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WALLEYEDUDE2001

Insulating house floor question ?

8 posts in this topic

In the process of starting a wheel house & looking for options on ways people have insulated the floors of their houses. I am planning on being able to put a 4-wheeler in the house also.

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What I have done in the past is use 3 4x8 sheets of 1 1/2" pink foam sheets,that's for a 12' house. Laid 3/4 green treat first, then ran 2x4s on the outer edges of the sheet of plywood and on the seams. Cut the foam to fit inbetween the 2x4s and then put another layer of 3/4" green treated plywood on top of that, not the lightest way on earth, but it's warm enough to sleep on the floor if you had to.

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one guy on here said not to insulate the floor because it will keep it from freezing down I thought the opposite because it would keep the cold down and the heat up. But would like to hear more on that. Im gonna spray foam my floor once I get it completely built so that he can spray around the holes and what not.did that on my last house after 4 years foam looked excellant still. My opinion if I pull the house to a foam shop put it on jack stands my 7 x 16 should run 150 to 200 bucks way lighter than two sheets of plywood plus you hafta figure in the cost of the plywood towards insulation especially if used 3/4. Im half tempted to skip the foam to and try it with nothing.

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The lodge fish houses dont have the floors insulated. They have forced air heaters and they stay plenty warm. If you bank the house, the heat is "captured" (term used loosely) between the ice and the house and the house doesn't freeze down and the floor stays fairly warm.

I really dont think you gain a lot by insulating the floor (unless your going to sleep on it), but i think you loose heat more if you dont bank the house and the wind comes under the house.

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If you are going to have a 4-wheeler in the house you almost have to do it like honda400 said.Other wise you will get sags.I do a slightly different version.I only use 1/2" green on the bottom and treated 2x2 around the outside,but not on the cross seams,stagger the seams on the 1 1/2" foam.then I stagger the seams on the 3/4" green plywood using full sheets of plywood and having to split 1 sheet of foam, and use 3" deck screws through all to catch the bottom sheet of plywood or pre-drill and screw into the metal cross framing.(I glue and screw everything,but careful what you use on foam)A little trick I use on my frame walls is square them up using strapping band on the outside criss cross style and put a screw into each stud.When the walls are up I square the building that way as well corner to corner hitting each rafter with a screw once they are on.Makes for a very rigid home.Smaller houses I don't insulate the floors but on anything over 8 ft. your floors will be cold and never dry.

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I'm in the process of building my first wheeled house as well and the following is how I built my floor. 1st layer, 1/2" treated, then an insulating layer of 2" poly followed with 3/4" treated. I did not use any 2x4's for support on the exterior or interior of the floor as all i just altered the foam and plywood so the seams did not line up...it's a big sandwhich basically. I did first secure the 1/2 treated to the frame with fasteners and then used 4 3/4" stainless steel fasteners to secure the entire floor to the frame. I could not tell you if this is the correct way to do it, but it's now how it's done in my house. I don't know if you gain anything by framing out the floor with 2x4's, but extra weight.

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I have my floor insulated 3/4 ply then 2 inch blue then 1/4 ply 2x2s around the holes for support I don't think it does a bit of good feet get cold unless it is banked.

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without the 2x2 frame on the out side the foam will crunch when you run the wheeler in and with anything but 3/4 on top you will get sagging and movement on the top sheet.

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