Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
BLACKJACK

If you were going to buy a new bow, what kind would you get and why?

32 posts in this topic

If you were going to buy a new bow, what kind would you get and why (speed?, quiet?, price?). If you did buy a new bow in the last year, tell me why you picked that bow, what features it had that you liked, and price.

The reason I'm asking is that I accidently dry-fired my bow on Sat morning and one of the limbs has a hairline crack in it. My bow is a Golden Eagle, which isn't made anymore, I'm going to the archery shop Tuesday night to see if they can get me a replacement limb but just in case, give me your imput on new bows. Thanks!

To avoid the 'how in the heck did you dry fire your bow' questions heres the quick story: Two weeks ago I was practicing with my bow indoors on a rainy day and twice as I was pulling back the flipper style arrow holder put enough pressure on the arrow to pull it off the string. I just let down and reset the arrow. I tried to figure out how to adjust the flipper arrow holder but didn't, bad mistake. I had no more problems with my arrows popping off the string when I practiced the last couple of weeks. Sat morning I was out bowhunting, it was a foggy damp morning. At first shooting light a coyote came spooking thru. Didn't see him in time, but 5 minutes later when he came trotting back I was ready and as I drew back the flipper arrow holder 'squeeked' as I put the sight on coyote and pulled back, I got him in my sights and fired - TWANG!!! - I hadn't noticed that the arrow had come off the string, I was concentrating on the coyote and my sight. I think the high humidity was just enought to cause too much friction on the flipper type arrow holder.

The only good thing about this episode is that its September 29th and not October 29th!!!! Any thoughts on new bows would be apprecitated. Tell me what kind of arrow holder you use while you're at it frown .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I purchased a new Matthews DXT this past summer. I like the short bow, almost no hand shock and it shoots very quiet. Also fairly fast in the speed department.

As far as the price goes, I believe I paid around $850.00 for the bow. I have to admit that I did not look at any other brands as I'm a matthews kinda guy as I have been more than happy with my past bows and the archers I hunt with also shoot a Matthews and have been very happy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends on price point too.

I love Hoyts, but they are all good bows, Bowtech is another to look at, I have also wanted to check out the Bear Truth and Truth II bows, have heard good things about them. If I were buying a new bow today, I think the Hoyt Katera would be on the top of my list.

Oh yeah, trophy taker drop away rest, you'll never go back!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh yeah, trophy taker drop away rest, you'll never go back!

Thats the kind of info I'm looking for!!!

Strato, you were all over the board on your bows, what kind do you shoot?

Of course price is a consideration I just thought I'd find out what people liked and what they've had luck with, then consider prices. I probably will NOT buy a Fred Bear bows because they gobbled up Golden Eagle, which is what I've always shot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Best thing is to go to a Pro-Shop, not Cabelas or Gander Mtn, and shoot some different brands and see what you like and what is in your price range. The reason I said not Cabelas or Gander is becaue you'll have a tough time getting your bow fixed if something goes wrong with it, especially during hunting season. My dad has been in the archery business for 30+ years and always gets calls from guys who went to one of the above, something broke and are having a hard time getting service from the above. Buy from a local pro-shop, you'll be happy you did. Heaven forbid you break a limb or something close to or during hunting season. I guarantee you'll get better service from a pro-shop.

My dad handles Hoyt and Darton.

Brian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I went bow shopping a few years ago the guy's at Gander wouldn't even let me hold the bows......Horrible place!

Go to a pro shop!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry,

I shoot a Hoyt Cybertech. Absolutely love it, but shoot a few different brands to see what fits you and what you like better.

Sorry about your bow, that sux.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I own a Hoyt UltraTec, its a great bow, not sure if I would trade it for anything. They dont make them anymore either. I have shot the Katera and if I were buying now, thats the one I would get.

as for rests.. I too have a trophy taker and its very good.. I have a QAD Ultra Rest on my target bow and I am thinking of getting another of those for my hunting rig.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What Gander did you go to? I myself actually got better service at a Gander Mountain than at an archery shop. I was at the archery shop checking out bows and none of the workers even asked me if they could help me with anything. Went to Gander in Mankato and the archery pro there knew a whole lot about bows and helped me setup a bow that I have fallen in love with. Being my first bow and the fact that I'm a poor college kid, I went with the Fred Bear Instinct. I love the bow and don't regret the purchase at all. What I think that you have to keep in mind is that a bow is only as good as the accessories you put on it. If you're going to make a big investment and purchase a bow, you might as well spend the extra dollar to buy good quality parts. My bow was $400 but I bet the accessories added up to $250. Then again, it all depends on what you intend to do with the bow and how much you plan to use it. But I will say this, before you buy the most spendy bow in the shop, try out some of the cheaper ones first. You may be surprised at how nice some of them are. I really believe Bear makes quality bows for a beginning shooter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I forgot to give you my setup. Trophy taker rest (a must have), Team Extreme RT900 sight, Bohning 4 Arrow quiver, Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 350 grain arrows with the blazer vanes, and Rage 3 blade heads. I shoot at a 65lbs draw with a 27 inch draw length. Its not the fastest bow in the world but it's quiet, and if its quiet it doesnt have to be a scorcher. Shot a buck last year at 30 yards with a complete pass through so I'm not worried about penetration

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I shoot the Bear Instinct and really like it. A buddy got a new bow last month before going on his Elk hunt. He went into the shop determined to buy a Matthews but came out with the Hoyt Katera! Definitely shoot several bows before choosing one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think a lot of it is hit and miss, i find scheels to be very helpful, both kato and st cloud walked around there and was like like 5 times if i wanted to shoot any of the bows and if i wanted to just ask, so thats nice but really it depends on the place you go. Archery country in st cloud ive been in there a few times the owners son has never been to helpful to me but one other guy there was very helpful. Just a hit and miss thing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, I can see it now, BlackJack sitting at home thinking, how can I convice the wife I need a new bow. Wait a minute, I know! lol grin I second Scheels, expecially St. Cloud, which is closer to you. That place is the best. I've never went elsewhere because they treat me so well, especially the archery manager. And they don't pressure you to buy everything and anything.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey PFUNK how do you like your Team Extreme RT900 sight? i was looking at one and am considering on putting it on my new bow when i get one. To answer the origianl question I bought a bowtech tribute last year for the fact that that bow can just straight up shoot and was fairly fast. i had a hostage rest on it which was nice if you like a whisker bisket style rest but dont want your fletching to touch. On my next bow i will put a QAD ultra rest pro series drop away rest for sure. As for getting a new bow im really leaning towards the DXT but will shoot a hoyt and possibly some others before making my final choice. Good luck and i hope things work out for you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A couple of you guys have mentioned the Trophy Taker rests, I did a search on them, they look nice, no fletching interference because it 'falls' out of the way, but if you read my original post the problem I had was with the arrow holder, the flipper above the arrow. What kind of arrow holder do you use?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well you see my friend, this solves all your problems then, no need for an arrow holder with the drop away. It acts as an arrow holder as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As mentioned, the Trophy Taker is a great rest. In the drop-aways, you can't go wrong with a Ripcord or QAD either. No fletching contact, simple to setup, and no flipper required. More money than some, but worth it IMO.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What kind of fletching do you guys use while deer hunting?

Plastic? Feather?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Blackjack- I don't know if you have been there or not, but there is a proshop by litchfield called Minnesota Archery. They gave me the best service i have seen by a proshop. Matt is the guy that helped me on several visits to the shop. I don't know what brands they all carry, but the service was great. Just another place that is not too far from willmar to check out if you get a chance.

I have a QAD ultra rest pro HD, love it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As the others have already said, I would go with a drop away rest. I have shot the Trophy Taker and it is a nice rest. Now I am shooting the Rip Cord drop away. It is nice because you can shoot it like a regular drop away (rest goes up on the draw and down on the shot) or you can lock it up with your arrow held in place, the rest still drops away on the shot. As for bows I shoot a Bowtech Allegiance and love it. I have also shot Mathews and Hoyt bows and they all make nice bows.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are interested in a mathews(dxt,drenalin) stop in at DJs in Monte. Also carry reflex and bear.

I shoot a Mathews s2 with a QAD rest(will never anything else),cobra sight, carbon express aramid kv arrows with blazers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got the PSE Xforce in 6" brace height. Its compact, fast and easy to handle. The grip is great is the riser is well designed for all the accessories. Some people say its a harsh draw cycle but I think its very smooth. You have to realize that my 60lb bow shoots faster than my old 70lb bow. I can't hardly draw this bow at 70lbs, but thats okay cause I don't need to. Its got more power at a lesser draw weight.

I definitely recommend a dropaway containment rest. I had a ripcord on my old bow and I have one on my new bow bow. I love'm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lots of options for bows out there and going by everyone's strong opinions a lot of good ones. I shoot a Mathews Switchback, and love it. If I had chosen a Hoyt, BowTech, PSE, etc, it would have been cause it felt right, and most likely would have loved one of those too.

If I were buying a new rest(Have a Trophy Ridge drop zone now) I'd go with the QAD Ultra. However many people like their Whisker Bisquits. They may be the best choice if you're concerned about a straight down shot from a tree stand.

I have an Apex sight I bought last year. Has the small pins which has helped my accuracy especially on 30+ yard shots. Has really held up well and haven't had to make any adjustments since I first dialed it in. I wouldn't try to get by and save a buck on those two items.

Have fun on your quest!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Live link.   http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/features/webcams/falconcam/index.html      


    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
    • Try a compression check. And make sure the choke is opening all the way.
    • They are not the best out their but for the price and your average person not too bad I guess, Its going to send lead to where its pointed. This is probably what is going to happen he is going to buy a package shoot it for awhile then start upgrading everything to how he wants it and it is going to end up costing way more than if he just built one himself how he wants it.  
    • Hello, well I convinced my brother in-law to pick up my buddies old 1980 185 although pretty sure he said it was bored out to a 200? Here is the deal it's been sitting for a solid 8 years. I know it ran fine before. Not the delema-----   It starts right up (he bought a new carb odd amazon) although it sounds like a jet with high rpms. Looked at the throttle cable that's fine. Floats are fine. So he plugged this hole in the air filter and got it to idle down although when he hit the gas wouldn't get any power. Read a few things online and they tell you to just bypass the filter box and all that so back to amazon we went to get one of those filters that mount right up to the carb and it's still the same issue..   I just haven't seen anything like this? Do you guys have any thoughts or tricks that we/he could try?! Thanks in advance
    • Hi Everyone,  I'm looking into buying my first true fish finder and I'm a little perplex with the mapping card situation.  I'm looking at Humminbird Helix 5's and 7's.  I'm drawn to the autochart feature.  From my understanding, you can record 8 hours of charting onto the internal storage, but, is there any native mapping included on the unit or do I absolutely have to get some sort of mapping chip, zerolines or lake master, or navionics?  Can I store data on a blank SD card?  I've been researching this a lot and haven't found any conclusive answers. Thanks everyone!
    • Saul Good, Man.....  LOL 
  • Our Sponsors