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Sorgy

SS prop selection

11 posts in this topic

I am running a 2002 Mr Pike 17 w/ Yamaha F115

My problem is I have already fixed my Aluminum prop twice and I am looking to upgrade to a Stainless Steel Prop.

Currently I have a stock Yamaha Aluminum 13X19 K prop and I am running at 5900 rpm at WOT.

Which prop would be recommended. I don't know what mounting hole my motor is mounted in right now. I do get cavitation when I make turns while running at 80% throttle.

I do have a slight bend in one of the repaired blades but not much. I am only looking to drop RPM's by 200-300.

I e-mailed Jay @soderblooms quite a while ago with no response.

There has been lots of good information on this board and I am asking for it to be duplicated again. I tried a search and I was having trobles finding general info.

I decided to post my particular specs for recommendations.

Thanks Again

Steve

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I have a 1999 Lund Angler SS with a Yamaha F100 on it. The stock prop is a 13 1/4 X 17 aluminum. It gives great hole shot, blows out in turns and little bow lift at WOT which is 6000-6100 rpms. I tried the same size Turbo 1 from Jay Soderbloom with the main objective better bow lift. The Turbo gave WOT at 5500-5600 rpms, 2 mph faster, stayed locked up in turns, a poorer hole shot and a very slight improvement in bow lift. Since the main objective was better bow lift I returned it. Jay was great to work with and had quick shipping. Don't email him call him. Everytime I did he answered the phone.

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I would try to get a hold of Soderbloom's again.. here's their HSOforum:

http://soderbloom.com/

That said, I would think a 13 X 18 prop would put you about where you want to be.

But, is the reason you want to switch to a stainless steel to protect the prop? Understand that if you do so any impacts you have that used to damage the prop are now transmitted directly to the lower unit, which is way more expensive to fix than a prop.

marine_man

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I dinged a rock by a boat landing the first fall I had the boat- one ding in one of the blades- tried to straighten it out and could see a crack in the blade.

Second time I had someone else in the boat trying to load it and they did not raise the motor. Just some bent up edges- enough to get it cleaned up.

Last fall while trimming it up in my dad's garage one of the repaired blades caught the edge of some wood and bent... Under water objects at running speed are not a problem.

I had a stainless prop on my old boat for 12 years without ever having to have it repaired. I took a file to a rough spot once to one of the blades but never bent a fin or took out a chunk of metal.

Thanks for the help guy's -- anyone know of a dealership in the North Metro are to try differnt props or around Lake Vermilion?

Steve

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I have basically the same boat and I do have a 115 yamaha 4 stroke and my Stainless of choice is a 13 by 18.

Call Jay Soderbloom at 218-644-3392 and he will hook ya up. He is very busy so you may have to try a few times and make sure to leave a message and tel him Northlander sent ya and he will get back to you asap.

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After calling 6 or 7 times over two days (Busy,Didn't get a Voicemail) and sending an e-mail with no response I gave up trying to contact Soderblooms.

I have an 01' 17 Mr. Pike w/ a 130hp Yamaha 2 Stroke. I've been running a 13 1/4X20 Perf 3Blade but just bought a 13 1/2X19 Pro series Prop to increase rpm some. If your dinging up aluminum props by hitting things a stainless prop may not be good for your gearcase. A stainless prop won't give like an aluminum prop will. A stainless prop will hold much better in the turns and allow more trim range without unloading the prop. A stainless prop like a Yamaha 13 1/4" x 18 Performance 3 Blade should work well for you. A 13 1/4X19 4Blade aluminum prop will hold better and reduce rpm by roughly 200rpm or so. I think though 5900rpm for a 115 4Stroke is good as its best to be up in the rpm range a bit especially for a hard pushing boat like the Mr. Pike.

May want to look at Solas for a prop. I have a Solas prop on my 25hp and its of better quality than the Yamaha Alum prop for quite a bit less $$$. I'd stay away from Michigan props, have had bad experiences with them regarding quality.

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Thanks again for the input.

Steve

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dkf

Im sorry our phones have really been busy the last few days.

Call me on my personal phone

Jay

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dkf

Im sorry our phones have really been busy the last few days.

Call me on my personal phone

Jay

It was early last month that I tried to contact you. I did the old school trial and error to find the prop and got the one I needed. An expensive proposition but I was impatient. I will keep your number for next time I need a prop. Thanks.

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So at least tel us what you wound up finding that worked for you. Lots of prop questions get answered here by guys just like you and your experiences.

Ill guess a 13 X 18?

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The prop I actually had a question for Jay about a prop was for my WC-16 with 25hp Yami. Loaded within 200bs or so under max. Ended up with a Solas Amita3 Alum 9.9X10, 24.2mph GPS 6060max rpm@WOT. Props that didn't work were a Solas Amita 3 9.9x9 6350rpm 18mph. Solas 10x10 4blade stainless 5250rpm 20mph. Stock 9 7/8x11 1/4 Yami prop 5470rpm 24mph (Poor holeshot) RPM was taken with a sendech tach.

Props on the 17 Mr.Pike 130 Yami 2-Stroke about 900+ people and gear.

13 1/4 X 21 3Blade Alum 42mph max around 5400rpm unloaded a lot in turns overall poor holding.

13 1/4 x 21 Rapture 3Blade SS 43mph max around 5300rpm Lots of lift, great holding decent holeshot. Poor quality, casting runout severe.

13 1/4 x 20 Yami Performance 3 Blade SS 45mph around 5400rpm, low lift compared to Rapture, grat holding, good holeshot, great quality, great acceleration. Want more lift.

Just got, will test out tomorrow.

13 1/2 x 19 Yamaha 3-Blade Pro Series SS. Supposed to have more lift and the blade design is quite different thaan the Perf 3 Blade. Will test and update later, I think this will be the prop.

The Mr. Pike rpms were with a normal ammount of trim. The aluminum would unload if trimmed up a little past 3/4 on the gauge. The Stainless props would darn near go to tilt without unloading and the rpm could be brought up past stated rpms, however there isn't a point as mph start to fall off. Thus rpms listed were at around optimal trim for max mph.

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