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Tom I Am

Yamaha F115 4 stroke trolling speeds

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I have a Lund Mr Pike 18 and the 115 Yamaha 4 stroke. I can troll down to 2.8 MPH minimum. (No wind or current) Is this what others are experiencing? Would a different prop allow me to get to my desired 2.0 MPH target? Thanks!

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A smaller pitch prop would help you get a slower trolling speed, but you're going to sacrifice top end performance, which is more important in my opinion - if you change to a lower pitch prop you'll have awesome hole shot but run a substantial risk of over-revving the engine, doing damage over time.

If you're motor is running where it should be at top end (up around 6,000 rpm) I'd explore a drift sock to slow you down.

marine_man

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I installed one of the hydrofoil / flip down devices ( I think it was a hydro-troll) and it slowed down the trolling speed very nice (Around 1 mph if I remember correctly) the problem is that I could never get it to come back up without breaking the shear pins so I removed it. Maybe a different brand of one would be worth trying??

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Jonny P did some experimenting and switched to a 4 blade prop. I followed his advice and got a 4blade 17" pitch. Also asked the marine shop to tweak the engine a little. Anyway end result is 1.8mph to 2mph with engine just in gear. Hole shot is greatly improved and I only lost 4mph off the top end. I run a 1750 Fishhawk. Drift socks are also a must. Can use them for both drifting and trolling.

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Leave the motor alone and toss out a drift sock. Just learned that trick this summer in Alaska trolling for Kings...

By the way, I have an F90 on a Fishhawk 1750 and can just barely troll down to 2 mph without a drift sock.

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I have a 115 yamaha 4 stroke and with a 15" alum I can troll down to about 2.0 and with a 17" stainless I can get 2.2. If its too fast I drop the bowmount down and turn it sideways or however it gets the speed where I want it. If Im going with the wind and Im still too fast I drop out a small drift sock.

The 15 alum will over rev my motor at WOT and the 17 stainless runs at between 5800 and 5900 depending on the load that day.

Oh I forgot. If I fill both livewells I can slow the boat down a bit more.

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Thanks for some interesting ideas. I'll have to pick up a drift sock. I'll try the live well filling and trolling motor down this weekend. I should be able to get there without tweaking the motor or prop.

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What year is the engine?

I don't recall if the 115HP engines were capable of using the Variable Trolling Speed switch, but it may be something to look at adding. I have it on my 90HP tiller and I rigged one up for a buddy with a 75HP console and he loves it to death, as do I.

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What year is the engine?

I don't recall if the 115HP engines were capable of using the Variable Trolling Speed switch, but it may be something to look at adding. I have it on my 90HP tiller and I rigged one up for a buddy with a 75HP console and he loves it to death, as do I.

The 90 hp is the largest engine available w/ that option as of now. Sweet feature though, I wish my motor had it.

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I have a 2002 F115 on a Mr Pike 17. I troll down to the 1.9 -2.1 mph range w a 13X19 prop. I pull # 7 Raps in the shallows and do just fine with it. That is with the motor just bumped in gear.

Steve

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LMITOUT,

How did you rig this for a console version? Is this something easy to do? I have a F75 that was new this year, but is run remotely on a console. I also don't know a lot about this, but do a lot of trolling so please give some specifics on what it does.

Thanks!

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Sure. There are two different VTS modules for the Yamaha tillers. One is built right into the handle and is flush mounted. The other one mounts externally to the handle with two screws and is a self-contained unit with a short cable coming out of it that connects to the engine.

What we did with that 75HP console I mentioned was to buy the self-contained VTS switch and then just extended the cables to reach the console because the factory wire harness is short (made for tiller).

I had some four conductor low voltage cable that I used to extend the factory harness by clipping the factory wire at a convenient spot, and then soldered in the extension cable between the connector and the VTS switch itself. The key is you need to retain the connector on the harness to make it easy. Don't throw it away after clipping the cable.

After extending the harness wires, route the cable back to the engine and plug it in! Take the hood off and look on the front/bottom of the engine block you'll see a white connector that is unused except for a dummy plug to keep the elements out.

The boat owner mounted the switch near the throttle control with a couple of screws and he said he loves it. I believe the switch was around $70???

It is truly plug and play!

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