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MWellner

Carb Help-20hp Johnson

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Continuation of http://www.fishingminnesota.com/forum/ub...Sol#Post1518434

I have removed the carb, and inspected a few components

Low speed screw- black plastic knob at upper front of carb, needle is pointed, exactly what it is supposed to look like in the manual.

Float- Seems in good shape, good tension. Float drops at

1 1/16". Manual says it should be between 1 1/8" and 1 5/8".

Nozzle which is in the center of the float, you can see a tube inside this nozzle, it seems bent against the inner wall of the nozzle, and it has green spots on it, and also if you look through the carb bore, you will see green spots on the upper part of the nozzle. Can I remove the nozzle at the slotted end?

The float bowl was bone dry. But the bottom of the carb and float did have a hint of fuel.

Heres the kicker, my manual says I should have a Type II carb, but I have what appears to be a Type IV carb which is meant for 40 to 60 hp OMC outboards as opposed to a Type II which is for more like a 20hp.

I am using the Seloc manual.

Inlet needle- It looks like I need a wide slot screwdriver to remove the inlet needle. What do I look for when removing the inlet needle?

Do I need to replace the high speed orifice at the float bowl?

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Are you sure you have a 1982?

EDIT: You don't mention why you removed the carb. After replying and reading the post I'm assuming you can't get the outboard started. It appears from this post and your previous post that when you squeeze the primer bulb, it gets firm but the carb bowl is dry. Improper float drop and or stuck inlet valve is the problem. I've answered the questions below.

"I have removed the carb, and inspected a few components"

Now you need to clean it.

"Low speed screw- black plastic knob at upper front of carb, needle is pointed, exactly what it is supposed to look like in the manual."

This(low speed mixture screw) needs to be removed in the cleaning process.

Before doing that you turn the low speed screw in till it just seats and you count those turns so you can get it back to where it was for assembly. Not a huge deal if you didn't do that but but you can't just put the cover and knob back on. You'll have to adjust the low speed mixture with cover and knob off. Once you get it to idle smooth then replace the knob. I don't know the initial starting point so just back the LSM Screw out one turn and start there.

"Do I need to replace the high speed orifice at the float bowl?"

No, remove it and clean it out with spray can carb cleaner. then blow out with compressed air. Note that if its clogged with dirt or varnished badly you can then replace it.

"Inlet needle- It looks like I need a wide slot screwdriver to remove the inlet needle. What do I look for when removing the inlet needle?"

That would be the inlet seat. No need to take it out unless your replacing the seat and needle. Look at the tip of the needle if its worn or if you have a problem with it shutting off the gas supply or if it sticks then replace it.

"The float bowl was bone dry. But the bottom of the carb and float did have a hint of fuel."

Are you saying you tried to prime the carb with the primer bulb and after the carb was removed the bowl was dry?

If so, stuck needle and seat(inlet valve) or stuck or improper float drop.

"Nozzle which is in the center of the float, you can see a tube inside this nozzle, it seems bent against the inner wall of the nozzle, and it has green spots on it, and also if you look through the carb bore, you will see green spots on the upper part of the nozzle. Can I remove the nozzle at the slotted end?

A manual will tell you not to remove it. I remove them and clean them out. Just don't damage it.

"Float- Seems in good shape, good tension. Float drops at

1 1/16". Manual says it should be between 1 1/8" and 1 5/8".

Could be why your bowl was dry.

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Funny thing about generic manuals, they don't always explain everything. They are, for the most part, guidelines.

Pick up a carb kit (OMC #396701 or Sierra #18-7042) and do just as Frank layed out for you.

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