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      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

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Ryan Becklund

Early goose and a new pup

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Hi all, I introduced my pup last night to feathers. I actually had a pheasant skin that I froze from last year and attached it to a bumper. She didn't care as long as she was retrieving it. I also had a goose that I saved from last year and I threw that out for her too but she would not pick it up. I am wondering if since she is only 8 months old that she is not big enough to carry a big goose around on dry land. Do you all intro geese to the dogs in the water first? I was thinking on getting in the boat and having her sit. Having someone else throw the goose and tell her to fetch and see what she does. Any thoughts?

Ryan

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seems like a couple of hurdles to attack separately.

First, jumping out of the boat. Work her often enough (even from a boat on the ground first) w/ bumpers out of your boat until she is comfortable.

Second, once she if retrieving well w/ bumpers, introduce feathers, then whole birds (small to medium sized). Once she has a real zip for the whole deal, then contemplate the big brute.

Keep in mind, this is a slow drawn out process.

During these sessions always leave her wanting more to keep her interest up. I liked short 10-20 minute sessions all determined by interest level of the pup. Don't spend the entire time dwelling on the retrieve.

Also work obience and enforce (religiously) the basic commands in the boat/blind. This instills good manners, which is vital to having a "good" retriever.

One other trick to pumping up your dogs drive is once you have it retieving well and holding steady, consider introducing it to another polished retriever. Make her hold while its handler runs a retrieve or two in front of her (perhaps building up to the goose), then give her a turn on her own and see if this revs her up.

My male GSP has tons of zip in him on the water and will grab a fiesty goose w/ gusto. My last GSP attempted to tussle w/ a winged Tundra Swan (we drew a permit in ND one year...) and got a bit of a beating even, but didn't get too phased.

BUT.... Neither one was reliable over ground to carry geese to me. They both would pick up, drop, stand on it, pick feathers, wag tail, etc. I can't say I ever lost a goose w/ my dogs along though, even the ones that dropped in the middle of the beans or corn. It just took us a LOT longer to find the pooch wagging the tail.

I do know the REAL solution to this problem is to Force-Fetch train the dogs. I never could drop the cash, spend the time, or convince the wife we had to give up "the baby" for several weeks.

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Thanks for the quick reply. I have been working with her in the boat. She is fine jumping out of the boat and retrieving bumpers. She has an extreme drive that I have seen in a female lab. I am going to work with her tonight in the water fetching a bumper with wings on it. Thanks for the advice.

Ryan

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I had my dog out last year goose hunting for the first time he was about 1.5 yrs old. He wouldn't retrieve overland the first time. Finally we took some geese over water and he picked them up and carried them overland like he had done it a million times after a successful water retrieve.

Although I believe that it is a sportsman's duty to make clean ethical and humane kills. I let my dog play with a wounded goose for a little while. I felt bad about doing it but I think it got him excited about it and he learned to retrieve a little faster then if I got them all on my own.

It takes time. Be patient. I was a little too hard on my dog the first time out. But gave him extra praise once he got it down.

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Quote:
I introduced my pup last night to feathers.

That's great. Has your dog been introduced to the gun yet. If not you may want to address that too before the hunt. Alot of big guns shooting at geese could cause huge problems if your pup isn't ready for it.

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Quote:
I introduced my pup last night to feathers.

That's great. Has your dog been introduced to the gun yet. If not you may want to address that too before the hunt. Alot of big guns shooting at geese could cause huge problems if your pup isn't ready for it.

Especially right over the top of your dog!!!! Be careful with that. Having 5 guns in the field during a pheasant hunt is one thing. Completely different story sitting in a blind or within 10 yards of one another.

One other thing, at 8 months old she is plenty big enough to drag the bird back to you. A full grown goose is tough enough for a full grown Lab to bring back completely proper. So don't let the fact that it is a goose scare you into thinking she can't do it.

GOOD LUCK!!!

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UPDATE: Hey guys, thanks alot for the advice. All tho I did end up taking her with anyways. I was totally amazed with her performance. I dumped the first in the water out in the decoys but she did not see it fall or splash down. I pointed it out and it flipped a wing. She saw it and I sent her out for it. She retrieved it without incident and right to my hand. It was awesome!!!!

She went on to retrieve 2 more over the next hour and always waited to be sent as well. I could not believe she stayed steady long enough for me to send her. She and I had a blast! Thanks again for all your replies and hope you all had as good a time as I did.

On one sad note....This was the first time in 10 years I did not bring my yellow lab with me. Was kind of weird. She is getting too old and stiff to swim anymore....really sucks.

Ryan

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
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