10,000 Casts Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Just bought a Wild action Weagle and the darn thing just won't run. No matter what leader and what Rod I use, I can't get it to run right. It looks fine, so what should I be looking for on the bait?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dogger Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 There is a chance something is wrong with the bait, but my guess is you are trying to run it to fast with short strokes. Try slowing way down and note your slack line control. I guess the first question I should ask is do you run other walk the dog baits just fine, or is this a new art to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjac Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Hey John, Dogger hit it......try to slow it down and shorten the movement to taps. What's it doing or not doing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoBox Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 How stiff a rod do you use for WTD lures? I have a 7 foot jerbait rod that I love but think the tip may be a bit too stiff as I've had some trouble. I may go back to the old beat up broken in rod for WTD's. Problem is its more of the pool cue length and I've really gotten used to the longer sticks. Any thoughts.-erik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10,000 Casts Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 I consider myself to be pretty good at all WTD lures no matter what size or Cadence. I tryed it fast, slow and in between and this weekend I had 3 rods in the boat, 8ft MH, 8'XH and my 7'2" H. I tryed it on all 3 rods with piano wire and flouro leaders. It just won't walk like the other weagles that I have thrown. In a ft chop, I would be somewhat working it and all of a sudden it would divebomb and run like a glide bait then pop back up. Kind of cool but I couldn't control when it would do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b1gf1sh1 Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 maybe check the tie eyes and the hook eyes. see if maybe they are bent or not aligned.. sounds almost like the tie eye is bent down. or maybe you got a phantom flaw from the manufacturer? good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10,000 Casts Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 Not the eyelet, that was the first thing that I checked after it dove on me and ran like a wabull for a bit. Oh well, I will just return it and try a new one. Thanks for the imput guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskieMojoTackle Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 Sounds to me like you need more slack.Here's a tip on getting the right slack in the line...After the cast, engage your reel and drop your rod tip to the surface of the water without reeling up the slack. Now start working the bait, and you should be all set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10,000 Casts Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 Thanks Luke, I am going down to my dock right now to try it again but I tryed it with alot of slack and slow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HugoBox Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 Luke - What length and action rod do you like the best for WTDs? I was using a 6'-2" Med-Hvy but I've sort of migrated to the longer sticks.thanks - erik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskieMojoTackle Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 John, if you cant get it going send it to me, and I will replace it.Erik, use what you're comforable with.I can use about any rod in the boat with the Weagle. I've used everything from 6'6" pool cue to 7'6" MH to 8'6" H/XH to 9'6" XH. I can get good results with any of them. I prefer the longer rods simply because that is what I own more of and I am more comfortable with them.Lately, my favorite has been an 8' MH Fig Rig. I can really make it pop with that baby. When I'm trying to lighten the load in the boat, I generally throw it on a 9' St Croix that Pro Edge built for me on the Legend Tournament bass swim bait blank. That blank is just awesome, and it works great for walkin' the Weagle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tippman Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 So Luke when you're using the 9' rod for walk the dog you must have it off to the side, or are you jerking into the water?I have the legend swim bait in an 8'6" and love it to death but seems too long for wtd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskieMojoTackle Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 So Luke when you're using the 9' rod for walk the dog you must have it off to the side, or are you jerking into the water?I have the legend swim bait in an 8'6" and love it to death but seems too long for wtd Yep, down and to the side. I'm a little taller than the average bear as well, so I can get away with a longer rod easier than some.Whoever said your rod had to be straight down when working a WTD was wrong.Working the rod down and to the side puts you in much better position for a hookset than straight down also.That 8'6" Legend will make an awesome Weagle rod. Give it a try, and I know you'll learn to love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjac Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 I use an 8' Pro Edge Diamondback rod for the WTD lures and can make a WTD lure like a Weagle move pretty well. Today's superlines make it fairly easy, shorter taps to the side. The day's of the "jerk to the feet" move are more from older lines. A guy like Luke can basically make a Weagle dance side-to-side in place, slack line can be a huge help, not a hinderance. The rod to the side is a great help at boatside, it allows me to bring the bait alongside the boat and keep a retrieve going, and take it into a wide turn, not end it 5 feet away from the boat on a straight-out retrieve....hope that makes sense. If I have a hot fish and I want to go topside, I'll just switch the lure out and throw it on my 8'6" or 9' rod if the topside rod isn't ready. In fact, I like the 9' rod for inline topwaters like a Pacemaker. Tipp: That's a great rod, a little practice and you will really like it for topside fishing. Side note: I "T" my hooks on topwaters, reduces hook rash and foul-ups on the cast with the leader. I also am leaning towards thinking it helps with my hook-up % too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b1gf1sh1 Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Quote: Side note: I "T" my hooks on topwaters, reduces hook rash and foul-ups on the cast with the leader. I also am leaning towards thinking it helps with my hook-up % too. one sure way i've learned to adjust/make my baits by is how the major players do it. major companys have the where-with-all to spend money on research and have the pull to get the pro's to do it for them. that said... look at the top-prop by mr.twister. has a stock tandem hook. reason they say is for better reeling through very weedy/bullrushy/lily paddy areas.(true IMHO) also in talking to a mr.twister distributor it's about hook-ups too. years ago i read a piece on changeing hooks on some lures over to tandems or singles. basicly the concept was sound i figured. the trouble with a treble lies in the fact a fish get's better leverage on the hooking hook(s) from the other free hook(s) enableing them to throw the lure easier. and also makes getting the initial hook up harder with so many hooks and hook area. with a single or tandem theres less leverage makeing it more difficult. also makes hooking easier, so there really is some science to back your ''leaning'' propensity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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