Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
ZEEK1223

trouble getting my dog to give the birds up.....

12 posts in this topic

My lab only has about 10 swimming retrieves under his belt. The first half of those retrieves he would bring them right back to me and give them up right away. Now for some reason he thinks the birds are his, and he wants to investigate them a liitle more. He will bring the birds within a 10ft radius,and when I say come he will drop the bird and jump in the boat. My problem is I dont want to scold him after he swims out 30 yards and bring the bird back within 10 ft. How do I get him to give the birds to me without him thinking he is being scolded for swimming out and getting the bird? This is frustrating me, because he started off so well. It seems the more comfortable he gets with it. The more he wants the birds for himself. I have read not to use a shock collar when the dog has a bird in his mouth. thanks for any replies.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK - I'm certainly no expert, but I do know that when we are training springers - we often shake a dead bird for him to see when young pups who are prey possessive and bringing in a bird on a retrieve. That was really helpful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

CHECK CORD!!!

Your dog should retrieve all the way back to you every time. If he isn't consistent than he should still be on a check cord. The bird is never his and he needs to know that. It can be his prize and you can pet and praise him while he holds the bird (softly), but he needs to know his role.

It sounds like more training is needed to make him realize what is expected of him. It sounds like he knows the drill, but he doens't have the "manners" yet about his job. He gets tired of losing his prize so he tries to keep it.

A shock collar can be used if the dog understands its purpose. When my dog doesn't retrieve right to me or tried to walk to the side I give the command and a bump on the collar. He doesn't drop the bird, he comes to me. I praise him before taking the bird. This reinforces that the command was to come and he did it with correction. When he comes right to me he doesn't receive the shock.

I know its tough on water retrieves, especially with blocks in the water. A check cord can interfere or get tangled, but that is whats necessary. A dog who retrieves ten feet short means he saved you 80 feet of retrieve, but you still had to finish the job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I heard that they can think the bird is giving them a shock, and there for be shy to pick them up....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That dog may need to be force fetch trained.. It's not an easy or fun thing to do, but there are some guys on this web site who have done it and can give good advice on it. There have been some prior posts on the subject but i can't remember what they were called. But I do remember some guys had it down.. But don't be afraid to use a pro for this..Like I said it's not the most fun thing you'll ever do with your dog, but I would consider it if I were you ..good luck.uplander

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A check cord while duck hunting? If you use one you better be prepared to go into the water and untangle or save your dogs life.

The dog has only one place he can come out of the water and that is right in front of you. Meet him on the shore line and take it(not the bird but your training exercise) from there.

I would however go the FF route instead. What you explained is an obvious dog working for him and not you. As stated earlier he needs to know that this is a team effort, you shoot it and he retrieves it. Getting him thru the FF will change all that.

GOOD LUCK & GOOD HUNTING!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're holding the end of the check cord you can bring the dog in if necessary. Its not ideal for every situation.

A dog that has been properly collar conditioned should already know that the shock is a correction but not from the bird or the dummy etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Force training. Period. Then the collar IF NEEDED.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would like to try FF with my dog, but I don't know how. It might be something I try this winter. He is only two, but I think it is the perfect time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just an update: My dog has been doing much better. I have really been working on his retrieves weather its a toy or his training dummy. He is still pretty young, and now that I am actually shooting him some birds. He really doesnt need to investigate them as much. I think I was expecting too much too soon from my pup. Thanks for all the advice.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please don't use on shock collar to correct your dog when a real bird is involved, you might just turn him/her off to game. Use training dummies and force train retrieve if necessary and use commands like fetch/give to retrieve and give up the dummy. A check cord is useful for this as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    •   Del be fightin' with himself again. He likes that. 
    • I now boys fight Nice!!
    • Its a great house. Yep its heavy, yep the cover is bulky compared to a single layer, yep I'd buy it again. You can always pull down a zipper or 2 (front and back doors) if you get hot. For what its worth I switched from a Clam Yukon TC (normal sides with a insulated top) both are a similar size. On below zero days in the clam I would have to use a big buddy. In the otter I use a buddy and rarely turn it on high.
    • Ya, right. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA   From a car audio site....MOTORHEADS talkin'...   FlyinMiata9,
      A shorter antenna mast captures a smaller portion of a radio broadcast station's travelling radio wave. That results in reduced radio reception capability. The reduced radio reception capability may never be noticed if only listening to nearby radio broadcast stations in the city. 

      There's no overall magic of one short antenna over another. There are some that include a signal amplifier. They can at times enhance more distant radio receptions, but usually degrade other radio reception situations, often those where there are multiple strong radio signals in the reception area.

      The overall disadvantages of antenna amplifiers for car antennas tend to be far more predominant than advantages. There are some radio signal amplifiers for car antennas that automatically switch "off" when operated in a strong signal area. That can assist clearly listening to the nearby strong radio stations, but reduce the prospect of listening to any some distance away.

      There's always a prospect of the antenna you installed being defective, or not installed properly well mounted to the car's fender for a good electrical radio reception ground plane. Check to make sure the in-line Motorola connector set is fully pushed-in inserted together. 

      A simple way to test the antenna line and system is to tune in a weak AM radio station in the daytime and then grab hold of the antenna mast to detect stronger and louder reception of that weak AM radio station. Your conductive body mass adds some to the short antenna's reception capability. There may also be an initial "thump" sound as the car's radio makes an automatic adjustment of its radio reception sensitivity. If there's no dramatic change in weak AM radio reception, look for an open or shorted electrical problem. Best bet is a full length proper antenna.
    • The replacements most likely have tuning components built in.  And it isn't too big a deal anyway if you have decent signal strength.
    •     What are ya, a parrot? Someone needs to tune you...with 220 volts of inductance. *ZZZZZT*  
    • Well you guys could have given me this info before.
    • Not in disagreement....most Ice gear is though.   Just trying to find some feed back on if it works well and lights up like it should. 
    • My boy Isaac with his PB(and family best) 1lb 4oz bluegill.
    • That is a hog! 
  • Our Sponsors