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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
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Fishin Dan

Which Locator?

Question

I just recently bought a new boat but need to put a locator on the front and the counsol. The front isnt as much of a priority as the one on the counsol. I would like one with color and a gps. I figure i could afford about 700 at most. So i was wondering which locator you guys would recomend? I was leaning towards Lowrance. Any thoughts or opinions on the Lowrances? Thanks for any help

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Fishin Dan,

Do a search in the Muskie Forum, saw you in there today (cool!) on Lowrance and you'll find a post about some of the issues that new Lowrance models have been experiencing. It'll be good info to check into before making a purchase.

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lowrances have some bugs in the units with the internal antenna if you stay away from those units you are good to go. what you wanna look at is how mush power the unit is transmitting I use a x135 and it has 4000 watts and I can usually find everything I am looking for with it

good luck on your search

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I'll second the notion on the X-135. It is a black & white LCD display (5"), but it works real well and gives good detail. I also have a color (5" display as well) LMS-332c... this thing has been nothing but trouble lately. I'm on my third one now just this year... hopefully this one will work. At least the customer service over at Lowrance has been treating me well during this ordeal... they got at least that much going for them.

-Gregg B.

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A salesman at the big C told me there have been a few problems with the 27's too. I have had problems with my 3 yr old 334, but hopefully it has been resolved. Has worked flawlessly all summer. Supposedly the 520's replaced the 334's and all their quirks. I like the Lowrances screen better, but know very little else about the 'birds.

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I have been running the 525C dual freq, with the external ant for over a year now and no problems. The color is great, the Lake chip in there with awsome structure. The GPS has worked flawlessly. It has dual frequency so you can even watch your down rigger balls if you use those. It has everthing I need. And you would still have enough left over to by the new '08 chip.

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I have the 522c and love it. Only problem is it sometimes looses bottom in shallow water, but other than that it's been great.

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Fishin Dan - if you want to get in touch with me I can give you some options that will keep you around your $700 mark, even for both units. Send me an email at info@profishingsupply.com and we can go through it in more detail.

The Lowrance 520c (external antenna) or Lowrance 522c (internal antenna) that have been mentioned already are great units. And there's a $50 rebate from Lowrance on these that goes until the end of August.

Another option that will probbly get you everything you're looking for and save you some money is going with Eagle units. I think they're a great value, and they have the advantage of being able to use LakeMaster or Navionics map chips.

Humminbird is another option we can talk about too, they're good units but you can't use LakeMaster with them which is a major drawback for some people.

Let me know if I can help. Thanks.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
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