Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
nomorspam

Price seems right but. I have a few concerns (updated)

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to buy my first boat (although I grew up on and around boats living on a lake) and I've been pricing for about a month and this seems like a great deal

Selling a 1992 Sunbird Corsair with a 3.0 L OMC inboard/outboard engine. The engine is 130 hp, boat is 17 ft. long with new trailer tires and cover. Runs great, and priced well below book value at $1850.

010202010411011604200808318849c5221627cb

010201011612010303200808317b74b910c9d53c

I emailed with a few questions here's the cut and paste because there wasn't much info on the post

How long have you owned the boat and do you know how many owners it has had?

We have owned the boat for a year and to the best of our knowledge we are the third owners.

Are there any known engine problems, does it need a tune-up or anything more pricy?

There are no known engine problems, the boat has a brand new starter, we did not give the boat a tune-up in the year that we owned it, and it ran great the only time we had it on the water this year.

Has it ever been used in salt water?

To our knowledge it has never been used in salt water.

Who has done any maintenance/repairs on the motor and what type?

We do not know of any major repairs done to the motor, the only thing we have done is replace the starter.

What are the hours on the motor? And/or mileage?

I am out of town until Thursday so I do not have that information, but I would guess fairly low since we have not used it much this year and the previous owner did not use it much in the last few years he owned it.

How has the boat been stored? Winter/summer?

In the year that we have owned the boat it was shrink wrapped and winterized, and then we have stored it at our house under a new cover that we bought and will include with the boat.

How is the interior any rips tears?(more than likely at the seams at almost 20 years old) pics of interior would be great if you have them

The interior has had normal wear and tear, there are a few small rips but no gaping holes or bad tears.

Are there any unlisted accessories that come with it? (ie anchor vests...)

We will include an anchor, ski rope, a paddle, and a small tool kit that we keep in the boat.

What type of trailer is included? What year? Any maintenance or repairs needed?

It is a standard galvinized boat trailer that is the same year as the boat, a 1992, and it has brand new tires. There are no repairs or maintenance needed to the trailer to the best of our knowledge.

What kind of canvass does it have? (Mooring cover, trailer cover, bimini top, etc.)? any rips or holes (again any pics would be great.)

We will send a pic of the boat with a cover, it is brand new this year.

Is it available for a water test? (if not engine run with hose)

I don't believe it will be available for a test, we recently started it in the yard to make sure it was running fine and the only time we had it out on the water it ran great. We priced it low to sell it quickly with the understanding that the buyer would be able to inspect it before buying but that at this time of year doing a water test would be more difficult and with my husband working out of town it makes it hard to arrange anything.

Was winterization done by you or a marina? What steps were taken in winterizing?

We had the winterization done by a local boat shop and had no issues this spring. It is not diffucult and I would recommend having it done at a shop as it is not that expensive.

The main thing that concerns me is the trailer age if it was taking care of it should be fine but if not at 16 years old it would be a major concern. the other thing is not being able to take it out for a test on the water but I would be able to fire up the engine. I also sent an email this morning asking why they are selling and I'm still waiting on that.

Can anyone else think of any questions that I would want to ask or things that I may not think of if I go to check it out I'll probably check the compression on motors and all the normal stuff that would be checked out. I'm also not very familiar with sunbird so if anyone has any info that would be great (are there any problems that are known to be had.)

Info from NADA

Boats and Personal Watercraft

1992 SUNBIRD BOAT CO

CORSAIR 175(**)

Stern Drive Power Boat

Length: 17'

Model Name/Description: CORSAIR 175(**)

Boat Type: Stern Drive Power Boat

Hull Material: Fiberglass

Beam: 6' 11"

Engine: 1

130 HP

Gasoline

Net Weight: 1980

Base Price

Low $2,280 Avg. $2,550

It's listed as $1850 would an offer of $1500 be to low

Thanks to everyone in advnace

I just got the update on why they are selling and they are moving to a place that they will not have easy/close access to water.

which to me is the reason for a cheap price and another reason to be able to talk the price down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s the ago old question of something only being worth what someone else will pay.

It looks like it’s in good shape, looks can be deceiving.

Even in excellent shape, that is going to be tough boat to sell this time of year and you should be able to get a good deal on it.

Not being able to water test it would concern me though. Not necessarily that something is wrong with it, but I still think it needs to be water tested.

Maybe you could make it a contingency of the deal that you are allowed a couple hrs to water test it. If it doesn’t meet your expectations you can return it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would not worry about the trailer, especially since galv.

I would want to water test it myself. At least get the contact info on where it was winterized or tuned up and give them a call, though my guess is they may not remember it if just a quick winterization.

It looks nice, and really isn't that old in "boat years", but like dtro said, a boat that age is worth what someone will pay for it. You just don't want to have repairs right out of the chute...

Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would say a water test is a must for sure. I've been skunked on that before. Tell them you'll make a copy of your Drivers License and leave it with them or some other info that shows them where you live and you will sign paper saying you are testing it and will bring it back. I would never buy a boat without testing it in the water first.

Maybe have a mechanic check out the motor as well and check the hull very well. Make sure to check the bottom for wear or holes in it.

Darrin is right, it's hard to sell this time of year. They should work with you if you are serious about picking it up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with the other's sentiments. I would not be concerned about the trailer since it's galvanized. With respect to corrosion you're better off that it's galvanized than painted.

I would want to water test it as well. The low price makes me a bit leary about the mechanical end of things.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got the update on why they are selling and they are moving to a place that they will not have easy/close access to water.

which to me is the reason for a cheap price and another reason to be able to talk the price down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still talk them into a test drive first. Tell them you are willing to pull it to the water and back even if don't take it. YOu have to make sure that motor does good under a load and the boat doesn't leak. Will also let you know how all the electrical stuff is working.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hard to pass up a bargain, but you don't want to get burned either.

At the very least, can you get a mechanic to look it over? If so, what's the big deal of pulling it to the lake for a spin?

I didn't do that when I bought mine of hsolist. Ended up needing to rebuild the carbs due to lack of use. I could have gotten a better price if I would have known.

Good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The engine and drive absolutely need to be inspected and test run. Even with a test ride you really can't tell if there is problems with the drive. With the lower unit trimmed up take a look and feel of the bellows for a split. Open the drain on the lower unit to see if water comes out. Or better yet, take it to an I/O mechanic.

You can do an inspection of the hull. Look for cracks or soft spots. Open up anything(hatches and inspection covers) that will let you look under the deck. Open the engine cover. Is there any oil in the bilge? Is everything neat and wiring tidy?

Test the trim.

$1850 is a relatively cheap boat. Any repairs to the drive will make this not a cheap boat any longer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unless you are very familiar with the lake you plan to do the test drive, I would recommend they bring you to a lake they are familiar with (hopefully close by) and do it with you.

A lot of lakes are pretty low around here, not sure about where you are at. If you are not familiar with the lake, you do not want risk hitting something with the lower unit/prop during the test drive. It is not too uncommon that hazard spots are not marked with buoys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This boat is at the perfect age for floor rot, especially if it's the original floor. It's also one of the biggest reasons that you see boats priced cheap. Not suggesting that it has it, but we stay busy 12 months a year replacing floors in boats that seemed like a really good deal at the time. That sounds so negative, sorry. I just hate having to tell a customer that the boat they just bought is going to need a $1,000 dollar floor replacement. Take a thin phillips screwdriver or scratch awl along and poke it into the floor, especially at the back corners and between the consoles. (don't worry, it wont cause any damage to the carpet). If it feels solid, I'd schedule a test drive and get ready to own a boat. If it goes through, then at least you know before you've signed on the dotted line.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Check striker's page.  They have some of last years stuff onsale.
    • It's been awhile since I've had time to upload pictures. There has been a lot of progress made!  The siding is up and finished! The process was more difficult to manage with the bends and my lack of tape measure skill lol If i were to do the bends again I would make sure to order 2 sheets extra and order them at the length required to wrap the entire house. From the point on the nose all the way back to the middle of the rear wall. There ended up being vertical seams along the sides here, which in hind sight, isn't ideal.  One thing that i'm not sure I've noted is the bottom white trim. A lot of people use J- Channel on the bottom but you can order a trim called a step down. Which works awesome around the lower edges and doesn't fill up with ice and snow.  The trailer lights are all wired up and working. Seeing whats back behind these big trailers always drives me crazy so i bought the ones with reverse lights built in.  The maiden voyage was out into the parking lot and then back into the shop. It didn't fall apart so it was a success.  I took a few pictures of the bending process. It was a pretty simple setup. A big piece of angle aluminum secured between 2 - 2x4's with 2 clamps a bar and a big hammer worked really well. If you're going to do this make sure to add half of the rib height to whatever the measurement you're trying to hit is. And as i mentioned before, buy the length to wrap the house from the front point all the way to the middle of the rear wall.  We would clamp the bar down then hit it with the hammer to "break" the corrugations. Once they were broken it bent extremely easy.  We also got most of the lighting on the inside roughed in. I have 4 110 outlets and 2 USB plug ins for cell phone/misc charging. All of the lighting will run on 12V. I'm no engineer but, each of the lights in the picture draw 240mA so with them all on I'm thinking i'll get about 30 hours of run time on one battery. There will be 2 batteries for lighting and USB and a separate one for the heater so I should be ok for a weekend "off the grid". I'll have a generator as well to run the TV and other goodies which can charge the batteries as well.  I also picked up the material for the interior. Menard's is having their 11% sale until 10/21/17 and also a sale on their 5/16" Cedar tongue and groove. Between the two sales I got the price down to just under $1 per square foot. Apparently, they aren't stocking this specific Cedar anymore so I had to buy 3 different stores out of stock to get all that I needed. In the end I still didn't have enough to do the roof so i bought some Birch plywood to finish that part. I think a lighter ceiling will help the place feel a little bigger anyways. I got antsy last night and finished some of the cedar boards with Natural Finish Watco Danish Oil. It turned out to be the exact look I was going for. From what I've read i think finishing them all before installation is the way to go. Then once everything is up doing a quick coat of Danish to even everything out.  At this point i'm counting the Steps left to go instead of how many I have done! It's getting close to starting the fun part ( the interior). I'll keep everyone posted on the progress! 
    • My bad... How about this?   https://icefishingdeals.com/
    • Yea, I'm not sure when this project is gonna get evicted from the shop area that i'm using so we had to get it weather proof first. Ideally i think the interior first is a better approach. We ran into some issues wiring that would've been easier handling from the outside. 
    • They don't save cap space that is the whole point. The money is still spent. What it allows them to do is go OVER the cap during such time a player is on LTIR. It doesn't give them relief at all, it just allows them to go over the cap. We already have Coyle on LTIR so it wouldn't do any good to add Parise to that. That would mean two moves would have to happen when they are both healthy. The Wild could do that too, but what sense would that make because they would be forced to be compliant once Parise is healthy. Hossa is likely going to be LTIR all year. At this point I doubt Parise will be out that long. Russo did a very good writeup on it last night for TheAthletic. You can also read up on it on CapFriendly.
    • I'm on board with the others, sounds legal to me!  Best of luck hunting! Kettle
    • Was in Joes sporting goods last night and they had the 8" K drill for $219
    • Sounds good to me.
    • It should be as long as the wma butts up to the lake,
    • Great catch for that spot!  
  • Our Sponsors