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bapperpimp

1998 Mercury 4 stroke kicker - doesn't run quite right

18 posts in this topic

Just bought a Warrior V193 with a 200hp merc plus a 9.9 4 stroke kicker. The 200 runs like a dream but the kicker doesn't run quite as well. First off, it takes like 2-3 minutes to warm up - even when its hot out. Then, when putting it into gear, it likes to die. I then have to get it warmed up again and try it again. It will die again. After several times doing this, it finally will keep running and stay in gear. Its like I have to crank the shaft as fast as possible when its in neutral until I get it to go into gear. Once I get it in gear, it will run all day as long as I keep it in gear, ie trolling plugs with my downriggers. But once I shut it down, move to next stop, I do this all over again. Any ideas what could be wrong or things I could try to make it better?

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Might be an issue with the fuel lines, especially if both motors are run off the same tank. Best way to go is to have each fuel line with bulb / check value run directly to the tank. If each aren't run directly to the tank the next best is a switch to turn on one line and turn off the other line. Next best is a T between the tank and the bulb / check valve for each motor. Kickers from that vintage were famous for having problems getting fuel unless the fuel lines were configured correctly.

Even if the configuration is okay, the fuel system still might be sucking air somewhere .....

Good luck getting it figured out.

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Sounds too lean, might just have to fatten up the idle mixture.

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How are your fuel lines setup?

If you don't have two seperate lines to the fuel tank, or a T with a valve in it I would try that out first, that, or use a portable tank to see how the motor runs then.

It sounds like you need to prime the kicker motor before starting it, and a valve or seperate line from the tank to keep from pulling air from the other fuel line.

marine_man

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It does indeed use the same tank and there is no T involved anywhere.

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It does indeed use the same tank and there is no T involved anywhere.

If each line goes directly to the main tank then that is the best setup you can have, as long as each fuel line has it's own bulb and check valve.

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Yes, both have their own line and their own bulb.

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I have the same motor, but 1997 model. Fortunately, mine is electric start, and with the automatic choke system. Easy on the body. wink Mine ran exactly like what you are describing. Very cold blooded and inconsistent.

However, I re-built the carb with a new carb kit and all my problems went away. Now I love the motor, it runs/starts perfect. It is not a difficult fix. Try that, if you haven't.

My boat has a seperate inboard tank for the kicker and I only run non-oxy with fuel stablizer/cleaner mixed in. No problems in 2 years now... After trouble shooting this issue 2 years prior I felt the carb was sensitive to the ethanol blend fuels.

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Mine is also electric start. I guess I will need to have the carb rebuilt and see if that helps.

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Also make sure your bulb for the kicker stays hard, those things can lose pressure easy and go bad. Cheap easy fix. I have a 2005 merc 9.9 and it too is cold blooded. I start it before I shut off the 125 and pull up the idle arm so she runs high for a couple minutes before I engage gear. With the gas prices, those kickers are the best thing since sliced bread. One trip across a lake with the 2 stroke = around a half tank (10 or more gallons) The four stroke can run 2 summers on 12 gallons. I love to troll!

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I presume you pump the primer bulb prior to starting, right?

When you're spinning it over I'd check the primer bulb, as davesfriend said - is it still firm, or is it getting soft?

If it's still relatively firm, a carb rebuild is where I'd head next.

I'd take a look at the automatic choke system too to see if it's engaging as intended.

marine_man

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I am pumping the bulb until hard before starting and it stays firm while being operated. It sounds like the carb needs to be re-built. Anybody know anybody trustworthy that can do this for me up in the Lake of the Woods area? Estimated cost? My boat is currently at Arnesen's. I am guessing I should wait until spring anyway though.

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Try taking a small, portable gas tank (3g works well), fill it with non-oxy gas, stabil, and a can of seafoam (yep a whole can). Now, run your kicker on that at various throtle positions. You may notice that it will troll better. I use that around once a month to keep my kicker idling nicely.

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Dink, I will try it in October when I am at LOW for the fall fishing. I can't wait.

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Anybody know anybody trustworthy that can do this for me up in the Lake of the Woods area? Estimated cost?

I don't have any experience with dealers up there, but have heard good things about Lake of the Woods Marina. I would get a hold of Curt Quesnell on the LOW forum and see if he has any reccomendations.

Cost? $200 or so... it should be pretty quick.

I wouldn't wait until spring unless there was no way around it. Spring is a extremely busy time for marine dealers and you may be without your boat for a while. Fall is as good as time as any for this kind of work.

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Marine Man, good point. I will have to weigh my options as far as timing goes and devise a plan. It would be a crime to be without my boat in the spring!

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