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Musky_Madness

2004 Altima Fuel Problems/Error Code

24 posts in this topic

Hello

My wife's 04 Nissan Altima 2.5L is getting funky. A few weeks ago I went through and replaced the spark plugs and put in platinum plugs and used the anti-seize and dielectric grease and did not overtighten. Shortly after that, her car started acted funky and I'm hoping it's coincidence and not my mechanical skills. Here's what is happening. When driving at speeds under 30, waiting at a stop sign/light, or starting the vehicle, it will crank and crank and crank but not start. It's trying to, but it sounds like it doesn't have any fuel to ignite. After several tries it will eventually start. I did some snooping around this AM and checked with the auto parts store and they ran the codes on the car and popped up a P0725 code "Engine Speed Signal". We cleared the code. We were thinking that it might be a fuel filer/pump issue but the code doesn't match up to that? I drove the car around for awhile without and problems after the code cleared and we even tried putting a new gas cap on it thinking it was not venting properly. This seemed to be the trick for a little while and then several hours/trips later around town it started occasionally dying again. So now I am trying to see if it is even the fuel pump/filter? The parts guys couldn't find a part for the fuel filter and said that there wasn't a fuel filter on the car and was all built into the fuel pump or in the gas tank. To sum it up, any other possibilities it could be and what would a price tag on something like this run from the dealer?

Thanks In Advance....

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What kind of plugs?

If the threads of the plugs where silver, not black, DO NOT USE ANTI_SEIZE! The silver is a nickel plating that resists corrosion -and allows the plug the be installed without anti-seize.

Even if the tank was not venting properly it would likely not cause a stall. So the gas cap was not necessary. Did you replace it with a dealer cap or one from autozone. If it came from autozone put the old one back on. You will be better off in the long run.

Find the fuel rail. On one end there will be the pressure regulator pull of the vacuum hose and see if fuel comes out of it. If it does replace it. I'm not entirely sure if an 04 has one still but if it does it would be the first thing to check!

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If the threads of the plugs where silver, not black, DO NOT USE ANTI_SEIZE! The silver is a nickel plating that resists corrosion -and allows the plug the be installed without anti-seize.

Let's say for the sake of argument that someone used anti-seize on plugs with silver threads... blush What problems could this cause?

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It likely won't but it can interfere with how the plug grounds itself to the head.

If there black than a theres no problem with sparingly apply it to the plugs. If there silver there is no need, but again it can be applied sparingly. That being said most people assume that if a little is good than more has got to be better........

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It likely won't but it can interfere with how the plug grounds itself to the head.

If there black than a theres no problem with sparingly apply it to the plugs. If there silver there is no need, but again it can be applied sparingly. That being said most people assume that if a little is good than more has got to be better........

I applied it sparingly, so I should be ok. I've had no issues anyway, but I just wanted to be sure.

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Musky what brand of plugs did you install?

It is more than likely a coincidence. Unless you installed the brand of plugs I think you did? grin

Did you have to remove the air tube between the filter and the throttle body?

Did you check to see if there is a pressure regulator?

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I used Platinum NGK plugs and there was a long tube that went down into the engine compartment for each plug that contained the leads. I had to remove the plastic engine cover as well.

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Musky are these coil over plugs, Each plug has its own coil that sits right on top of it, or are they wires. If there wires it might not be a bad idea to check your work. It is very possibly that the terminals in the spark plug boots have pushed up into the boot and are no longer seated onto the spark plug.

NGK's are the right choice for this engine so I wouldn't expect the plugs themselves to be the problem. Make sure you have them tight enough! They should of had a metal gasket that was right above the threads. That is a crush gasket. Basically you will tighten the plug until it just starts to feel snug than another 1/4 to 1/2 turn until it is tight. I have had many imports with customer installed plugs that where loose enough to remove with just a socket and extension (no ratchet).

If your work looks good than it would be worth your time to bring it in for at least a heads up on whats going on. This could be anything from fuel to vacuum leaks to sensor issues.

One last thought it may not be a bad Idea to at least clean the MAF (Mass Air Flow)sensor and see if that helps.

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I'll pull out the plugs tonight and see if that's the deal...i put them on with a socket/extension so will tighten them up a little bit.

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Well went back in and gave them an extra 1/2 turn on the socket and they firmed up a lot. I didn't have it die at all after driving and stopping and shutting it off and turning it back on. It does seem a little sluggish at times and a little jerky though. Should I run some carb cleaner through it and see if that'll cure it all now?

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It has a carburetor? I thought carbs went bye bye with mullets

laugh

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My bad...I don't know what I was typing...Fuel Injector cleaner...and I did put a little jug of Gumout in

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Went to the Auto Store today and had the code cleared again. The code today was P0335(Crankshaft Position Error). Now what? Had no problems today driving around. and the light hasn't come back on.

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That sounds way more likely to cause the problems you are describing. The first code may have been a fluke but the crank code sounds legit. If it comes back on it needs to go in to get checked. The amount of money you will need to spend just to buy the equipment to diagnose will far exceed the cost of diagnoses and repair. It could be anything from faulty wiring to the sensor to the PCM or in the case of Honda CRV's an aftermarket alternator belt will set this code.

I have not run into this yet on a Nissan so I couldn't even speculate on a common cause.

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I would take a close look at the crank sensor itself, see if it is oil soaked, check the connections on the connecter. Just look it over and if you dont see anything then I would bring it in and get it diagnosed at a shop.

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I work at a Nissan dealer. The 2.5 original crank sensors were notorious for failing. The original ones are crank sensors outsourced from the US and Mexico. Now all the new crank sensors are made in Japan. The new style crank sensor looks totally different from the old one. It seems like with the new style crank sensors the issues have been resolved. If you have any other questions let me know.

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Honda, where were you last week? grin

I totally forgot about you switching to nissan otherwise I would have looked you up on this one. Thanks for sharing!!! That is deffinetely something that is good to know!

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Honda, where were you last week? grin

I totally forgot about you switching to nissan otherwise I would have looked you up on this one. Thanks for sharing!!! That is deffinetely something that is good to know!

I have been too busy lately that I haven't been on the boards, sorry. I sold my boat frown and after that fishing has been almost non-existent. Ice fishing season is coming up so I will be popping up again.

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Thanks! Is this a warranty deal or my own pocket?

You have probably past the 3 years/36,000 miles warranty so it likely you will have to fork money for it unless you have extended warranty. Powertrain is for 60,000 miles but a crank sensor is not considered a powertrain part. I know that the crank sensor is only around $50 and solves your symptoms you have described. I'll even get you the part number of crank sensor when I get a chance sometime tomorrow, fishingmn is banned at my workplace. crazy

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