Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
dougr1969

Starting Battery

Recommended Posts

All,

I have a quick question about my starting battery. I have gone through 3 of them this summer alone. These were all $60.00 marine starting batteries from Wally World but is that normal? Am I suppose to charge my starting battery? I thought the alternator in my engine kept the starting battery charged. I have a 1997 16ft Lung Angler SS with a '97 Mercury. Can someone please give me some suggestions on why this might be happening. I have looked at what I believe to be the obvious (leaving the radio on/ lowrance 330c) Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same motor and had the same problem once. I hope you kept the batteries as i bet they are just fine. There is a part on the motor that controls the charging system and i bet that is what is bad. I cant remember the name of it-- maybe rectifier??? anyways it is an inexpensive fix. I almost guaranteee you that is what it is. sometimes they get blown if you charge the battery without disconnecting from da motor. good luck and dont throw the batteries

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

get a battery charger and hook it up and they all probably are OK. You should be able to get a decent charger for $50 or so, much less than what it will cost to repair the electrical problems with your motor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you both for your replies.

Deadminnowcather- I will place a call and ask around about the "rectifier". Thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This happened to me once. I reversed the polarity of the starting battery and that almost always fries the voltage rectifier. You can tell this has happened by watching your battery voltage during running (should be 13-14V once underway with a good battery). I use my depth finder display to tell me voltage. The other way you can tell is if your tachometer is not working. Apparently the two are tied together.

As for the fix, a new rectifier for my '84 Evinrude 90 was under $40. Replaced it myself and I'm no boat mechanic by any means. You definitely want to fix it, rather than continually manually charging your battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I algree with solbes, get if fixed or fix it yourself. Nothing worse that hauling batteries in and out of the boat. Not to mention getting stuck on the lake with no battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would measure the voltage, using a mulitimeter or the display on your locator before you start the motor, then start the motor and run the throttle past half - does the voltage rise? If it doesn't then it sounds like your rectifier is very likely out, as could be your stator - you'll want to check that out before replacing the rectifier. If the stator is bad it will take the rectifier with it.

If your voltage does rise you've eliminated the expensive repair.

Do you have the power for your 330 on a switched circuit? If not the gps reciever will continue to draw power, even though the locator is off. Overtime this will drain the battery. How long does it take to drain the battery?

Oh, and buy a 12V charger and charge those 2 other batteries up - there's nothing wrong with them, they're just low on charge.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't know much about the mechanics on boats/motors. But I installed a new radio replacing an old one on my pontoon. After putting the new one in I noticed that my battery would go dead sitting on the lift.

My old radio had only one power lead to it and my new one has two (one for ignition, other to the battery). I guessed and put both new wires to the battery figuring that would be fine as long as I powered my radio off ... wrong. Went back and rewired by piggybacked my radio ignition lead to a panel switch also used by my fish locator ... haven't had a problem since.

Interesting to hear Solbes' comment on effects on the tachometer when the rectifier is bad. My tach for the most part has not been working, except every once in a while it kicks in and starts working until I shut the engine off again (also happens with the speedometer). Does this sound like symtoms of a bad rectifier? Someone mentioned that it may have to do with a bad/loose groud somewhere or bad tach. I can start a new thread if necesary - but if anyone has suggestion on the problem, or how to find a bad ground please let me know. Finding the ground problem is scary since there is a ton of wiring under the console with no wiring diagram to guide me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A radio will also pull the battery down, but that usually takes longer than the GPS alone - it pulls power to keep the clock and your presets stored, so good addition.

With respect to your tach working sometimes - I'd say it sounds more like a loose connection problem than a rectifier - they almost always work or don't work, nothing in between.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick feedback MM. There are a ton of wires - any suggestions on where to start or focus the efforts on? Is there any wires in the motor I should be checking or just under the console?

I am hoping it is not a cracked wire, intermittent short - I am guessing that would make it trickier to pin point.

Sorry again for taking this off topic. I will create a separate topic if I need to post more on this problem. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... sometimes they get blown if you charge the battery without disconnecting from da motor. good luck and dont throw the batteries

Interesting - I had always assumed you could keep your starter battery hooked up to the motor if you ever had to to put a charger on it. Does this problem only occur if your charger does not automatically go into trickle charge mode? Also does the risk of blowing the rectifier with a battery charger only apply to an outboard motor, or does it also apply to I/O & automobile motors?

When I charge my deep cycle battery (portable general purpose not onboard marine charger), I keep all my electronics hooked up to the battery (locator, radio, lights, etc). Is it okay to keep them all hooked up while charging?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

any suggestions on where to start or focus the efforts on?

I would wait until it does it again (doesn't work), then pull the dash panel off and get a test light or multimeter and verify that the ground is good to the tach, and where the tach ground comes from, then chase it back to the motor.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... sometimes they get blown if you charge the battery without disconnecting from da motor. good luck and dont throw the batteries

I have never heard of this - not to say that it's not possible, but not a frequent occurence - lots and lots of people have on board chargers that charge the starting battery as well with their charger without issues.... if you connect the charger backwards and then turn the charger on I'd believe it'd smoke the rectifier though.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

MM ... If you are ever in the Twin Cities area, let me know. With the all the "free" very helpful advice I have recieved from you directly/indirectly I owe you at least a few beers.

Same goes for the other boat/auto mechanics on this site that are willing to share their expertise with your fellow fishermen. I'm sure you and the others have saved countless $100-1000 of dollars by empowering us with knowledge to fix it ourselves or avoid costly extra charges at the shops.

You guys are AWESOME!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All,

I second that 100%!

MM,

You bring up a good point. How can i find out if my 330 is on a switched circuit?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Make sure all your switches are off and see if it will power up, including the GPS module. If it doesn't you're on a switched circuit. If it does it's time to re-wire the unit so it is on a switched circuit. Does your boat have any ACC switches?

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought and installed one of those on-board chargers from Fleet Farm, it is the best investment I ever did, about $80. Get home, plug it in, and the batteries are all charged for the next time going out. Anyone else use these?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Absolutely... on board chargers are the way to go in my opinion - a bit expensive, but well worth it when it comes to reducing hassle.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Adding a 4th wouldn't do much IMO. The map screen is already too small to be useful when screen is split in 3. I added a Helix 7 G2N to use as a map screen. Networked with other 2 units
    • I could always go and spend more money on an additional unit but some of it is like Floyd said. I have a hard enough time watching one screen. I have the app on my phone. I think that lowrance has the ability to split the screen into 4. I just can't believe I'm the only person who would like to see this but maybe I am. It may not be as big a deal once I get more familiar with the unit. Right now I like to look at all the screens to help discern what it is im seeing on the screen.  I appreciate the input!     
    • Males were on the beds last night on a lake here in the metro. Not my deal, so I let 'em be. Which means I didn't catch much at all compared to last week.   Oh well, be a couple weeks before the summer patterns start happening. Already a hint of cottonwood floating on the water though. *booooo*
    • I would agree with Purple.   Just add an inexpensive unit of your choice for the maps.   You could even use a cheap tablet with the navionics app on it for the mapping, if money was an issue.     You can buy a 7 inch generic (RCA) tablet for around 50 bucks.    A few bucks more gets a holder.    
    • I would just buy a couple different boxes and pattern them with all of the chokes and see what shoots and patterns the best.   Depending on your hunting style a more open choke if the birds will be closer. I will normally have the tighter choke as the way I hunt the birds will be farther away but I also shoot an O/U and tend to let the birds get out a ways before I shoot. So an IC/MOD may be a good choice also. But like I said I would pattern the gun with each and different loads just to get a feel for it and whats best for her confidence.   I shoot steel all the time and I tend to shoot 4 shot and late season even 2 shot to deal with late season hearty winter birds.    Welcome to HSO!
    • It might be better to buy a small second unit and link them.    My guess is what you want is not something enough people want to justify implementing.   Personally I have a hard enough time watching a bobber.
    • Welcome to the Forum.  What brand gun is it? Would help to pick choke tubes out.  Size 6 shot should do the trick, but I'm sure more folks will chime in here. 
    • I upgraded my electronics this year to a Humminbird Helix 10. I love it so far with the exception of not being able to split the screen into 4 separate screens. The max that you can do is 3. I would really like to be able to have the map, sonar, down imaging, and side imaging on the screen at the same time while trolling. I emailed tech support and they said it's not something that is an option at this time. Right now when I'm fishing I switch back and forth between map, sonar, and DI and sonar, DI, and SI. Is there anyone else that thinks this should be an option? I don't know see why you can't customize the screen to show whichever features you prefer instead of only using the preloaded options that Humminbird decided on. I have thought about emailing the company weekly asking if they have that ability yet but wanted to see if anyone else thinks it should be an option. 
    • I just purchased a used 20 gauge for my 14 year old daughter. I hunt mostly state land for pheasants. It is a 2 3/4 auto with interchangeable chokes. What size steel shot and choke tube would you recomend for her?
    • I just got back from a work trip to MI. I could not believe the difference in ground cover. We traveled all the way from Dearborn back to Bemidji heading through the U.P.  Most of MI had very little ground cover but WI was flush, green everywhere! I only got to check a few spots at rest areas but I never saw a thing. The ground was dry at most spots on the way home. I'm gonna go hit my spot tomorrow, hopefully it hasn't been picked yet!