Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
tracker x-2

Jerk string

11 posts in this topic

Just wondering if anyone on here has had much success with the jerk string. I recently bought one and was wondering if anyone has a good idea on how to keep the rope and bungee cord wrapped up neatly.

Any ideas would be appriciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep - I'm a fan. We shot some birds last Saturday on a calm day and I'm convinced they wouldn't have checked us out without the string. I made mine - too cheap to pay for it. the best thing to do is keep the long line on and extension chord holder (about $1) at any hardware store. We attach about 5-6 foot of bungee to an old window weight (5 lbs).

Basically what we do is put about 1/2 dozen birds on the a stringer - attach the farthest end with a clip to a loop at the end of the bungee and haul it out as far as you want them to be and drop it. Unwrap as much excess string as you need to get back to the boat. Works like a charm. We also keep the jerk string stuff all in its own decoy bag.

I hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hugo, where does the weight come in to play? Or where have you had the best luck placing the weight along the string of decoys? Do you attach the bungee to the closest decoy or the farthes? This sounds like a great idea.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey thanks never would have thought of a extension chord reel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hugo, where does the weight come in to play? Or where have you had the best luck placing the weight along the string of decoys? Do you attach the bungee to the closest decoy or the farthes? This sounds like a great idea.

I put the weight at the far end of the string with the bungee on it - that way you pull on the end in the boat and the blocks swim at you as it stretches the bungee out a bit. Let go and they swim back to where they started. We've not tried it with any of the long divers strings (15+ decoys) but it works great on the short strings of half a dozen birds we have set up. We typically keep 6 mallards, 6 divers, and six geese ready to be tied to the jerk string so that we can switch it up right out in the field depending on what's flying. I'm a terrible decoy tinkerer though and am lucky the boys didn't shoot me last weekend!!

I'll try to get smart enough to add a diagram.

The green eggs are decoys - the "big weight" is a 5 lb window weight. The "optional weight" is in case you have concerns about ducks flaring at a string being pulled on the surface. That weight can be another window weight. Problem is its a PITA to pick back up so I'd try it without the closest weight to the boat if possible.

Good luck. - erik

stringer.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you made me sit in the rain on Friday I did not think of taking you out but when you filled in the hole where the birds wanted to be on Saturday, that was right in front of me, I was thinking about it. Since you do all the work setting the decoys and moving them five times a day, I will let it slide and I will be the one pulling the jerk string. By the way, where did you get the bungee cord? Does Fleet Farm have something like that? They have everything other than diapers. I think I will build one here soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ACE for the bungee and as for filling in the landing pcoket - that was just to challenge you with farther shots!! Also, Fleet Farm has horse diapers just not the ones for kids.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not a bad diagram. Are you using a classic black bungee made out of rubber (they'd seem to be too thick) or did you use the type that is wrapped in nylon (they seem to be a little more stretchy). Is the bungee a little thinner than most?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wallter -

We use the 3/8" nylon stuff and about 5-6 feet of it.

Good luck - erik

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Walter, you buy this thin stuff by the foot at Ave. We used the white and blue stuff. Works great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also Instead of using a bungee, you can use a spring....similar to the type used on a screen door.....just not so heavy duty......the bugee will lose it elasticity in COLD water, the spring will not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Preds make it to the finals.  I thought someone said they were the last team in and technically the 16 seed.   Who ever they face in the finals it will be a battle, hope the Sens make it.  But would be nice to see Cullen get a cup.
    • My hunt in WI this past weekend was tough as well.  I found tons of ramps, they grow everywhere in the area we hunted, but zero morels.  I saw a few pheasant backs, but did not pick them as they did not interest me.  
    • I finally just said screw it, so I picked a couple of guys that I thought would do good (Christie, and Rojas) and some over looked guys that have had a little success this year, and were from the area.  Would never had expected Alton Jones Jr, to go from 80 something place on day 1 to the top 12.  Glad he was on my team though
    • Added these for the fry pan to go with some turkey also.  
    • If you haven't planted your tomatoes yet......plant them laying down on their side. Pick off all the branches up to the top.Lay the plant in a trench and cover the stem up to the top. Put a soil pillow under the top. Just be careful not to break the stem (I have). Tomatoes are the only plant that will send out roots from the buried stem. You will wind up with a large root ball to feed the plant. This also puts the roots closer to the surface where the soil is warmer instead of deep where it is cool.
    • Another disaster. I tried making relatively safe picks, and bombed. I have gone from the top 60 after two events all the way down to just over the 90th percentile. I need to just go with my gut
    • that is what we were thinking too.
    • Live link.   http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/features/webcams/falconcam/index.html      


    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
  • Our Sponsors