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JRedig

Twin Cities Gun Shops

5 posts in this topic

Hi Guys, first post on the waterfowl forum. I'm getting into shooting this fall with a friend and looking for advice on where to shop for a good deal on a good gun. Open to recommendations on shotguns, size, brand etc.

I've looked at Browning BPS, Remington 870's, etc. I grew up shooting an Ithaca Featherlight. (I think)

Oh, worth mentioning, i'm left handed so I need a lefty or bottom eject. I'd like to spend somewhere around $500. Or if anyone has any used items available, i'm interested.

Thanks

Jeff

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My best advice is shop around. You never know where a good deal will turn up. Had a friend call me from Gander to tell me about a good deal he found. It wasn't a ridiculous deal, but it saved him 1-2 hundred bucks, which is or isn't a lot to some, but I should mention it was an autoloader.

Small shops might have some used lefties in great shape, or the big name shops may carry some guns. You'll want to find a gun and shoot it quickly so you can get some time in with the gun before the season opens.

I think based on your budget, a BPS or an 870 is a GREAT choice. With so many of those models on the market you shouldn't have much trouble finding a lefty. Contact a small shop and they might call around and find one for you.

I sure wish I hunted with a leftie...helps cover more air from the blind when you can swing both ways smile

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Joe's is a good place to go and look. Most of the guys there are really good, but I have talked to a couple in recent years who couldn't answer a few questions on auto loader actions, so make sure you get a regular, not a new hire wink

Otherwise Gander in Forest Lake is good. Their gunsmiths have been helpful to me, and really nice. Lots of used guns there too. Not sure how far you want drive, but Reeds often has good deals, and all the shops/stores carry the same guns.

One thing I would do, if you get a wood stock, is to have them bring a pile of boxes out and pick the finsih you like the best. If you go synthetic (which is what I would do) then it doesn't matter, of course.

I am rightie, but I think I would get a BPS if a leftie. I am one of the few who have had problems with an 870 (Wingmaster even), but I still think there are the most reliable and either gun would be on my list. Good luck, and have fun shooting!

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Thanks guys! (Note from admin,please read forum policy before posting again, thank-you.) Called around today and am visiting a few places tomorrow.

Found a BPS 12 gauge for $250 shipped on a HSOforum, if that works out, i'll be done shopping before I even started.

I think I still want to find an Ithaca 37 20gauge though, gun my grandpa had, what I shot as a kid.

-Jeff

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Hey J, I had one of those model 37's also, I sure would like to have another I hunted eveything with that gun. Unfortunately it was stolen cry.

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

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      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

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      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

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      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
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