Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Jordyn Kaufer

How shallow?!

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I was just wonering how shallow you can catch walleyes in the fall when the water temp drops to around 60 degrees. I was also wondering how shallow you can find them now that the water temp has dropped to around 70ish degrees.

Thanks,

YFG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It really varies. During the frog run in mid October you'll find walleye as shallow as 6 inches of water. But certainly less than 3 feet is not uncommon in October even in lates without a good frog population nearby. Given the water temps your talking about you can still find eye routinely in less than 5 ft of water especially after dark.

Mid day in the fall it's not uncommon to find walleye staging in 40+ ft of water. So there you go from more than 40 feet to less than 1 foot and naywhere inbetween. On thing holds true though, where's there food there will be walleyes.

Good Luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pitching jigs or twitching floating crankbaits reeled slowly. These shallow fish are very aggressive for the most part so if you find them there they will usually bite.

We've seen them with their backs frequently poking out of the water. Do we find them that shallow often? No. But certainly in a foot or so at night in the fall is more common than most of us think. Late fall the shore anglers actually can have the advantage if they have access to good shoreline spots.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fall brings an interesting situation to the table, in lakes with deep expanses of water, a thermocline will develop during the summer months. This will essentially leave some of the deep water with little to no oxygen, forcing the walleyes to stay shallower than that. Once the lakes "turn over" in fall, the oxygen in dispersed throughout all depths. This means that the fish can go to depth in the lake that they please.

What Borch said about find the food and find the walleyes holds true at all times of year. In fall a good place to look on any lake is a shallow shoreline flat that has a quick drop into deep water. An area like this will allow you to pick off fish that are activly feeding on top in the shallow water, transitioning up the break, or loafing around out deep. Cast cranks to the flat, work a jig down the breakline, or lindy rig with a large minnow on the deep end.

Shallow water is always a good place to look at night in the fall, but during the day don't rule out any peice of good looking structure, no matter what the depth. If the forage is in 45' the walleyes will be there, if it is in 6" they will be there too.

I like the jig and minnow or stick baits as well in the fall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have seen walleye practically beach themselves chasing frogs, minnows, young carp, white bass, or whatever caught there eye in the fall.

Ultra shallow feeding in the fall usually happens at night, but not always. Windy conditions can concentrate forage and the walleye ride the chop taking advantage of the conditions and the topography to feed. The face of cattails with a 1-2' drop near. Inside corners, reels or sand bars, even rip-rap are prime ambush feeding areas for roaming walleye in the fall.

Soft bottom shallows or sand to gravel, try jigs with oversizes plastics pitched right up to the waters edge and worked out to match the contour. Swim shads excel here, 4" to 5" twister tails, even Tube jigs and 5" tubes. Shallow cranks like Bomber Long A's, Smitwhicks, Original floating raps, even rattle traps do well here.

Rip Rap, faces of dams, reefs that top out at 1'....shallow but fast breaking rocky areas. Shallow minnow baits swim shads, floating shad style cranks, Rattle Traps, and slip float rigs will do well here. Trolling tight to these long rocky rip rap shorelines often produce big fish with winds pushing into them. A plainer board ran tight to the rocks with 20' to 60' of line and a #13 or even a #14 floating Rapala at night is a proven producer.

Cranks cover water and locate fish quickest. Once you hone in on them, jigs may be the ticket, or casting and slow dragging live bait slip rigs from the shore outward to the boat.

Most if not all of these opportunity's are open to the shore angler as well. Very often the stealthy shore angler has the advantage in the fall. Casting parallel to the shoreline or quartering your retrieves to the structure is the ticket.

In high percentage areas in the fall, at night, wadders and a 7' spinning rod will out do a boat every time. That is a favorite of mine on lakes with rivers feeding into them. Highlight the areas with creeks, sloughs, and feeders and slip on the wadders, grab a short net, a smaller select tackle tote of cranks/jigs...and stalk the sumo's toe to toe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At my cabin I have either: a small hump topping out at 13' from 21', a small connecting river flowing in with a small flat from the mouth out to the drop off to 16', a very fast dropping point in to 32', or a couple sunken islands surrounded with heavy weeds from 12' up to the top in 1-2'. Where would you concentrate for fall eyes with this structure being your options? I have caught fish at all these places it the fall, but never really hammer them. Any ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fall water eyes coming up! I can't wait!

For some reason I got hooked on shallow water eyes from some guy...uggg, and well wow, it works.

I am not 'confident on the crank bait bite as stated yet, but I will attest to jigs cast upon shore lines in null feet of water.

Thanks TO! smile

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Walleyes call be found shallow all year long, usually early June will bring the first good solid shallow crank bite. Depending on the lake the shallow bite may be going already, or they may be using the shallow to feed and spending the days out deeper. Once water temps hit 60, look for the fish to be spending more and more time in shallow water.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was messing around on my dock with a 2" floating Rap firetiger last night at around 6:00pm. Nailed about a 1/2 dozen 10-13" walleye in 10-20" of water for the 30 minutes I was fishing. Not worth keeping but it was fun catching something other than Bass off the dock.

When the eye's are shallower (1-6ft) in stained water,I have had good luck with #5 Rapala rattlin raps in firetiger.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We are new to "rappin" but have really enjoyed it. One night during the August full moon we were fishing a local lake and there were a lot of boats out but not much happening. most boats were fishing about 10 fow. We went into 4 feet and that was magical. We caught about 25 eyes in about 20 minutes.

Made us understand that you really need to check all depths.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • I would fur it out another inch, then spray foam and finish to the furring strips.  No vapor barrier needed at that point.
    • Use 1x2 (actually 3/4"x1 1/2") PVC trim boards for firring strips on the face of studs. The PVC won't absorb any moisture and works well as a thermo break from the aluminum studs. They can be found at any of the big box lumber stores.
    • Moisture is likely condensing on the metal studs and being transferred to the paneling. Furring strips will probably be the best bet with metal studs. You can run them horizontal or vertical and then just attach the paneling to that. I personally wouldn't use a vapor barrier. Some guys do though. 
    • I have a 6.5x14 Ultra Shack. I'm guessing was built early 2000s. Had to tear apart interior walls due to moisture build up. Steel frame, with aluminum 1.5x1.5 or 1"x1" tube studs. Previously insulated with pink board foam between studs, with a thin quarter inch thick foam pad glued to the studs, then paneling glued over the top of it all. I'm thinking the issue was no vapor barrier? I have it all torn apart down to the studs. Wondering how I should finish it, use a vapor barrier such as poly? Or no vapor barrier? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!  -Nate
    • Check striker's page.  They have some of last years stuff onsale.
    • It's been awhile since I've had time to upload pictures. There has been a lot of progress made!  The siding is up and finished! The process was more difficult to manage with the bends and my lack of tape measure skill lol If i were to do the bends again I would make sure to order 2 sheets extra and order them at the length required to wrap the entire house. From the point on the nose all the way back to the middle of the rear wall. There ended up being vertical seams along the sides here, which in hind sight, isn't ideal.  One thing that i'm not sure I've noted is the bottom white trim. A lot of people use J- Channel on the bottom but you can order a trim called a step down. Which works awesome around the lower edges and doesn't fill up with ice and snow.  The trailer lights are all wired up and working. Seeing whats back behind these big trailers always drives me crazy so i bought the ones with reverse lights built in.  The maiden voyage was out into the parking lot and then back into the shop. It didn't fall apart so it was a success.  I took a few pictures of the bending process. It was a pretty simple setup. A big piece of angle aluminum secured between 2 - 2x4's with 2 clamps a bar and a big hammer worked really well. If you're going to do this make sure to add half of the rib height to whatever the measurement you're trying to hit is. And as i mentioned before, buy the length to wrap the house from the front point all the way to the middle of the rear wall.  We would clamp the bar down then hit it with the hammer to "break" the corrugations. Once they were broken it bent extremely easy.  We also got most of the lighting on the inside roughed in. I have 4 110 outlets and 2 USB plug ins for cell phone/misc charging. All of the lighting will run on 12V. I'm no engineer but, each of the lights in the picture draw 240mA so with them all on I'm thinking i'll get about 30 hours of run time on one battery. There will be 2 batteries for lighting and USB and a separate one for the heater so I should be ok for a weekend "off the grid". I'll have a generator as well to run the TV and other goodies which can charge the batteries as well.  I also picked up the material for the interior. Menard's is having their 11% sale until 10/21/17 and also a sale on their 5/16" Cedar tongue and groove. Between the two sales I got the price down to just under $1 per square foot. Apparently, they aren't stocking this specific Cedar anymore so I had to buy 3 different stores out of stock to get all that I needed. In the end I still didn't have enough to do the roof so i bought some Birch plywood to finish that part. I think a lighter ceiling will help the place feel a little bigger anyways. I got antsy last night and finished some of the cedar boards with Natural Finish Watco Danish Oil. It turned out to be the exact look I was going for. From what I've read i think finishing them all before installation is the way to go. Then once everything is up doing a quick coat of Danish to even everything out.  At this point i'm counting the Steps left to go instead of how many I have done! It's getting close to starting the fun part ( the interior). I'll keep everyone posted on the progress! 
    • My bad... How about this?   https://icefishingdeals.com/
    • Yea, I'm not sure when this project is gonna get evicted from the shop area that i'm using so we had to get it weather proof first. Ideally i think the interior first is a better approach. We ran into some issues wiring that would've been easier handling from the outside. 
    • They don't save cap space that is the whole point. The money is still spent. What it allows them to do is go OVER the cap during such time a player is on LTIR. It doesn't give them relief at all, it just allows them to go over the cap. We already have Coyle on LTIR so it wouldn't do any good to add Parise to that. That would mean two moves would have to happen when they are both healthy. The Wild could do that too, but what sense would that make because they would be forced to be compliant once Parise is healthy. Hossa is likely going to be LTIR all year. At this point I doubt Parise will be out that long. Russo did a very good writeup on it last night for TheAthletic. You can also read up on it on CapFriendly.
    • I'm on board with the others, sounds legal to me!  Best of luck hunting! Kettle
  • Our Sponsors