeping the leaders untangled in the decoys bag. Ive yet to have to untangle one.

i can set a main line in 10 minutes and retrieve it in 5 minutes.

i also use to use the cheap fish stringer clips like fish and fowl but i have buddies that believe you dont have to snap the stringer clips. Once we started hunting i would end up walking out to chase drifting decoys and clipping them in myself. The easiest way to fix this was to get clips that were iddiot proof which is the ghg clips.

anyways..just my thoughts and experience.


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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Correct! APRs could be set at whatever they want. I don't like APRs unless a region has a large enough antlerless herd to support the extra pressure it will take when guys aren't seeing legal bucks. (think fill the freezer)    Cervid farms are whole other can of worms. Not enough monitoring & regulation of them. I wish they would all go away. CWD is here now and it's not going away. I can only hope it stays contained to southern MN.   If "Party hunting" were stopped altogether (which I don't think will happen) the harvest would drop and the herd rebound would take care of itself in many areas IMHO, but it may be too bitter a pill to swallow for many groups. 
    • FB NEVER!!    Well maybe someday but I hope not.   Here’s one: APRs don’t have to mean 4 points on a side.  I don’t think it’ll ever fly for the whole state but what would the harm be in letting spikes and forks walk?   Heres two: Shut down the cervid farms now!  Buy em out with the money we’ll spend on CWD testing for eternity if we don’t.   Heres three: Stop party hunting bucks. 
    • I joined your group and already voiced my opinion on APR's. 
    • Exactly Dave! Trying to build a group of concerned hunters to try to give the generally passive group of folks a place to voice their opinions. There is nothing to buy, no advertising, and no set agenda. Just a place to bounce ideas and gauge what deer hunters are thinking, and Facebook reaches a much larger and more diverse group than forums these days. While I still like participating in forums these days, they are smaller communities with smaller demographics, and in the deer policy world, numbers count.
    •   Probably for the reasons stated in the original post.   Relax, they are just trying to get a group of like minded people together to discuss deer hunting issues in Minnesota. No one is selling anything that I can see. Do you even know what a Facebook group is?
    • Why would you come on HSO advertising a FB group?   Clickbait?  Or just an innocent miscue?  
    • I'm having trouble too. Wants me to sign up again and can't find the list of people signed up...
    • No. Save your money.
    •   I agree with you on giving back to the landowners. Without them alot of would have to sit at home.   Why the sturn no? Care to elaborate a bit?
    • Should get another way of doing the survey off Spacebook