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      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

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bassNspear

Best Power Drill

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I just want to get some peoples opinion on what he best power drill is on the market right now. I need to get some new stuff, and not really sure what im going to get yet.

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I just want to get some peoples opinion on what he best power drill is on the market right now. I need to get some new stuff, and not really sure what im going to get yet.

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Any criteria on that drill? I really like the Festool drills. I have a TDD12 (a few years old) with the different chucks and it's a great improvement over the two Dewalts that it replaced. I also like the Metabo drills too.

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not sure on how to spell the name but they make pretty cheap beer in wiscosin. or go with the heavy wieght dewalt with three speeds. I however just use a two speed craftsman and it does just fine.

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Definitely recommend going cordless with no less than 18v. I would consider a combo tool package cause you can save a lot over buying seperately.

I broke down a 3 years ago and bought the 5 piece 18v set from DEWALT (drill, reciprocating saw, circular saw, light, storage case & 2 batteries). Best tool purchase I've made. There pretty spendy, but well worth it over.

It is pretty rare that I feel I am compromising over a corded tool. Lots of power, runs very long on a charge, excellent design and has been very reliable after 3 years of use. The batteries show no signs of losing chargability.

As a bonus, the drill has a hammer drill mode for drilling concrete. And it came with a mail in offer to get a 5th tool of your choice for free. I went with the 2 gallon wet/dry vacuum (instead of the scrolling saw, sander, etc.). Highly recommend this little vac to anyone that lives on a lake. It can run corded or w/ 18v battery. Best think for blowing up large tubes/floaties in seconds. If you ever tried doing this with a small air compressor, you will love it. Don't have power at the lake so use it with the 18v to vacuum out the boats at the dock, or suck out any water that the bilge can't get to.

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One other comment. If you go cordless, take into consideration the other cordless tools you can use with the same batteries. All the tools mentioned in my post use the same batteries. Would be a hassel maintaining multiple types of batteries and chargers. For the 5 tools I have, I only have 2 batteries and one charger and works just fine. Makes replacing cheaper too.

My father in law has a Ridgid cordless set. Seems pretty good too, I think it was a bit cheeper in cost, and I think it had a longer warrenty. One nice feature of the rigid is the dual charger to charge two batteries at the same time, and I think it recharged very fast.

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I would recommend a DeWalt or Milwaukee, but I have a Mikita due to financial contraints and have been very happy with that

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You also want to think about how you're going to use it. The 18V DeWalt is an awesome drill, along with the rest of the set, but I wouldn't call it small or lightweight either. If you're going to be using it overhead or while on a ladder a lot, something smaller might fit you better.

I've used the DeWalt 18V extensively, and I've also owned a Ridgid 14.4V for four years. If either of these fit your usage, I would certainly recommend either one.

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Festool, Metabo, Panasonic for Cordless. Milwauke, Makita for corded. When I use my Festool I tend to use it all day long in tight quarters and goofy postitions so great ergonomics and efficient use of power (i.e. 12v or 15v that can out torque an 18v Dewalt) are more important than brute force. Slugging an 18v or 24v all day can be an unneeded pain. What do you plan on doing? Also, some of the fairly cheap cordless impact drills can be very usefull. Nice to throw into the truck too.

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Panasonic makes some nice cordless tools. We use em on commercial construction jobs and they're used by many trades. Hold up well with no major issues. Dewalts seem too big and awkward to me. Metabo also makes quality tools.

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Litheum batteries are superior, light and powerful, can hold charge forever...I have the dewalt and really like my budies makita

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I've got a Makita 18v Litheum Ion drill and I love it, very lightweight and plenty of power. I wish I would have ponied up the extra 80 bucks and got the impact drill combo....

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If you don't need portability, corded is the best way to go. I would go DeWalt corded. Cordless would be Makita.

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PANASONIC..... The only way to go. We use Panasonic drills, saws, recip.saws, impacts, all of that good stuff. I'm the guy that fixes them, Dewalt doesn't compare to Panasonic. Easily fixable when the motor, switch, clutch etc. goes bad. Parts are easy to get and reasonable. The impact drivers that they make are unbeleivable. Panasonic is a great tool, well worth the investment.

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I just got my first cordless drill a couple weeks ago an I stole a Milwakee Hammer Drill and Impact from Home Depot for 220 bucks!

Heres the drill:

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_27_40028_-1_735044_192143_192137

Heres the impact that came with it for FREE:

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_27_40028_-1_743716_192145_192137

So far with what I've done with them they work awesome. The Impact is awesome I've never used one before. When I got them home I was a little mad/jealus to see that Milwaukee has a new set up out. I also got two batterys and a half hour charger in the kit. Then I went to Fleet-Farm and they had a nice milwaukee kit bit kit to go with it.

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I have the older Milwaukee set. It is the 18 volt, but not the newer lithium. Have had it and used them in my line of work. Have dropped the drill on concrete from one story and dropped it off a ladder up 15 feet....it still works great. On one of the batteries the soldering let loose inside, but was able to fix it. 4 batteries, saw, drill, impact, sawzall, worklight, and a 3 bay charger. After about 4 years of heavy use, they still all work, although the batteries need a fresh charge right before use now. They seem to be finally getting a bit weak. I will be looking into the newest 18 volt or 28volt soon, when they come out.

I guess the M18 is already out.

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I've been looking for a new cordless drill to replace a Skil. (BTW, don't ever waste your money on one of those.) According to consumer reports, Panasonic gets the nod over all the others. Second on the list is the Makita.

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My dad and myself have the Ridgid's and they have been great cordless drills. It will give you a full battery charge in roughly 20 mins.. I have a 12 volt and the oldman has a 18 volt. The only thing I don't like about the 18 is that it's heavy. My 12 volt can do 95% of the work the 18 volt can. I would buy another in heart beat.

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Not sure what the Nano is but we have Dewalts at work. They really take a beating and keep on working. I went with the advice of Consumer Reports and just ordered a Panasonic from Northern Tools. I'll let you know what I think of it in a week or two.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
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